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We share today with you the best durable method to repair plastic! Thanks to this method, I have litterally repaired dozen of objects that would have otherwise landed in the trash because gluing them was not strong enough: tools, auto parts, containers, handles, camera gear... ! And the best part, it is: - Super easy - Requires little skill - Requires little time too! So think about it next time when something breaks in or around the house! You can probably fix it!

Note: if you find the finish a little rough, make sure the copper wires are well embedded into the plastic, then give it a little sanding for a smoother finish Also, this was not shown in the video, but to make an even stronger repair, I inserted copper wire repairs on both sides of the scissors (the video showing only repair on one side) ► YOU WILL NEED - Copper wires - Soldering iron - Super glue

► DISCLAIMER Always make sure you operate in a safe and secure manner. For this project this means, do not put the soldering iron in your ear by inadvertance

HDPE= High Density PolyEthelene This will be a two part video experimenting with HDPE Plastics. The first part is learning how the material melts, the second video is how I made a part from the material. Part 2

In this video I melt HDPE milk jugs to get a block of plastic from which I need to make a pulley for an electric motor. Because I had no decent plywood and HDPE is easily available and great pulley material. ========== SAFETY: Don't do anything you see me do. Stay SAFE! Here's some things I do to make this safer, but do your own research. I ain't no chemist or doctor. - I only use HDPE, other plastics might give nastier fumes. - I don't try to guess if something is HDPE or not, I only use the things clearly marked. - I only use translucent HDPE, clear or colored one might have nasty aditives. - There are two types of HDPE, the one blown like the jugs and the one molded, like caps and buckets and such. - I only use HDPE from milk jugs, the one made in molds might have aditives to make it flow better. - I Keep it the right temperature and work in a well ventilated room. - I only do this rarely, constant exposure to fumes has risks. You... should not do this!

Worked in a Plastic injection molding plant for twenty years. High Density Polyethylene has a melting point of between 250-360 degrees F. Might want to be sure to be very careful with the melted form which will stick to skin,clothes,shoes and does not feel very good. Polyethylene can almost become liquid at around 450 to 475 degrees and does not come off of anything very easily. We melted Plastics in an long metal barrel. This barrel had a screw inside it with the incline of the threads tapered so as to increase the pressure put on the plastic which would help it to melt as it went from the feed throat to the front of the screw.

The outside of the barrel also had sections that were heated by heater bands. The screw was turned by a hydraulic vane motor. At the tip of the screw was a check valve. Plastic would go past the check valve as the screw retracted once the shot size was made the machine would push the screw forward which closed the check valve on the tip and forced the plastic into the mold through a sprue hole in the mold. So basically when the plastic is shot into the mold under pressure it is in a semi liquid state.

The molds are temperature controlled via a machine called a thermolator which would heat certain parts of the mold while cool water was also used on other parts of the mold to help the part to become solid quicker. We made plastic parts for Whirlpool refrigerators and other whirlpool products.

We also used PVC, CPVC, Polycarbonate, Styrene, Acetal Delrin, and many other plastics, each having different melt points and specs. I worked on all the machinery and kept 52 presses running the best I could along with about three other maintenance men. And one last thing we used grinders to take bad parts back down to pellet form which we loaded into a large hopper above the feed throat.

I work in a plastics molding factory. Make all kinds of stuff....maybe even that bottle. All plastics have melt point. That bottle is around 335 degrees to start melting. We run our plastics at 370-390 degrees, it flows better that way.Having a cooled form will help it take the shape quickly too. just a tip.