|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Troll extraordinaire
Car: two 88 CRX's + 98 deville
tarpon springs
: 2147483647 |
painting myths/facts?
Story:
I work with an older guy who says he used to paint cars for a living. i mentioned to him ill be painting my own car coming up here, and he was giving me some "pointers". The only reason i dont believe him 100 percent is because he used to be a crackhead He told me when shooting clear, you have to use a different tip on the gun. ive shot clear twice before, and used the same tip from start to finish. Is this correct? The clear came out fine, but im just curious here to if you must use a different style tip.. then what kind? Also, he mentioned that you must spray on "sealer" on top of the primer right before you shoot paint. Again - ive shot paint multiple times and never have i done this. Am i wrong? I may not know everything about paint, but im really tryin to learn here . Anyone who takes the time out to answer my inquiries will be thanked with rep. thanks guys. |
![]() |
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
is working on something
Car: Fords
tampa
: 2044337974 |
I havn't painted alot,but I never used a different style tip.Just different size.Iwata has a "tulip" tip that I hear is pretty badass though.As far as a sealer,I don't think you would need one unless you weren't laying paint for a while,unless he was talking about an ahesion(sp) promoter.Maybe I'm wrong though,I'm not a pro.
Last edited by 351coupe : 06-24-2008 at 02:05 AM. |
![]() |
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Car:
: 101481109 |
paint help you might ask... well as me and my father have been painting for over many years and my dad is a top painter at both mark3 doing there custom cars and trucks and also at e-one for 14yrs now and has been titeld as there best painter ever i will tell you ... the only reason you need a different type is for spray patern... adjusting the tip can only give you so much thats why you use a finer tip for the tight places where you gotta squezze into such as a door jam and that way you dont get runs... also the primer with sealer is only if your going to run it primed for awhile it seals the primer to block out any moister that can penitrate through and cause water damage there for causing rust , bondo not to stick and chipping pealing paint... anything else you need help with just ask and i can give you some pointers...
mike... |
![]() |
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
Troll extraordinaire
Car: two 88 CRX's + 98 deville
tarpon springs
: 2147483647 |
^ haha i hear you... but its one of "those guys" that will tell you stories about the porsche he used to drive around with 4 blonde dime pieces... and he drives a shitty old beat up truck and is severely overweight.
![]() everything he says im basically like
|
![]() |
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Car:
: 64795999 |
Good questions...
About the clear tip. Its not a must. Its more of a preference. I shoot my base/sealer with a Sata NR2000 1.4 tip. And most painters use one gun just for clear. Nothing else. For clear I shoot with a Sata Jet 90 1.4 tip. Now here is where I differ from most painters. Most painters will use a smaller tip on this gun like a 1.3 because it brakes the clear up alittle smaller. But I lay all my clear coats down like I want them to look. So I prefer a bigger tip on my clear gun. Second question. Sealer. this is also a preference. I myself seal EVERYTHING. I look at is as insurance. You are locking down all body work and everything under that coat. It usually only takes one wet coat of sealer to do the job. But you have to apply it really wet so that you can get the coverage desired with one coat. But sealer has more benefits than just locking down your bodywork etc. It also will fill in any imprefection missed in your prep work. Yet another insurance step. Thirdly, say you are painting the side of a car. There is damage in spots down it. three separate spots not together. If you seal the whole area just shy of blend area you are not fighting to cover the three separate spots you are just covering one uniform spot. And lastly you can tint the sealer close to the color of the car thus saving you expensive base coat and time in the booth. How that was helpful. Josh |
![]() |
|
|
|
#11 (permalink) | |
|
Painter Extrodionaire
Car: SOHC FTW
The Hill
: 157537909 |
Quote:
|
|
![]() |
|
|
|
#15 (permalink) | |
|
Wide Open and Sideways!
Car:
Central Florida
: 590441566 |
Quote:
Josh, what kind of base/clear are you spraying? I think I read somewhere that you are using PPG but I wasn't sure. I was curious and I'm not trying to steal your trade secrets or anything but when you say you lay it down how you want it to look are you saying your final coat or every coat? And how many coats are we talking? I generally like to do three coats of clear because it gives me plenty to work with when I wet-sand/buff a car. Also, I'm not quite up to a SATA yet but I use a Devilbiss Plus with a 1.4 tip and it lays down Dupont gorgeous. Thanks, Aaron |
|
![]() |
|
| Sponsored Links |