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Thread: Local shops...
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11-29-2009 01:49 AM #31
i pulled it alone, and swapped it in with ryan....
my SR20DET is from china....
i tuned the car myself, drove on it for a couple weeks, even had Ryan do some pulls down HW441 to get it dialed in, then drove it down 2 hours to Tampa for martin to dyno tune it....
anyone can do a swap, even if you've never done one before, i know at first they may seem like some huge daunting task, like ZOMGMOTORPULL!!, but it's nothing really...
i remember when i was freaking out about removing the upper timing chain guide on my first 240, i was like WTF serious business head work!! and then i did it and i was like well damn, shit was CAKE!
OP, i suggest to get a motor set yourself, send the harness to Martin for a conversion/clean up, borrow a hoist, get a couple 12 packs, invite some friends over..
installing an SR is basically the same, but reveresed, as pulling the KA out, disconnect the fuel lines, the 12 or so plugs on the harness, unhook the starter and alternator, pop the rad hoses off, unbolt the mounts and yoke that fucker out....
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11-30-2009 11:29 PM #32Registered User
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There are other nuissances as well, such as;
1) KA mounts and OEM SR20 mounts are NOT exactly the same one of the mounts is slightly differenet which can make initial fitment somewhat of a pain in the ass (I forget which mount this was - i think it was the passenger side mount)
2) I recommend replacing anything you can that can be easily replaced while the engine is out of the car. My old 240's steering rack was on it's way out. Replace as many vaccum lines as possible. Replace the Oem fuel filter with a Z32 fuel filter. My power steering lines were leaky and I ignored it - which proved to be another huge pita to replace while the engine was still in teh car (I ended up ignoring this issue). I recommend replacing your powersteering lines as most every nissan I have owned has had this stupid issue and it's easy to replace while your engine is out of the car.
3) Engine Prep:
DO NOT USE THE SLIGHTLY DINGED SR PAN THAT COMES WITH YOUR MOTORSET - this is a dumb idea and many people have lost engines due to the slightest ding's in their oil pans which caused oil starvation - which will cause your engine to PMS - so get either a OEM pan or a greddy pan.
Replace all of the vbelts.
Replace all of the turbo seals while the engine is still not in the car as it's a pita to do with the engine in the car.
Deciede if you want to use the stock SMIC (which is a piece) or a FMIC ahead of time. I recommend replacing your radiator with a koyo or some other quality radiator - not that mishimoto bullshit.
Replace your clutch and associated parts! The one that came with my engine was completely shot.
The driveshaft dust cover will have to be eliminated or beat out a little.
It's not going to be a oh... i am just going to spend x amount on a motorset and wiring service and be done with it ordeal. There are lots of little bits that will have to be looked at if you want a strong running swap. I realized this when I was doing my swap and I realize why shops charge those extra fee's they do. It's because a shop that is going to do a swap and stand behind what they've put in won't have you stuck on the side of the road because a vbelt snapped, or your engine starved of oil and now your main bearings are toast. You also don't have to worry about dealing with the supplier if your engine is knocking or compression is way too low e.t.c.
There are a million and one write ups/articles pictures on SR swaps now if you really want to do your own swap.
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