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Old 11-22-2009, 09:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Car:
 
haripr is just really nice: 440910
SR Runs like ass

Hey,
So Tom and I finally almost finished up the car.
But it runs like ass, it runs good for 15 secs then sputters and then runs good again.
This is what we did.
Changed the turbo from a t28 to sc61.
Changed the headgasket.
Installed new greddy easy cams.
The car still runs on the 550cc injectors the ecu was tuned for.
Oh also we used bk6re spark plug's instead of 7re's.

We checked the timing its dead on.
Also once we start the car up and disconnect the maf it runs better but not perfect.
Any ideas?
Its an s14 sr20det, stock bottom end.

Thanks

Last edited by haripr : 11-22-2009 at 10:02 AM. Reason: engine info


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Old 11-22-2009, 12:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Car: 1996 SR'd 240SX SE
 
Gainesville FL
Blackzenki82 has a reputation beyond repute: 481128051
Hari, do a boost/vac leak test, if that doesn't solve it, then do a compression test..

i know tom did the work, but what HG did you guys use? (if i know tom, he used a cometic piece of shit HG which ALWAYS have problems, and you need to copper spray the shit out of em)

here's a thing i wrote on another forum about the boost/vac tester..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackzenki82 View Post

and fuck a smoke machine, be like me, go to lowes, get a rubber pipe cap with the ID whatever size you intake/turbo inlet is, and then get a male air hose end by the compressors and shit, drill a 3/8 hole in the clamp, screw the male end in, clamp the motherfucker to your inlet/intake, set your air compressor to 25lbs (or 10PSI more than what you're pushing) and hook it up, let the compressor shut off, and just listen for the hssssssssssss or air leaking... use a cigg (or a black and mild in my case) to help isolate the leak IF you can hear it but not see it...

just a tip.... and the "tester" is under $10 at your local lowes...
if you guys need a hand to help diagnose shit, have Tommy give me a ring, and i'll swing through to help out!

and don't think your top mount is gonna help you beat me brosive!!!


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Old 11-22-2009, 01:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Car: 1990 sr hatch
 
tampa
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sounds like you have a vac leake the reason it runs better when the maf is disconected is because it goes into almos like a closed loop and dumps fuel because it can not metter the air


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Old 11-22-2009, 07:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Car:
 
haripr is just really nice: 440910
Hmm will check for vacuum leaks.
Enthalpy told me its possibly because the maf is mounted too close to the turbo. will see tomorrow, and i guess it should be a big ass vacuum leak for it to run like that too.
Also when we started the car up first had the maf hooked up to the intercooler piping, and it ran good i guess,except when it idles, which could be possibly be because there was no o2 sensor hooked up that time.
@marshall: wel see with my top mount and sc61 when the car runs.
Yeah its cometic, lol.

Last edited by haripr : 11-22-2009 at 07:17 PM.


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Old 11-22-2009, 11:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Car: 91 240sx
 
florida
sullivanracing06 has a reputation beyond repute: 21636914
hari im fixing that leak tomorrow after you make that wood dowel and use some left over i/c piping top extend the maf away from the turbo.

and make s piece i can fit into the entry of the turbo to run compressed air in to so i can check for vac leaks


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Old 11-23-2009, 12:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Car: 1996 SR'd 240SX SE
 
Gainesville FL
Blackzenki82 has a reputation beyond repute: 481128051
^
i'd help tomorrow, but i'm putting a v mount T28 set up on a miata tomorrow... JOY...


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Old 11-24-2009, 02:25 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Car: 91 240sx
 
florida
sullivanracing06 has a reputation beyond repute: 21636914
haha haris a fag, fuck you hari. hows alexs door doing you muff eater...


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