Drilling holes in strut tower- structurally sound?
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Drilling holes in strut tower- structurally sound?
I've decided that the easiest way to mount the battery securely in my car is to use steel angle rods, the ones with the holes running their full length, and to simply cut and bolt together a tray that I can secure the battery to. The only option I have for mounting the tray securely is to drill two approx. 1/4" holes in the base of the strut tower where it meets the frame rail and to run bolts/nuts through them. They'd be about six inches apart and maybe 15" down from the actual strut mounting point. Would doing this affect the structural integrity of the strut tower in any significant way? I don't think it would, but I only know how the suspension bolts together, not the physics of it and where the forces are transmitted.
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Originally Posted by Mars_302
why not do a rear mount?
Nobody has gasped in horror at the idea of drilling holes in the strut tower, so I'm just going to go ahead and do it.
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I wouldnt worry about holes unless you break out a hole saw and put gapping holes in the tower.
And with rear mount batteries you are supposed to buy a sealed box with a vent tube type kit for it to be legal for most sanctioning bodies.
And with rear mount batteries you are supposed to buy a sealed box with a vent tube type kit for it to be legal for most sanctioning bodies.
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Oh, yeah. My kit from Summit came with this ridiculous marine battery box that was two times the size of my battery and wouldn't fit in the corner of the trunk, so it had to sit in the middle of the trunk. It wasn't even a proper sealed box with vent tube. Obviously, I relegated that thing to canoe battery duty but then the matter of acid and acid vapor came to my attention and forced a bit of baking soda and repainting work.
I really want to get this thing out to an auto-x and a bit of angle bracket is a lot more in line with my meager budget than a proper rear mount, even though I know that's the better way. I just got my FD wheels back from Transwheel so it's the battery deal and a brake bleed and I'm all set to run.
I really want to get this thing out to an auto-x and a bit of angle bracket is a lot more in line with my meager budget than a proper rear mount, even though I know that's the better way. I just got my FD wheels back from Transwheel so it's the battery deal and a brake bleed and I'm all set to run.
is doing your girlfriend
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Look at the suppports of an airplane wing, they all have holes in them. sheet metal with holes is actually stronger. If a crack develops it will run to a hole and stop there.
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