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3800 V6 Brake Lines

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Old 10-12-2007, 03:11 PM
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Default 3800 V6 Brake Lines

Hello. I am working on my work van, a '93 Pontiac Trans Sport SE (3.8L V6). It has been sitting for a while, and the brake fluid has gone down tremendously. I just added more, and when I tried to pump the brakes back into a working state, nothing happened (stayed loose). I plan on bleeding the system in the morning, but can anyone give me any advice as to if it could be an electrical problem at all? I see some type of solenoid of some sort next to the master cylinder, and a ABS relay, is there any way any of this could have shorted out? I just recently fixed a problem with the starter (the battery was losing its charge caused by a short in the wiring for the starter. whoever worked on this before me did a horrible job of wiring - most likely just a bad case of ignorance). Well any advice is appreciated, like I said I will bleed it in the morning.

Thanks in advance


Edit: Also if it makes any difference, the brake light is on.

Last edited by psychx; 10-12-2007 at 03:16 PM.
Old 10-12-2007, 10:43 PM
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chances are your wheel cylinders are shot and are leaking. You will probably need to replace those, the pads maybe too if they got covered in fluid, and bleed the system. Might as well the flush the system.
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Old 10-13-2007, 01:48 PM
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Alright well I'm guessing the wheel cylinders are fine, because I checked for any leakage. I have been bleeding the brakes, but have only got as far as the right rear, and left rear. As soon as I started the right front, I realized I can't get the bleeder bolt off.

Does it make a difference if I didn't have the tube that I was using submerged in brake fluid? Because I just had it go into a water bottle, without submerging it. I kept the brake pressed down while tightening the bleeder bolt again.

Also, does it matter how far I press the brake down? ie: Should it be pressed all the way to the floor? (This is what I did)

And after working on the rear brakes, my brake light went OFF but still no pressure in the pedal.
Old 10-13-2007, 02:42 PM
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Also do you think I will need that ABS scanning tool to work on the front calipers? or any other equipment like that?
Old 10-13-2007, 06:17 PM
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You should be able to bleed the brakes manually.. start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest. If you cant get the bleeder out, you will need a caliper or a wheel cylinder to fix the problem, because if the master cylinder was dry, then so is everything else, full of air. Once you get the brakes bled out, then make sure you have no leaks, because 9 times out of 10 youll need to have good solid brake pressure before you find a slow leak. If you see nothing leaking, take the two bolts off the master cylinder that hold it onto the booster, and check to see if the master was leaking internally, if this is the case, the booster will have fluid in it, and the back of the master cylinder will also have fluid around it, both these parts should be dry. The brake fluid will never drop level on its own with out brake wear. I guess you are bleeding on your own? if you are make sure that both hoses are in the fluid, otherwise you will pick up air. and yes to the floor at least 3 times.
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Old 10-13-2007, 06:18 PM
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from the sounds of it, you may need a master cylinder check that first, especially since nothing is pumping up.
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Old 10-14-2007, 09:53 AM
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Ok, true. I will check the master cylinder. I guess I will redo the rear brakes, I didn't have them submerged in fluid. It didn't seem as if air could get in (unbolted, pressed brake down, nasty fluid came out, pumped it a few more times until the good/clear fluid came out, then held the brake down and bolted it tight again.) but I guess it is possible. Yesterday I put something on the bleeder to help take it off more easily today. I was actually unlocking the socket wrench just from the torque being applied to the bolt. Hopefully the master cylinder is fine and I just have to simply re-do the bleed.

Thank you for all help and I will reply back here when I am done.




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