Looking to start out? Read Me!!

[JUG-LUDE]

Since there have been so many posts about which bike to start out on I figured I would just make this!

First there is the Kawasaki Ninja 500ex. Great begginer bike and you can find them for really cheap.

Then there is the Yamaha Fzr 600. Also a great begginer bike and cheap.

Next is the Suzuki Katana 600. I think this is the best bike to start out with. It's a little heavy but it has good power and you can find them for pretty cheap too.

There are a couple other bikes like the Suzuki SV 650, Honda CBR 600 f2's and f3's that make awesome starter bikes! You should look to spend around $3500 or less!!!! Before you buy a bike make sure you take the msf course! www.msf-usa.org And make sure you have all of your gear! Helmet, gloves and jackets are the main things to have. Go to ebay or any other bike shop to buy all of this stuff!

Let me know if I missed anything.

*****EDIT******
Please do not ask which bike you should get! WE AREN'T MIND READERS!! SIMPLY GO AROUND AND SIT ON EACH BIKE YOU ARE INTERESTED IN, THEN DECIDE.

Also it's not the best idea to get something brand new for your first bike! I alway's recommend spending around $3k for your first bike. If you have any questions please PM me i'll be more then happy to help you out!

[MattC]

if u want to start the right right way get a ninja 250, those bikes are bullet proof, we've droped my friends maybe 50 times and it just keeps putting. as far as best 600 to start with, if u want something cheap to fix if u drop it get the fzr600 or an f-series honda. if u want a 600 that will last you from beginner to a few years after learning get a gsx-r 6 but they aren't cheap to fix after being dropped.

[moldyhands]

isn't anyone going to recommend a hayabusa? jfwy

but i wouldn't warn against a new 600, i learned on mine and so far i'm still alive.

[JUG-LUDE]

if you have the money to start out on a new 600 and can afford to fix it when you drop it, then go for it. This is for all the people that don't feel like giving out all that money.

[Gsxr Girl]

I've dropped my gixxer roughly 8 times now - 5'4" w/ 29" inseem - it's gonna happen if you're short. I bought frame sliders before the bike and they more than paid off. The worst damage I suffered was a cracked windshield (my head did that though) and scraped mirrors, light spots on the exhaust can and case cover. So, the 6 can be just as tough as the 250 - I'm proof

[Gsxr Girl]

Oh and if you ignore all common sense and suggestions in this thread and buy a 2004 R1 and crash it shortly there after - send me a pm, I'll buy it

[SSpiro]

How about some things to look for when looking at used bikes? Proof of too many drops, damage, average and above average mileage on a bike, etc...

[HaveAnotherBrew]

Originally posted by Gsxr Girl
Oh and if you ignore all common sense and suggestions in this thread and buy a 2004 R1 and crash it shortly there after - send me a pm, I'll buy it

I have a friend who's supposedly getting an '04 R1 this Monday. He's a complete idiot when it comes to life, let alone bikes. I'm sure I'll be sending you a PM on his part very shortly......

[letsrollagn]

and from experience...Tips on buying used bikes:

Inspect the bikes thoroughly, or have someone that knows bikes go with you (and not know of them, but actual experience working on them for a living). Preferably one familiar with that particular bike/make/etc.

HAVE HIM RIDE IT...not for 5 minutes, have him go on at least a 10-15min ride if they will let him. It is easy to get a bike to idle okay for a few minutes, but after the bike is really warmed up it will reveal a great deal if there are problems with it (engine/tranny/suspension/etc).

If they really want to sell it, they will let you (but please make sure it is an EXPERIENCED rider, you don't want to have to pay for a totalled bike if they are loopy).

I can not stress this next point enough...CHECK THE #'S yourself online. Make sure that the frame and engine match each other and the title. If they don't match each other it is not terrible, just lets you know that it has been swapped out for some reason.

If they are different from each other, make sure to check the #'s online individually. I have a friend whom lost a bike to the police impound because the engine was stolen, and just not reporting it (even not knowingly) is accepting stolen merchandise because the police will say you should have checked. A real good deal gets ten times worse when shit happens...and you know what they say...

If they match and they match the title, your all good.

IF THE FRAME VIN# DOES NOT MATCH THE TITLE DO NOT BUY IT. It will not be worth the trouble. Do not buy anything that the person says, "it has a title, I just don't have it...all you have to do is...etc, etc, etc. Sometimes a deal can be made for a really good price, but it is rare that it doesn't have ANY snag or it wouldn't be that cheap, I don't care what they tell you...be smart, don't be a retard.

It is easy to get caught up in someones bullshit story while looking at something you really want...and sometimes the pretttttty paint and ssshhhiiinnny stuff makes you go ooooooh, but use reason. You don't know how many friends I have that in the past squiddage days bought the 1st bike they looked at...bad idea, no matter how much he tells you the deal won't be there in a little while, more often than not, it will be.

As for the mechanics, leave it to someone that knows better as stated above...but for a general check:

ASK THEM ABOUT ANY PROBLEMS
Check the fluids obviously
See if there are any areas that are leaking fluids, have large deposits, etc.

Look for broken pieces, clips, tape (holding stuff together, like wonder duct tape), pieces of wire/zipties/string even are usually the signs of a lost bolt/nut/screw (no biggie), but the tab/mounts could be broken off and not easily repaired (pain in the ass).

Listen for tapping, knocking, irregular noises, etc...if you here them find out what they are if you can.

See if it overheats, stalls, smokes, all the obvious things...also keep in mind most bikes do sound and run rougher when cold, but if it does have it checked first.

Look for any scrapes, grinds, etc...on metal or plastic. Look for multiple replaced parts (sign of a crash). Not that a crashed bike is no good, it is just better to be aware of it as you will scrutinize the bike more if you think it has been wrecked.

Just ask lots of questions and look for the "to good to be true" type deals and think clearly about your purchase, do your own research...you will learn a lot.

[KrazyInKamo]

and bikes under the class of "sport bikes" are nimble through the corners..

Busa = "Sport Touring"

[B16aTeggy]

up above this guy +1 about the bike warming up..

my ninja runs like shit(doesnt wanna go passed 5-6k) untill about 10-15 of runinng

[Frankie]

Originally posted by B16aTeggy
up above this guy +1 about the bike warming up..

my ninja runs like shit(doesnt wanna go passed 5-6k) untill about 10-15 of runinng

+1

My bike hits a real mean lean spot between 4-5k when it's cold. If I try to rev it higher than 4k cold, it sounds broken. After about 10-15 minute I can slam it to 11k no problem.

[user0ne]

Originally posted by DogBoneR1
The slower your first bike, the faster you'll be.

Sounds contradictory, but allow me to explain. If your first bike is one of the faster ones on the market (which currently would mean about any 750cc sportbike or larger), you will rarely be forced to push yourself to get much performance out of the bike. With that much power on tap, you can simply twist the throttle and away you go. Getting a bike to accelerate is about the easiest thing you can do. Braking, shifting, and cornering require more skill, more knowledge, and a lot more practice.

When the inexperienced rider on a big bike goes riding with friends on a twisty back road or even on a racetrack, he will find himself struggling to keep up. Usually, he will rely on the bike's power. He's going fast, but he is using a tiny fraction of the bike's performance and he can be a very lazy rider. Not good.

Starting on a small bike forces the rider to extract all the performance out of the bike. To do this, a rider must become skilled. Plus, starting small decreases your margin for error. The first rider will be going far faster on the straights with his more powerful bike. But at the end of that straight is a corner waiting. Some serious braking and a quick transition to hard cornering is required. Just a slight miscalculation can mean an accident and at these speeds accidents are more likely to be serious ones.

So from here on out, I'm not going to respond to threads asking "What size bike should I start on?" or any other variance of the question. Start Small!!

good advice!

[Cliff]

http://projectboil.pixel10.co.uk/posting/Posting.html

Thank you, have a nice day!

[hofersf49]

So i should forget about the cbr600 f4i then????????????????