the detail thread

[BrewPuBeaver]

i searched around and didnt see any kind of thread like this.


post up car you have detailed and what products you used for the shine and what not.








wash
clay
cut
polish










wash
clay
cut
swirl remover
cleaner wax
polish
shine












wash
clay
cut
swirl remover
retouch with swirl
cleaner wax
show shine
sealer

[BrewPuBeaver]

did my Uncles 1955 Ford F100 today.
this truck was built 100% in the driveway/garage by my uncle. when he bought the parts, most of them fit in the back of his bronco. then the rest was trailered in.
everything has been redone.
the truck was painted blue first, and that lasted for about 3-4 years. then my uncle put the better motor in, and decided it was time for a color change.
sanded it all down, did all the body work, and put 2 coats of paint, and 2 coats of clear.
this was done early in the morning in the driveway, no paint booth, nothing. just simply shot the truck in the drive way with a set up that dryed relatively quickly. still waiting more than 24 hours between coats.
as you can see there were a lot of areas that had sand marks, fade, and some over shot areas of clear... it is a driveway paint job, lol...









the truck had never been buffed out, after the clear was shot. so it sat for over a year with out any wax, or buffing ever to be done.

Meguiar's Gold class shampoo
Clay bar bath
Mequiar`s fine cut 5/10 Orange med pad
Mequiar`s Cleaner wax white semi med pad
Mequiar`s Show car glaze black finishing pad
Mequiar`s Mirror Glaze black finishing pad
results

[SCP_Celica]

I'll post some pictures and what not in this thread when I have more time to make a proper post.

[SCP_Celica]

This is a 1941 Plymouth that is to far gone...





Then I used a #49 Heavy Duty Oxidation Remover, the Meguiars marine line.

Here is a side by side rub out of the hood --



I had to go over each area two and three times at least. my wool pads loaded up quickly with dead paint.




Once I was down to the "good" paint I polished it with #85 using a #7006 foam pad.

And here is the result --





I then topped it with #21 when I was done.

I only used six wool pads, three 7006, and one 8006 pads....

[BrewPuBeaver]

i need to get a bigger buffer, it would really speed up my detail times...


the porter cable has been good to me, but i out grew it about 2 years ago...

[SCP_Celica]

I enjoy the porter cable for a avg size car.

[BrewPuBeaver]

yea, but when doing large SUV`s and trucks it sucks ass

[SCP_Celica]

LOL AT THIS:

What is big and yellow, has more than 144 wheels and SHINES?

You want to see good work, real good work; this is a job I did down south. This job took me 3 days with 12 guys working with me.

Here it is:

Some of the faded ones had a finish that would rub off onto to your hand or a rag. Some serious cleaning would be needed but we only had time to “one step” the buses.




Here is the side view of the bus, don't forget what the side looked like at one point an time.

The plan I came up with was to use 12 people armed with PC dual action/ G100 polishers with 8 inch wool pads to apply Meguair’s #20. I felt that #20 would be an excellent choice because it is a polymer sealant that has a pretty good degree of chemical cleaner in it. I hoped that in addition to getting protection that the appearance of the finish would be improved by the cleaning action of #20.

I bought 10 brand new dual action polishers and nine gallons (36 bottles) of #20. The pads we used were 3M (which I didn’t care for too much). The scaffolding was rented and I already had everything else in my arsenal





We allowed the buses to drip dry. Once dry we started the waxing.


We used Hyper dressing on the tires. It was applied with a two gallon bug sprayer. We mixed it 1:1








Before -



After -



Let me tell you something Skittle, I'm not looking to bull shit you or tell you anyone elses work is no good, all I am saying is; My work is unforgettable.

You may think I have a big ego or "big headed" but can you blame me. With 85% of Florida detailers detailing cars are causing more problems then helping. I had a guy in Orlando call me up asking why he has swirls in his paint.

I asked him does he wash the car or bring it into a car wash, he said to me, word for word.. " I have a local detailer come to my home an do it. "
His 95,000 dollar porshe looked like trash when the sun light hit the car.
You hire a local detailer or on avg any detailer, you'll have swirls in months if the car don't already have 'em.

Check her out...

This porshe needed the works. It had been "taken care of" incorrectly. It was covered in swirls and "spider webs" scratches with globs of wax crammed in al the nooks and crannies.






I used a DACP with a yellow foam pad on a rotory to remove the defects. I followed the DACP with #9 and a tan pad on the rotory.

The whole thing was topped with NXT. The job took two of us 3 hours.






Better shot of the front of the car.

Before -


After -


Check out what I also used to do the buses.... HAAA

FYI: You can use a bigger head with the PC too if you didn't know, check out www.autogeek.net they have good prices, and a lot to choose from. You can pick up a larger wool head for the SUV's and trucks.

[BrewPuBeaver]

yea i have bigger pads for the PC, but the one i wished worked better was the orange cutting pad. the velcro is just not up to the task and it moves around a lot.

so i got 4 more.

i mainly use 8" pads.

brewpubeaver's slideshow on Flickr


there are a few of the shots from detailing.. i didnt always take pictures.

[SCP_Celica]

Well the only thing I don't like when using the PC to remove swirls are, the proper way to remove swirls are to use 15-19 pounds of preasure when removing swirls. How ever when you do that with the PC, the head stops. That only does that so it don't burn the paint. How ever using the PC you can work smaller areas and get better results in the long run. I was told by a pro in 2003, bigger isn't better.

How ever your work is good, you should get painters tape and tape off all the areas that wax could get on. That will stop the wax from discoloring the area. Such as rubber, vinal, etc.

Your doing good, black is never a good color to make look good because it shows everything.

[BrewPuBeaver]

that was about the 4th clay bar that the rtuck killed, that was after a few passes. the whole passenger side was cover`d in some of the worst tar/over spray i have ever seen.
.








i thought the truck was black, and it was when i started, but it ended up being grey with a very deep metalic flake.....

[SCP_Celica]

I am really proud you taped off all the spots you wouldn't want the wax to discolor!

Here is a tip of my own, use tire shine cleaner under the wheel well to give a nice deep black shine.

[BrewPuBeaver]

yea i do that too.

[SCP_Celica]

Goodluck with the detailing, I've just done two private jets this weekend, I will whipped....

[BrewPuBeaver]

Today i did a a 2001 SL500 with 26,000 miles on it.
the paint was in ok, shape.... lots of swirls but no real oxidization since it had been garage kept.
the owner paid to have it detailed befor i got to it....









the entire car was covered with bad swirl marks, as well as light scratches.

as the process moves along you can see that the paint can become like a mirrior.

not a great picture, but you get the idea.



no more swirl marks


inside came out great






wash with meguiares NXT crazy purple stuff
meguiares professinal mild clay
rewash
light swirl remover with semi agressive pad
custom blend of cleaner wax with a med pad
Menzerna finishing glaze
wolfgang paint sealant
with a few minor tricks in there to get it to pop.