Chassis stiffening via various methods...
Chassis stiffening via various methods...
Looked like a good topic in the "What did you do..." thread and I have a few more questions. Rather then clog up the other thread I figured I would make a new one to gather all the info.
Now with the expanding foam, looks like they drilled holes in the rocker to fill it. Is that the only way to get it in there or is there another way to fill it? Will the foam also fill the crevices on either side of the rear seats? I am looking to isolate the cabin acoustically and seems easier and cheaper then roll after roll of Dyna-mat. Plus the rigidity is an added bonus.
And Epstein, if you were looking for stiffness why not go with the 16lb setup?
Also, what are the fire properties of the foam you used Epstein?
Now with the expanding foam, looks like they drilled holes in the rocker to fill it. Is that the only way to get it in there or is there another way to fill it? Will the foam also fill the crevices on either side of the rear seats? I am looking to isolate the cabin acoustically and seems easier and cheaper then roll after roll of Dyna-mat. Plus the rigidity is an added bonus.
And Epstein, if you were looking for stiffness why not go with the 16lb setup?
Also, what are the fire properties of the foam you used Epstein?
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Last edited by Ph34r; 07-15-2009 at 07:48 AM.
I was wondering how flammable the foam was as well...
The holes are there you dont need to drill, and this stuff will catch on fire if it gets hot enough, like if you weld over that panel. Other than that it will be fine.
Fire Rated & Acoustic Expanding Foam
Will that stiffen up as much? The 2 hour burn rating makes me feel a bit safer putting in the car.
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If you're mainly looking for acoustic purposes and only want rigidity as a secondary, I'd look for the Handi-foam 2lb kits. They go in way easier since the kits are pressurized, and the nozzle is very small so it can go into small holes.
For most members, you just use whatever available holes are there. With the Handi-foam kits, you can even shoot it through the small holes for plastic clips. With the pour type kit that I used, you have to have a funnel. I had to open up some holes to 5/8" to get my funnel in there.
As far as fire, I think it's flame retardant. It's really supposed to be for boats, so whatever the Coast Guard requirements are.
It's also fully closed-cell with over 99.9% moisture rejection. I've heard a lot of people talk about possibly promoting rust. That's a bunch of crap. I sprayed some spare Handi-foam in a pile in the yard once. It sat out there for 3 years and hadn't broken down or gained weight from dampness.
For most members, you just use whatever available holes are there. With the Handi-foam kits, you can even shoot it through the small holes for plastic clips. With the pour type kit that I used, you have to have a funnel. I had to open up some holes to 5/8" to get my funnel in there.
As far as fire, I think it's flame retardant. It's really supposed to be for boats, so whatever the Coast Guard requirements are.
It's also fully closed-cell with over 99.9% moisture rejection. I've heard a lot of people talk about possibly promoting rust. That's a bunch of crap. I sprayed some spare Handi-foam in a pile in the yard once. It sat out there for 3 years and hadn't broken down or gained weight from dampness.
Reason I ask...
Fire Rated & Acoustic Expanding Foam
Will that stiffen up as much? The 2 hour burn rating makes me feel a bit safer putting in the car.
Fire Rated & Acoustic Expanding Foam
Will that stiffen up as much? The 2 hour burn rating makes me feel a bit safer putting in the car.
And besides, that foam won't work. The poly foam that we're using uses a catalyst reaction to harden and cure. It doesn't need air. That foam and stuff like "great stuff" need air to dry. Go fill up a clear plastic cup with great stuff and it'll only dry and harden about 1/2" down. The rest will still be liquid. The hardening reaction is much like fiberglass. It gets pretty darn hot when curing. Even when dissipating that heat to the chassis.
^ Cool
And do you know what type of non-porous adhesion it might have? Was going to fill the holes in the side panel by the rear seat and am making sure it won't just fall out.
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Didn't know what the fire ratings were exactly about, that is why I asked.
Now my question got answered, so other people can see the answer too...
The exhaust temp was the primary concern to me. But knowing that a small electrical short will not cause my rockers to go up like they are filled with silver fulminate, is also comforting.
And do you know what type of non-porous adhesion it might have? Was going to fill the holes in the side panel by the rear seat and am making sure it won't just fall out.
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Didn't know what the fire ratings were exactly about, that is why I asked.
Now my question got answered, so other people can see the answer too...
The exhaust temp was the primary concern to me. But knowing that a small electrical short will not cause my rockers to go up like they are filled with silver fulminate, is also comforting.
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Last edited by Ph34r; 07-15-2009 at 08:44 AM.
Well I have a bunch of it still stuck to my hands, but that's technically porous. Basically it sticks like a MFer. I had some spill out of holes under the car on to my epoxy garage floor. I was able to pry it off with a screwdriver, but what really happened was that I just tore the skin off the bottom of the foam mass. There's still a layer of foam stuck to the floor.
For adhesion, the surface just needs to be clean and oil-free. The MSDS for all of these foams include the phrase "removal: mechanical abrasion only" in them. That is, it ain't coming off.
For adhesion, the surface just needs to be clean and oil-free. The MSDS for all of these foams include the phrase "removal: mechanical abrasion only" in them. That is, it ain't coming off.
lol @ the three year field test / observation period.