If You Are New To Nissan Tech Please Read **rules And Faq!**

[Enthalpy]

Well with the influx of new members to the Nissan forum it's time for a refresher course on the rules in this forum:

This is supposed to be a tech forum, however it should be more of the Nissan Community Forum. So strictly Tech is not required. Feel free to post about the following:

Nissan Tech
Nissan News
Nissan Meets and Gatherings
General Nissan Chat

Before you ask a question that has been asked a million times...use the search function (site wide..not just nissan tech). Chances are you are asking a question that has been answered before...if not congrats, you are doing something new (or maybe doing something wrong ).

We mods find ourselves saying "lets keep things positive" in here alot lately. This isn't Pit Road...if you aren't going to make a worthwhile contribution to a thread...then please don't post. TR.com has a very nice Private Messaging function if you would like to discuss soemthing personal with someone. Let's try to not let this forum turn into what some of the other tech forums on this board have turned into.

Thanks,
Scott

[Enthalpy]

Also the followign posts/topics will be deleted with no warning:

"KA vs SR" - build what YOU like
"Influx of new owners"
"drama..."
"Post Whoring" - posting to accumulate post count
"Where to get your swap done" - it's in this thread, you know what to do.

[Enthalpy]

There are plenty of good shops in town. Some are even TR.com vendors, and there is a Shop Forum for them.

-Go visit them and talk to the people at these shops. They are more than willing to talk to you and answer questions for you.

-Use the SEARCH function here on TR if you need names or recommendations.

-If you are doing your OWN swap feel free to ask questions here.



Lately there has been a huge influx of "Where should I have my swap done?" posts. Using the search feature will help you greatly. Posts of this nature will be locked.

Thanks,
The Management.

[Durdan]

This sticky has been made to answer all the questions asked on an almost daily basis. This thread will stay locked indefinately and will be added to as needed. If you have something to add, please PM taylor durden and i will add accordingly.


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General Tech Info
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Engine (SR)

-S13 SR OE replacement part number reference list:

Part Part # U.S.-spec source car

Oil filter 15208-53J00 91-94 Sentra SE-R

Fuel Filter 16400-00002 1990-1996 300ZX TT

Upper injector o-ring 16618-53J00 7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (small/upper)

Lower injector o-ring 16618-10V05 7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (big/lower)



SR20DET OE turbo variations:



S13 SR20DET: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor, 53.8mm 62 trim T-25 turbine, .64 A/R turbine housing. Journal bearings.

S14 SR20DET: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing, 62 trim 53.8mm T-25 turbine. .64 A/R turbine housing. Ball bearing center section.

S15 SR20DET: Same as S14, but with Inco turbine wheel (instead of GMR), cast divider wall between turbine discharge and wastegate.

Pulsar GTi-R: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in standard T-3 housing. 79 trim 53.8mm Inco T-250 turbine wheel .86 A/R turbine housing. Journal bearings.

BB SR20DET: T-25. Basically, the same as the S13 Silvia.


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Engine (Other)

------------------------
Non-engine power upgrades

-Exhaust systems are chassis-specific irregardless of engine type. This means S14 exhausts fit both KA and SR engines, for example. The only exception to this rule is that S13 CA18DE(T) exhaust systems do not fit onto SR/KA S13 chassis.

------------------------
Suspension

-S13/14 adjustable pillowball upper mounts are interchangeable.
-S13/14 coilovers are not interchangeable.
-S13/14 rear upper arms are interchangeable as long as they are adjustable.

------------------------
Brakes

-For variations of the Z32 300ZX 4 piston caliper, please see this site (written by Asad Aboobaker):
http://www.princeton.edu/~asad/zbrakes/


------------------------
Transmission/Differential

-For Kaaz/Nismo LSD, VLSD output shafts are required. You need two of the following: LSD output shaft 38220-52F01
-Short shifters are interchangeable b/w S13/14 KA transmission and S13/14 SR transmission.


------------------------
Wheels/hubs

-Clearance of wheels for Z32 brake upgrade is entirely dependent on wheel spoke AND wheel design, NOT on offset of wheel.
-Wheel width/offset needed for clearance of coilovers is as follows (disregarding brake clearance):

6" +54 or lower

6.5" +45 or lower

7" +40 or lower

7.5" +34 or lower

8" +30 or lower

8.5" +24 or lower

9" +20 or lower

Please note that this does not take into account variations in offset calculation by manufacturer, or tire sidewall bulge. This list also does not take into account differences in design of coilovers (esp. lower brackets on coilover kits which can cause changes in wheel clearance issues). This list also only applies to the FRONT WHEELS and is intended as a GUIDE for reference.

-The LARGEST wheels that will fit the front of a S13/14 with stock fenders is 9" wide. The rear can take up to 10.5" wide with a very specific offset AND must dial in negative camber. To fit large wheels one must use negative camber to ensure proper fender clearance.

Hub

-S13 uses 30mm front hub bolt, S14 uses 32mm front hub bolt. Both chassis uses 36mm rear hub bolt.
-Conversion to 5 lug on S13 chassis requires S14SE/Z32nonturbo rear hubs, and either 1) JDM aftermarket front S13 5 lug hubs, or 2) S14 SE front hubs + S14 spindle + S14 ball joint w/LCA (and redrilling of strut for larger strut bolt).
-Conversion to 5 lug on S14 requires S14 SE front hubs and S14SE/Z32nonturbo rear hubs.

------------------------
Interior

-S13/14/15 front seats are interchangeable without any modification.
-R32/33/34 front Skyline seats fit S13/14 with a minor modification to one of the holes for the mounting bolts.

------------------------
Chassis Info

-S13/14 front strut tower bars are only interchangeable if the length of the strut bar can be adjusted. Rear strut tower bars are not interchangeable.


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Auto to 5 Speed Conversion
-----------------------------------------------

Parts you will need:

5 Speed transmission
5 Speed driveshaft
5 Speed transmission bracket
flywheel
clutch
pilot bushing
clutch pedal assembly
hard clutch line
clutch master cylinder
clutch slave cylinder

you will need to remove the large metal collar inserted in the end of the crankshaft where the torque converter used to sit. install the clutch pilot bushing. you will also need to cut a hole for the clutch master cylinder. the holes are already stenciled out inside the firewall next to the brake pedal assembly. you will also need to take the large grey two wire plug off the auto transmission lower harness and plug it in where it went in the plugs under the fuse box. join the two wires together on the cut plug. this bypasses the automatic nuetral safety switch. for reverse lights, find the two wires on the lower tranny harness that make continuity when the transmission is put in reverse. this should be the black wire and the green wire on the grey multi-wired plug. connect the two wires to the two wires on the switch located on the transmission closest to the bell housing.


-----------------------------------------------
Single Cam to Twin Cam swap
-----------------------------------------------

you will need:

twin cam motor
twin cam motor harness
twin cam ecu
twin cam mafs
twin cam intake pipe
twin cam power steering lines (all)
twin cam heater hoses
custom a/c lines
twin cam gauge cluster

you will need to completely remove all single cam power steering lines and install the twin cam lines; from reservoir to pump. install motor. the twin cam harness will need the brown gauge cluster plug removed and the white single cam cluster plug put on in its place. just match colors. those that dont match; discard. as far as a/c, the line ends can be changed by a competent line maker, or you can replace the condensor with a twin cam unit and hard line along firewall, changing only the fitting end going into the a/c evaperator via the fitting on the firewall

if using an S14 twin cam, you will need:

S13 twin cam exhaust manifold
S13 twin cam throttle body (TPS is different on 96+; 95 will work in S13)
custom heater hoses
S13 distributor (S14 dist can be used with harness modification)
S13 coolant temp sensor for gauge (single wire)


-----------------------------------------------
Factory Electric Fans
-----------------------------------------------

the single cam has a small auxilliary fan mounted in the core support in front of the condensor. this fan cannot be used for cooling

the twin cam S13 has a single speed electric fan for a/c compensation. it is located between the radiator and the motor. it also is not sufficient enough for engine cooling

the twin cam S14 fan is a two speed fan. this fan CAN be wired on high permanantly and used as a cooling fan, but is not enough to cool the motor AND the a/c system at the same time. you will notice overheating issues under use. to wire on high, mate the black and yellow wires as the fan ground, and the blue and green wires for power. run fan through a relay triggered by either a thermostatic fan switch or to ignition 'on'.

[Hella Slow]

here are some spring rates:

Stock 1992 (from FSM)
Front & Rear: 102 lb/in _ _
Front & Rear: 110 lb/in w/ HICAS


Stock 1990 (from FSM):
Front & Rear: 112 lb/in (base)
Front & Rear: 123 lb/in (sports package)


KGMM S21 Sport (Black)
Front: 3.2 kg/mm | 179.2 lb/in
Rear: 2.6 kg/mm | 145.6 lb/in


KGMM S21 SuperSport (Blue)
Front: 4.6 kg/mm | 257.6 lb/in
Rear: 3.8 kg/mm | 212.8 lb/in


KGMM S21 Racing (Silver/Gold)
Front: 6.6 kg/mm | 369.6 lb/in
Rear: 5.2 kg/mm | 291.2 lb/in


Eibach ProKit (Progressive)
Front: 114-200 lb/in | -1.8"
Rear: 114-148 lb/in | 1.6"


Eibach Sportlines (Progressive)
Front: 137-230 lb/in | 2.2"
Rear: 128-200 lb/in | 2.1"


H & R Sport (Progressive)
Front:2.0-2.08kg/mm | 112~116 lbs/in | -1.3"
Rear: 2.5-2.6kg/mm | 140~145 lbs/in | -1.3"

RSR Race Springs
Front: 279 lb/in | 1.4"
Rear: 251 lb/in | 1.2"

RSR Down
Front: 3.0 kg/mm | 167 lbs/in | 1.5" Est.
Rear: 3.0 kg/mm | 167 lbs/in | 1.2" Est.

Tokico
Front: 3.0 kg/mm | 169 lbs/in | -1"
Rear: 2.7 kg/mm | 150 lbs/in | -1"

TANABE GF210 (Grip Feeling)
Front = 2.9 kg/mm | 162 lb/in | -30to -40mm
Rear = 2.7 kg/mm | 151 lb/in | -15 to -25mm

Suspension Techniques: 1.3" drop
Front: 206 lb/in | 1.3"
Rear: 155 lb/in | 1.3"

Tein S.Tech
Front = 3.2 kg/mm | 179 lb/in
Rear = 2.9 kg/mm | 162 lb/in


5Zigen R-Rate (Progressive)
Front = 2.4-5.2 kg/mm | 134-291 lb/in | 1.3"
Rear = 1.9-5.0 kg/mm | 106-280 lb/in | 1.1"


S13 Coilovers


Nismo S-Tune (not height adjustable)
Front: 5.3 kg/mm | 296 lb/in
Rear: 3.9 kg/mm | 218.4 lb/in

Nismo N1
Front: 8/10/12 kg/mm | 448 - 672 lb/in
Rear: 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in

Tein HA
Front = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in
Rear = 5 kg/mm | 280 lb/in

Tein HE
Front = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in
Rear = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in

Tein RA _
Front = 10 kg/mm | 559 lb/in
Rear = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in

Tein RE
Front = 10 kg/mm | 559 lb/in
Rear = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in

Tein RS
Front = 10 kg/mm | 559 lb/in
Rear = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in

Tein FLEX
Front = 5 kg/mm | 280 lb/in
Rear = 4 kg/mm | 224 lb/in

Zeal Function B-6
Sreet Spec:
Front = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in
Rear = 5 kg/mm | 280 lb/in
Circuit Spec:
Front = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in
Rear = 7 kg/mm | 392 lb/in


S14 Springs

KGMM DR21
Front = 4.8-3.0 kg/mm | 269-168 lb/in
Rear = 4.0-2.8 kg/mm | 224-157 lb/in

KGMM DR21 Racing (Silver/Gold)
Front = 6.6-3.2 kg/mm | 370-179 lb/in
Rear = 5.2-2.4 kg/mm | 291-134 lb/in

RSR Hard Springs
Front = 5.0 kg/mm | 280 lb/in
Rear = 4.2 kg/mm | 235 lb/in

TANABE SuperH
Front = 3.0 kg/mm | 168 lb/in | -28mm
Rear = 4.0 kg/mm | 224 lb/in | -9mm

TANABE DF210 (Dress Form)
Front = 4.7 kg/mm | 263 lb/in | -30to -40mm
Rear = 4.7 kg/mm | 263 lb/in | -15 to -25mm

TANABE GF210 (Grip Feeling)
Front = 2.8 kg/mm | 157 lb/in | -30to -40mm
Rear = 3.0 kg/mm | 168 lb/in | -15 to -25mm

TRUST Sport Springs
Front = 2.6 kg/mm | 146 lb/in | -25mm
Rear = 2.6 kg/mm | 146 lb/in | -25mm

HKS Super Sports
Front = 4.14 kg/mm | 232 lb/in
Rear = 3.46 kg/mm | 194 lb/in

Tein S.Tech
Front = 4.8 kg/mm | 269 lb/in
Rear = 4.4 kg/mm | 246 lb/in


s14 Coilovers


Apexi N-1 Coilovers
Front = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in
Rear = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in

Tein HA kg/mm
Front = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in
Rear = 5 kg/mm | 280 lb/in

Tein HE
Front = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in
Rear = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in

Tein RA
Front = 10 kg/mm | 559 lb/in
Rear = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in

Tein RE
Front = 10 kg/mm | 559 lb/in
Rear = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in

Tein RS
Front = 10 kg/mm | 559 lb/in
Rear = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in

Tein FLEX
Front = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in
Rear = 5 kg/mm | 280 lb/in

Zeal Function B-6
Sreet Spec:
Front = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in
Rear = 4 kg/mm | 224 lb/in
Circuit Spec:
Front = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in
Rear = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in

S13 coilovers
JIC FLT-A1 (standard rates)
front = 7 kg/mm | 392 lb/in
rear = 5 kg/mm | 336 lb/in

JIC FLT-A2 (standard rates)
front = 7 kg/mm | 392 lb/in
rear = 5 kg/mm | 336 lb/in

both s13/s14 coilovers:
megan streets are 8k/6k 448/336
megan tracks are 12k/10k 672/559

Coilovers for 1995-1998 240SX:

Tanabe Sustec Pro S-OC II
front = 6.0 kg/mm | 336 lb/in
rear = 4.0 kg/mm | 224 lb/in

Tanabe Sustec Pro S-S II
front = 6.0 kg/mm | 336 lb/in
rear = 4.0 kg/mm | 224 lb/in

2/23/06 - assembled all into post. added to faq sticky.

[dan]

If you have any more information that you feel would be a good addition to our FAQ, please PM one of the moderators of this section to inquire. If you see a certain topic come up and find a worthy FAQ for it on another forum (freshalloy, zilvia, etc), you're more than welcome to send us the link, and we can just throw up the links here to keep the thread easier to search through (as long as the link is valid).

[shinmei2006]

The Nissan 240SX, 180SX and Silvia




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NORTH AMERICA
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Nissan 240SX S13 HATCHBACK


Nissan 240SX S13 COUPE


Production
1989 - 1994

Chassis
Front Engine Rear Drive (FR)

Body Options
2dr Coupe
2dr Hatchback
2dr Convertable

Models and Engines
1989-1990
KA24E 2.4L SOHC I4
1991-1994
KA24DE 2.4L DOHC I4

Specifications 1989-90 S13
Type: 2.4L I4, SOHC, Iron Block and Aluminum Head
Displacement: 2389cc
Power: 140hp @ 5600 RPM
Torque: 152 ft./lbs @ 4400 RPM

Specifications 1991-1994 S13
Type: 2.4L I4, DOHC, Iron Block and Aluminum Head
Displacement: 2389cc
Horsepower: 155HP @ 5600rpm
Torque: 160ft/lb @ 4400 rpm

Notes
The first generation of the 240SX can be divided into two distinct variants, Zenki and Chūki.

The Zenki (前期, lit. preceding period) was sold under model years 1989 through 1990. It came in two body styles, fastback (SE) and coupe (XE). The coupe was closely related to the Japanese-market Silvia. It differed from the Silvia by having retractable headlamps (United States headlight height regulations prevented use of the Silvia headlamp arrangement), and a 140hp (105kW) 2.4-litre SOHC KA24E engine with 3 valves per cylinder instead of the 1.8-litre DOHC CA18, with no turbocharged engine available. The fastback was closely related to the Japanese-market 180SX, but likewise had the KA24E engine. Four-wheel disk brakes were standard, with antilock brakes as an option on the SE. Both models were offered with either a 4-speed automatic or 5-speed manual transmission. Coupes had a Head-Up Display showing a digital speedometer as part of the optional Power Convenience Group.

The Chūki (中期, lit. middle period) was available from model years 1991 to 1994. This gave the car an overhaul that included mostly minor body modifications and an upgrade to the engine. The front "pignose" bumper was replaced by a smoother, more modern-looking bumper, and a new (LE) hatchback trim package was added that included leather interior. The SOHC KA24E was replaced by a new DOHC KA24DE with 4 valves per cylinder that produced 15 more horsepower, for 155hp (116kW). An optional sports package including a limited slip differential and Nissan's HICAS four-wheel-steering was added to the fastback. In 1992, a convertible body style was added to the lineup. It was exclusive to North America and was partially assembled in Japan, with final assembly taking place in the California facilities of American Specialty Cars (ASC).

The S13 was known for its sharp steering/handling (thanks to a front MacPherson strut, rear multilink suspension) and light weight (2600 lb) but was regarded in the automotive press as being underpowered. The Nissan KA24E engine, while durable, was a heavy, iron-block unit that produced meager power for its size, with only slight improvement when upgraded to the DOHC version. This engine is the main difference between North America's 240SX and world-market Silvia/180SX.

For the 1994 model year, the only available car was a Special Edition of the Convertible body style with a 4-speed automatic transmission.


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Nissan 240SX S14 1995-96 'Zenki'


Nissan 240SX S14 1997-98 'Kouki'


Production
1995 - 1998

Chassis
Front Engine Rear Drive (FR)

Body Options
2dr Coupe

Models and Engines
KA24DE 2.4L DOHC I4

Specifications 1995-1998 S14
Engine: 2.4 liter, I4, DOHC, Iron Block and Aluminum Head
Horsepower: 155 @ 5600 rpm
Torque: 160 @ 4400 rpm
Compression ratio: 9.5:1
Engine Management: ECCS, OBDI (1995)
Engine Management: OBDII (1996-199

Notes
The second generation of the 240SX can be divided into two distinct variants, Zenki and Kouki.

The 240SX was redesigned with the S14 Silvia body in spring 1994 as an early 1995 model. The hatchback and convertible were eliminated, leaving only the coupe. The wheelbase of the car grew 2 inches, while the overall length of the vehicle was slightly shorter than the S13. The curb weight of the vehicle went up about 23 pounds from the S13 with the SE at 2753lbs. Aside from adding dual air bags and removing the pop-up headlights, the S14 was almost the same car as the S13 mechanically, with the main differences being cosmetic. The chassis received a host of minor detail changes, however.

From 1995 to 1996 the 240SX is considered the Zenki model. The base model had 15-inch wheels, a softer suspension, and no rear sway bar. The SE model came equipped with 16-inch alloy wheels, a stiffer suspension than the base model, and a rear sway bar. Antilock brakes and a limited-slip differential came as an optional package to the SE model.

From 1997 to 1998 the 240SX is considered the Kouki/kōki (後期, lit. latter period) or S14a model. The change mainly included updated bodywork - aggressive projector headlights; a new front bumper, hood, and fenders; and revised taillights. A luxury LE edition joined in mid 1997, equipped with leather seats, keyless entry, an antitheft system, and a CD player. Side skirts were now standard on the SE and LE trim level. The 1998 marked the end of production for the Nissan 240SX, with no further variations of the S-chassis released in America.


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JAPAN
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Production

Chassis
Front Engine Rear Drive (FR)

Body Options
2dr Coupe

Models and Engines


Specifications

Notes


UPDATE SOON!!!!!




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Nissan Engine Codes explained

SR 20DET – Engine series

SR 20 DET – Displacement (20=2.0L engine)

SR20 D ET – Engine Info (D= DOHC, V=VVT) *No letter for SOHC

SR20D E T – Fuel info (E=Fuel Injection)

SR20DE T – Forced induction (T=Turbo, TT=Twin Turbo, R=SuperCharged)

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*** Glossary ***
(Both Nissan and Drifting)
(See Drift Session for more terms)

NA = Naturally Aspirated aka No turbo or Supercharger

CA18DE, SR20DE(T), KA24DE = Nissan Silvia, 240SX and 180SX Engine Codes

S13, S14, S15 = Nissan Silvia, 240SX and 180SX Chassis Codes

Countersteer = Corrective steering used to balance and maintain an oversteered condition. (turning the steering wheel in the opposite direction of the turn once the vehicle starts to oversteer)

Oversteer = Causing a vehicle to over rotate while cornering. (causing a vehicle to be on the verge of spinning out; good for drifting and really fun)

Understeer = A loss of traction in a vehicle’s front tires, caused by excessive speed in relation to a cornering angle, causing the vehicle to slide outwards during a turn. (taking a turn too fast and not being able to hang it, your car starts to slide outward; not good and not fun)

Drift = To cause a vehicle to exceed its tires' limits of adhesion, exhibiting a lateral slip, resulting in an oversteered condition.

Heel-Toe Shifting = A drifting technique where the clutch is pressed with the left foot while the right foot presses the brake with the toes and the heel slides over to the accelerator to rev the engine up before downshifting the vehicle. (allows smooth downshifting, without jolting the vehicle)

Limited Slip Differential (LSD) = Axle gearing that allows power to be transferred to the wheel with the most traction. Similar to posi traction. (allows both power wheels to “lock up” and spin at the same time)

[shinmei2006]

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NORTH AMERICA
************************************************** **
Other Specs


Specifications
1989-90 S13

Fuel:
Fuel Tank Capacity: 53 liters
Milage (Highway): 26mpg
Milage (in city): 20mpg

Performance:
Standing 1/4 mile: 16.8 sec @ 83mph
0 to 60 (mph): 8.6 sec.
0 to 100(mph): 26.1sec.
70 to 0 (mph): 195ft (braking distance)
Top Speed: 107 mph
Road Holding 300ft Diameter skidpad: 0.83g
Understeer: moderate

Dimensions:
Length: 452.12 cm
Width: 168.91 cm
Hieght: 129.03 cm
Curb Wieght: 2795 lbs
Weight Distribution (F/R) 52.8/47.2%

External Body Options:
- Spoiler (foam piece at the end of the car)
- Front Lip (extra front valence trim piece)

Internal Body Options:
- AM/FM Cassette deck (Stereo)/w 4 speaker Clarion system.
- Cruise Control
- Air Conditioning
- Cloth or Leather Seat Appolstery
- Manual Sunroof (standard for HB)
- Electrical Sunroof (Standard for Coupe)

Engine, Transmission, Etc.:
- 4 speed automatic (dominantly coupes)
- 5 speed Manual (dominantly hatchbacks)
Specifications


Specifications
1991-1994 S13


Engine:
Type: 2.4L DOHC, 16v, inline-4, iron block, aluminum head.
Displacement: 2389cc
Horsepower: 155HP @ 5600rpm
Torque: 160ft/lb @ 4400 rpm

Performance:
0 to 60 MPH: 7.8
0 to 100 MPH: 25.0
1/4 mile: 16.3 sec @ 84 mph
Top speed: 108 mph
Braking, 70 - 0 mph: 171 ft
Roadholding, 300 ft-dia Skidpad: 0.86 g(s)

Fuel:
Fuel Tank Capacity: 55 liters
Milage (Highway): 29mpg
Milage (City): 22mpg

Dimensions:
Length: 452.12 cm
Width: 168.91 cm
Hieght: 129.03 cm
Curb Wieght: est 2795 lbs
Weight Distribution (F/R) 52.8/47.2%

S13 240sx Production Numbers

89- 68,118
90- 60,582
91- 34,534
92- 27,033
93- 21,471
94- 1,167

Models and Pricing In US$

1992 Models and MSRP:
Coupe:
Base: $14,515
SE: $16,990
Fastback:
Base: $15,265
SE: $17,435
LE: $19,320
Convertible:
Limited: $21,995

1993 Models and MSRP:
Coupe:
Base: $14,985
SE: $17,490
Fastback:
Base: $15,715
SE: $17,950
Convertible:
Limited: $22,690

1994 Model and MSRP:
Convertible:
Limited: $23,969

Notes
The S13 chassis 240sx appeared in North America in 1989 and was produced until 1994. There were two body styles available, a hatchback and a coupe. A HUD (Heads Up Display) and a Power Sunroof were available exclusively to the coupe.

For 1991, a revised S13 was released in December of 1990. The front bumper was updated to a more agressive, smoother bumper more fitting with the lines of the car - leaving the boxy 80's syling. For 1991 the 240SX also received a new set of wheels, a 15" 7 spoke design rather than the "teardrop" wheels of the S13a. Optional Factory Side Skirt, Front valence, and rear valence were also made avalible as part of a sports package. Canadian models had Day Time Running lights (DTRL) located underneath the front turn signal indicators. The US version had a grill mesh instead. The interior fabric was upgradedto a thicker material. Leather was standard with LE models, with suede upholstry on the doors and glovebox. The newer model also came with redesigned seats - now sporting adjustable headrests. The steering wheel was changed to true leather as oppose to the hard plastic from the S13a series models.

Availble on the hatchbacks for 1991 was Nissan's HICAS (click for more info) four wheel steering system. HICAS model S13s had a HICAS warning light on the dash, and decals on the sides of the cars in front of the rear wheels. Although priased for it's exceptional handling, bad reviews resulted from the underpowered KA24E power plant. Nissan responded in 1991 by upgrading the engine from a Single Over Head Cam (SOHC) setup to a new Dual Over Head Cam (DOHC). The KA24DE was the second generation of the KA series of engine. It's horse power was stepped up from 140 to 155hp and torque was improved from 152 to 160 ft/lbs.

A factory Viscous Limited Slip Differential (VSLD) system was made available as an option in the US and standard in Canada. In 1993, a convertible version of the coupe was released.


Specifications
1995-1998 S14



Production Numbers

S14 240sx
1995: 25,114
1996: 7,334
1997: 3,655
1998: 2,178

Models and Pricing In US $

1995 Models and MSRP:
Base: $18,099
SE: $21,789

1996 Models and MSRP:
Base: $18,359
SE: $22,249

1997 Models and MSRP:
Base: $18,359
SE: $21,999
LE: $24,449

1998 Models and MSRP:
Base: $18,359
SE: $21,999
LE: $24,449

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JAPAN
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The Nissan S13 was probduced from 1988 to 1998 in Japan. The S13 Silvia (similar to USDM 240SX coupe) was produced from 1989 until 1994. The S13 180SX (similar to USDM 240SX Hatchback) was produced from 1989 until 1998.

Engine options

1988-1990 - CA18DE/CA18DET
1991-1994 - Red top SR20DE/SR20DET
1994-1998 (180SX only) - Black top SR20DET

S13 Silvias came in three trim levels, J's (Jack's), Q's (Queen's) and K's (King's). Only the Silvia K's came with the CA18DET/SR20DET. J's and Q's recieved the CA18DE/SR20DE.

A brief history of the 180SX:


1989
CA18DET standard, only one model was offered.

1990
The standard 1989 model becomes known as the Type I, and the Type II is introduced with leather and air conditioning, etc. Both models had CA18DET.

1991
SR20DET is standard on all models. Updated facia as we all know. Sometimes referred to as the Type III.

1992
New Type V introduced, came with automatic climate control, and CD player.

1994
Blacktop SR20DET, two new types, Type R and Type X are introduced. Type X replaces the Type V, and is better equipped with leather, auto climate control, etc - Type R replaces the Type III. Air conditioners switch from R12 to R134a.

1995
Driver side airbag standard on all models. New wheels for the Type X.

1996
New Type S is introduced, with SR20DE. This is the only NA 180SX.
Type X recieves spoiler, all models get new font bumper and taillights. ABS standard on all models.

1997
Base model Type G is introduced.

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EUROPE
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Available Models: 180SX S13 & Silvia S13, S15 & 200SX S14

Silvia - 1988-1993 (S13) CA18DET 1.8L Turbo (88-91) & SR20DET 2.0L Turbo (91-93)

180sx - 1988-1997 (S13) CA18DET 1.8L Turbo (88-91) & SR20DET 2.0L Turbo (91-97)

200SX - 1993-1999 (S14) SR20DET 2.0L Turbo
Coupe Only

Silvia - 1999-2002 (S15) SR20DET 2.0L Turbo
Coupe, Convertible (Varietta)

[shinmei2006]

CA18DET from a 88-90 Silvia K's

1st - 3.321
2nd - 1.902
3rd - 1.308
4th - 1.000
5th - 0.838

reverse - 3.382
final drive - 4.363

SR20DET from 90-93 Silvia K's

1st - 3.321
2nd - 1.902
3rd - 1.308
4th - 1.000
5th - 0.759

Reverse - 3.382
Final Drive - 4.083

1989-1990 240sx

Drivetrain
Gear Ratios: 1st 3.321
2nd 1.902
3rd 1.308
4th 1.000
5th 0.759
Reverse 3.657
Final Drive 4.083

1991-1993 240SX

Drivetrain
Gear Ratios: 1st 3.321
2nd 1.902
3rd 1.308
4th 1.000
5th 0.759
Reverse 3.657
Final Drive 4.083


1995-1996 240SX

Drivetrain
Gear Ratios: 1st 3.321
2nd 1.902
3rd 1.308
4th 1.000
5th 0.759
Reverse 3.657
Final Drive 4.083

[shinmei2006]

Project AutoX - Battery Relocation - March 15, 2008

Battery Relocation - March 15, 2008

Tools and Materials

• Dremel or grinder with cut-off wheel
• Drill
• (Very) large soldering iron
• Braille B14115 11.5 lb. battery ($149.99 from Braille Auto)
• Aluminum sheet ($32.32 from mcmaster.com) or Braille battery mount
• 4 bolts, nuts, and washers
• 2 self-tapping screws
• Stinger SCB150 150A circuit breaker ($31.23)
• 15 feet of red 0-gauge Stinger power wire ($59.25)
• 5 feet of black 0-gauge Stinger power wire ($19.75)
• 8 0-gauge Stinger ring terminals ($15.96)
• 2 feet of 4-gauge wire
• 1 4-gauge ring terminal
• Rubber grommet
• Electrical tape
• Plastic conduit insulation
• Heat-shrink insulation

I purchased the circuit breaker, 0-gauge wire, and ring terminals from Car Audio Stereo at HiFiSoundconnection. I included the prices for the most expensive or hard to find parts above. Everything else can be purchased inexpensively from most hardware stores or auto parts stores. The battery, custom battery mount, cables, circuit breaker, and ring terminals (only two sets) are shown in the picture to the left.
Instead of buying the Braille battery mount available for the B14115 battery, I made my own using a piece of aluminum sheet metal. This process is documented here.

1. I started by preparing the trunk for the battery and circuit breaker installation. I placed the battery and mount where I wanted them and then marked holes for where to drill through the floor. I raised the car and checked underneath to make sure there was nothing under the floor where I planned to drill.
2. Then, I positioned the circuit breaker and marked the two holes I needed to drill to hold the breaker in place.
3. I drilled out the four holes for the battery mount and two holes for the circuit breaker using a small drill bit.
4. Then I enlarged the battery mounting holes with the same size drill bit that I used for making the holes in the battery mount (11/32 inch).
   
5. Next, I used two self-tapping screws to attach the circuit breaker to the floor. The circuit breaker will act like a resettable fuse in case the positive lead shorts to ground for any reason. It can also be used as a switch to turn off power to the car without having to disconnect the battery terminals.
   
6. With the trunk ready to have the battery installed, I moved under the hood to start wiring. I first removed the battery from the tray.
   
7. I then took some time to remove the old rusty battery tray from the car. I started by pulling off the badly rusted parts of the tray with pliers.
   
8. Then, I used a cut-off wheel on a dremel to cut around the spot welds that hold the battery tray to the chassis. There are three main spot welds right underneath the tray and three spot welds on the side (right above the frame rail). Try to pull the tray upward, and see where the tray is attached to the chassis to identify the spot-welded areas. The second picture shows the area right above the right side frame rail where I've cut the battery tray from the body.
   
   
9. After cutting out most of the battery tray material, I carefully twisted off the spot-welded pieces to break them off of the body.
   
10. I used a grinder to remove any small pieces of the tray that I couldn't pull off with pliers. I'll remove all the rust from that area and paint it when the weather gets better.
    
11. After removing the tray, I started on the wiring. I decided to run the positive cable from the battery straight to the starter. That way, I could remove the starter wire altogether. Then, I could extend the other wires that attach to the positive battery terminal and also run them directly to the starter. The first thing I did was to cut off the connector (red plastic piece in the picture) that allows for the auxiliary wires to attach to the positive terminal.
    
12. That leaves you with these two white wires, which need to be connected to the starter.
    
13. I extended the two white wires by soldering them to another wire that runs to the starter. I actually used two smaller gauge wires (red) connected in parallel since I didn't have an actual piece of 4-gauge wire. I used shrink-wrap insulation to cover the soldered joint. I soldered a 4-gauge ring terminal on the other end of the extension wire to connect to the starter.
    
    
14. Then, I began to remove the stock starter cable. I had to spray WD-40 on the nut that attaches the cable to the starter to get it off. Be careful not to break the starter solenoid while trying to take off this nut.
    
15. After I removed the cable from the starter, I cut apart the plastic conduit insulation that goes around the starter cable (and many other wires). After that, the starter cable can be removed, which leaves you with a mess of other wires that were in the plastic conduit.
    
16. I ran the extended (white wires) to the starter, bundled all of the wires together again, and covered them with a new piece of plastic conduit and electrical tape.
    
17. I soldered a 0-gauge ring terminal on one end of the 15-foot red 0-gauge wire. You will need a very hot soldering iron to heat up a wire this thick. I started by using the soldering iron at the top of the picture but realized that it wasn't hot enough so I switched to the even larger soldering iron at the bottom of the picture.
    
18. I connected the 0-gauge wire and the extended wires together by bolting them to the starter.
    
    
19. I removed the right side kick panel and the plastic piece that runs along the length of the door opening on the floor. Then, I lifted up the carpet slightly so that I could run the cable underneath the carpet.
    
    
20. To get the wire to the battery, I cut out a hole in the firewall to pass the positive cable.
    
21. I inserted a grommet (which I trimmed to match the size of the cable) into the hole and pulled the cable into the car. I gave the cable some slack in the engine bay to allow the engine to move back and forth without pulling the cable.
    
    
22. The last thing I did in the engine bay was to run a ground wire from the engine to the body. I used a 2-gauge wire (ran out of 0-gauge ring terminals), which should not be a problem since it's such a short piece of cable. I ran the wire from the stock grounding point on the engine intake manifold to the right side strut tower. There is a hole in the strut tower covered by a plastic clip. I took out the clip, sanded off the paint for a good connection, and bolted the ring terminal to the strut tower.
    
    
    
23. I ran the positive cable under the ECU and then along the right side of the car underneath the carpet to the back. Then I slid it behind the right side trunk interior panel and out from underneath the panel to the circuit breaker. The first picture shows the cable where it comes out of the firewall and goes behind the right side kick panel.
    
    
    
24. I wrapped the battery in thick foam to protect it from vibration and bolted it to the floor with the battery mount.
25. Then, I soldered a ring terminal to the end of the long positive battery cable and attached it to the circuit breaker. I cut a short piece of the red wire to attach between the battery and the circuit breaker.
    
26. Finally, I cut a piece of the black wire and connected it from the battery to the bolt that holds the left rear seat belt to the chassis. I removed the paint under the bolt with a grinder for a better electrical connection.
    
27. Here's what it looks like with everything installed. I wrapped the positive wires in a loop to eliminate sharp bends in the wires. I probably could have planned this out better, but it came out looking decent.
    
28. Now that I knew exactly where the red cable needed to come out from behind the interior trunk panel, I cut a small notch in the panel.
    

After installing everything, I closed the circuit breaker switch and started the car. It started with no problems at all. I used a battery tester on the battery just to make sure it was getting charged properly.