Official Deep Clean Detailing Thread

[chet]

Since the mods are not getting back to me about a TR Shop, I'll post all vehicles I detail here until that happens.

I've been having a blast detailing vehicles...and thought I'd post my latest project.

98 Infiniti I30 that's been abused and neglected.

This is a different job from most...as the car belongs to my idiot best friend who couldn't care less about caring for a vehicle. He's looking to sell it and I'm getting tired of looking at it...so I figured I'd detail it so it'd sell faster.

A few notes.

I'm not using the best products.

I'm not using the most care.

I'm not being extremely careful.

I'm not worried about taking too much clear coat off.

A job like this gives me a chance to try new products, new techniques, new pad combinations, etc etc. I love testing a proven product like M105 and using it side by side with a way less expensive product from "detail king." I also enjoy using different pad combinations with every type of polish I own...to see how each product works on a relatively soft paint from a Japanese manufacturer.

Today I detailed the interior and used the carpet extractor to take out some of the more ugly stains. Achieving perfection isn't the objective...as I'm just looking to "improve" this sh*tbox enough to watch it sell.

On to the pics...







Used a new product interior detailer from meguiar's...which I kinda like. It's not 303 aerospace protectant, but I like it. Leather hasn't been treated...will do that at the end.





On to a few pics of the paint.



Polish from Detail king that I've never had much luck with...white pad that I got with PC DA that I just put on the shelf. Keep in mind, this is just one stage...plan on using a second m205 like product from detail king tomorrow.


Polish worked ok...its not m105, but its half as expensive. As always, you get what you pay for most of the time!


Shot of the hood after one pass with m105 like product from detail king. Will post the name tomorrow...after I do a 2nd 3rd of the hood with m105 w/ same white pad. It'll be fun to do a comparison with better lighting.



Here is a shot of the fender after using a yellow foam pad (from detail king that I actually kinda like...similar to LC yellow pad...but way thicker) and rotary buffer. This was the first time I'd used a foam pad with a rotary buffer...so I wasn't sure of the results. As you can see, scratches were removed and lighter swirl's were left behind. This isn't a great combination...and proves just how efficient and useful a DA is with the right pads...when working with a relatively soft paint.



I will post more pictures tomorrow...as I continue using this POS as a way to test new techniques/products, etc.

Also, the email I wrote to the owner...thought some of you may get a laugh out of this.

"The Infiniti is trashed. The tires are shot and it barely started after the battery was charged and massive amounts of starter fluid was sprayed into air filter. Once started the engine made loud ticking noise for ten minutes. It seems as though engine has quieted down...which is more than I can say about the humming tires and creaking rear shocks. If someone pays more than 16oo for the piece of **** ill be amazed."

And a picture of the products I'm using.



More pics to follow when I have time to continue polishing the piece of sh*t.

[chet]

Worked a bit more on the I30.

Driver Rear Quarter before compounding.



After polish.



Some scratches are just too deep to remove...without taking whats left of the clear coat.

Here are a few pics of the driver side doors.







Daylight pics tomorrow...if the weather is decent.

[chet]

Here is an SVT Raptor I recently did.

Truck came from dealership with scuff mark near hood. M205 and blue LC pad handled it quickly. Otherwise, paint was in relatively good shape.
















Finished with my favorite wax over top of chem guys blacklight sealant. (blacklight sealant under blacklight midnight sun is better, but takes longer to cure)

[Graves]

I dont know what kind of coin you charge for your work & im certainly not knocking it in any way, but you shot yourself in the foot with this one.

I guarantee you that truck is still within warranty had you submitted that paint defect to Ford you would have easily gotten 500 -600 dollars to correct it.

We'd kick them back to the customer unless they were noted at the time of delivery.

[Graves]

scuff is a factory default?

[Graves]

Anything is a factory defect as long as a "Certified Paint Inspector" says it is a paint defect

Am i wrong?

Except when you have to send in photos of every warranty claim for paint/body. Ford got so bad before I left we had to send in pictures of warrantied parts, even though we had to keep the parts in case they wanted us to send them to the factory for inspection. We would constantly get people coming back in after 2 months of getting their car with a scratch or scuff they found the first time they washed it. Most of the time the new car department ate an exterior detail to fix it.

[Graves]

I inspected all the new units that came in, let me tell you I had some fun times with customers when I couldn't' release a vehicle. One customer had 4 f250's get sent back because they were coated in hydraulic brake fluid. The body shop would have to repaint the whole trucks pretty much. Ford had us send them back and they would get auctioned off as used.

[chet]

A few blue trucks to add.






And a blue z71 that belongs to a good friends brother...who happens to be a soldier serving in Afghanistan.

[chet]

And another photo of the I30 I've been working on. (limited potential...but a definite improvement)

[Ls_[eg]hatch]

looking good !
nice work.

[chet]

A few pics of the car near completion.

[chet]

A few pics of a Tacoma.




Arrow showing point of correction.

[chet]

Just did a 2010 Nissan Titan. Paint was in decent shape, had some swirls and light marring. Went over entire truck with m105, m205 combination, then blackfire sealant and p21s wax. Optimum tire gel on tires and 303 protectant on black plastics. Monster truck in background is next to be detailed.


Before

Up Close of Paint

50/50 shot of paint

After correction

After correction

After sealant

After sealant and wax

[Borikua_in_Fl]

whenever i get a car detailed, how long will it last? I'm guessing there is some sort of "manteinance" to be done after getting something like that right?

[chet]

Depending on the products used, exposure to elements, etc...the sealants I use usually last 2-3 months. With wax, I'm seeing 3-4 months assuming the car has been washed properly and not stored in the sun constantly.