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seam welding the chassis

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Old 06-05-2008, 12:33 AM
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Angry seam welding the chassis

this may sound like a dummbie question but all the searching ive done online has not directly stated if you can weld on to the chassis without having to remove the engine and electrical equipment. I plan on using a TIG welder and know their will me a current running through the car but i dont know if it will still leave the car undamaged.

simply put do i have to take out the engine to just weld my car up tight?
thanks for any help.
Old 06-05-2008, 05:51 AM
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Just need to disconnect the battery ground.
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Originally Posted by osama tim laden
full on track cars can take a lot more liberties with shit than a street car. bell bottom kits and crazy wheel fitment look cool sliding on a track, but when i want to drive to taco bus, im going to ruin all of that shit. so it just doesnt work for me. function over fashion.
Originally Posted by osama tim laden
also, im about to blow my moderator status by deleteing all of davids posts
R.I.P. Tim

SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.

SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
Old 06-05-2008, 08:02 AM
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Smile

thanx man that just saved me a s*** load of work.
Old 06-05-2008, 09:17 AM
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yeah, not sure how the engine just sitting there would cause a problem... you just need to separate the electrical system from the chassis... like ^^ said, remove the ground..
Old 06-05-2008, 05:53 PM
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just weld it, disconnect your battery, and weld it. MIGs work just as fine, TIGs take forever on projects like this.
Disconnect the ground if you feel it makes you feel safer.
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Old 06-05-2008, 06:01 PM
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what exactly is the difference between mig and tig?
Tig just has a higher temp range right?
I don't know... not something I ever had the need to know....
Old 06-05-2008, 06:43 PM
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Unless you plan to weld ALL the seams on your chassis your not going to see any signifigant diffrences, and im assuming your not if you dont want to take out the engine/electrical. And FYI when your welding on a car ESP. with a MIG it's suggested you remove the gas tank.

And I dont reccomend this type of weld if your doing somthing like this. People call this a stitch weld but it's not it's tack/spot welding.


However THIS is a stitch weld, a complete weld unlike welds spaced 2'' apart...





Ever look at the stock welds that hold on the metal? There spot welds spaced apart. What diffrence is Pic 1 going to make , not much. So i reccomend stitch welding the seams, even if all your doing are the ones in the engine bay or the strut towers, you will feel a diffrence more then spot welding. Also hope this isint your daily cause get ready for some diffrent sounds and shakes in your car
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Old 06-05-2008, 07:14 PM
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norachel, TIG has one main advantage over MIG which is control. Wiki the difference between the two.
For this application, yeah "stitch" welding is ideal because it's sheet metal. You just want to "float" the fillers on top and into the work piece, and not penetrate completely through the metal.
Over working or welding the metal will warp the material.
Many kinds of cars and trucks stitch weld, not a 240 thing at all.
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Old 06-05-2008, 07:26 PM
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k. will do.
thanks for the basic idea though
Old 06-05-2008, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ImportLuv
norachel, TIG has one main advantage over MIG which is control. Wiki the difference between the two.
For this application, yeah "stitch" welding is ideal because it's sheet metal. You just want to "float" the fillers on top and into the work piece, and not penetrate completely through the metal.
Over working or welding the metal will warp the material.
Many kinds of cars and trucks stitch weld, not a 240 thing at all.
If you use a 110 MIG you wont need to worry about over penetrating. You also are susposed to only go about 5'' at a time to avoid overworking the metal. Also when your welding you going to burn the liner in the fender wells so to avoid a fire go a little at a time.
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