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Thread: Rebuilding my sr20det (500hp)
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11-06-2008 06:33 PM #1
Rebuilding my sr20det (500hp)
Need a little help with the list of parts and items I need to get before I even start with this project... hope for anything over 400hp to 500hp...
Top End
264 / 272 HKS Camshafts
HKS Cam Gears
Brian Crower Vavle Springs & Retainers
Greedy Rocker Arm Stoppers
ARP Head Studs
Apexi Headgasket 87mm 1.1t
5 Angle Valve Job
Port & Polish on the head
Bottom End
CP Pistons 68.5mm 8:5/1
ARP Rod Bolts
Eagle Rods SOLD
Other Parts
AEM EMS
Garrett gt35r
Full Race Manifold
Tial 44mm Wastegate
1000cc Precision Injectors
Greedy Intake Manifold
Greedy Fuel Rail
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Greedy Lightweight Pulleys
Greedy Type S Blow Off
Koyo Radiator
Flex A Lite Fans
Hybrid Intercooler
ACT 6 puck clutch & flywheel
Tune by Martin

Last edited by STORM; 11-10-2009 at 01:21 AM.


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11-06-2008 06:57 PM #2Army Infantry
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Location
- pinellas
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first of all dont get an ebay turbo manifold unless you want to take it off alot to weld up cracks. my wastegate broke off of mine and i almost ran it over. second buy an ebay greddy intake mani thats knock off and use the money you saved to get a nice exhaust mani. and last definetly dont use a safc as a final tune. a safc should only be used as something to get the car running or just for break in. a rom tune does wonders.
oh and about the bov. i'd probably go with a tial. i used to have a greedy and i didnt like it much
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11-06-2008 07:00 PM #3
seems you got a good list goin on
Dont bother on the Greddy Pulleys Not that big gain for the money more of a Bling factor
I would recommend buying a real H/G Like Apexi or Power Enterprise
dont forget the Fuel pressure regulator
If you want High RPMS go with the TOMEI Solid Lifters
Z32 MAF
Get a Greddy Type-R BOV, I Love Mine never had a problem
Rebuild the bottom end, Balance the crank shaft, Definitely a New Oil pump/water pump and greddy Oil pan
Throw the SAFC in the trash its worthless only thing its good for is Running a Z32 MAF with a stock ECU
Good Stand alones
Haltech
Jim Wolf
Power FC
Wolf 3DLast edited by Sileighty_85; 11-06-2008 at 07:05 PM.

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11-06-2008 07:03 PM #4
Well when my sr was only about 300hp I loved how the greedy blow off sounded but I'm just not sure if it will handle the power I'm trying to have...
Yeah I kind of knew about the manifold but don't really know where I can get a decent one... don't have a lot of money to play around with right now and don't feel like selling my original greedy intake, let me know if you know of any good manifolds for sale and where I can buy it from.
What about getting a stand alone? I really don't feel like spending about $1200+ on a heltech E8 but when I read a little about it it makes me wanna get one right now... so I'm still wondering about that... Right now I have about $1400 to play around with to just put my engine together and later on worry about how to run it I guess... thanks for the comment!


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11-06-2008 07:07 PM #5
I already spend the money on the Greddy Pulleys
but what is done is done... got the Z32MAF sorry forgot to mention that. I knew I was missing something... I need to get the Fuel pressure regulator like you said, thanks for that!
Did not really wanned to mess around with the bottom end, just pistons but I guess it will be a good idea? Some pointers on that? Where can I balance the crank shaft? Real quick question why a new Oil pump/water pump? Those things are expensive
)) As for the greddy Oil pan I just think is wayyyyyy over priced. Thanks for the comment!


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11-06-2008 07:19 PM #6Doesnt see what you did
- Join Date
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- Location
- Tampa, FL
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You cant just slap new pistons in and thats it, you need to have the block bored, put the pistons on the rods and have them balanced, you'll also want to make sure the rods are sized properly at both ends. File fit the rings after the bore / hone. You'll need new bearings, an oil pump, which you'll want the machine shop to have so it can be bolted on when they deck the block.
Figure $750 roughly in machine work to the shortblock.
Add $220 for an oil pump.
$150 for bearings.
$200 for engine gasket kit
ARP rod and main bolts wouldnt be a bad idea. $165 for both, or just $105 for the mains if you only did them.
The $500 you listed for the pistons.
So $1985 for the shortblock.
We're already $585 above your $1400 to just put your engine together.
And still havent even started on the top half of things.
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11-06-2008 07:19 PM #7
since you've planned on rplacing the pistons you might as well take it a step father
Balancing the crank can be done by any competent engine machine shop, it will help with High RPM vibration and bearing life, also have the Crank polished
Dont forget these engine are 16 years old most of them owned my americans beating the shit out of them drifting,
the oil pumps are very prone to failing
Shop here The Nismo Shop : West Covina Nissan : Nissan OEM Oil Pumps
Best SR part store I've come across
there is a new company called ISIS that make affordable aftermarket parts Enjukuracing sells some of them
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11-06-2008 07:32 PM #8
Thanks, I guess If I plan on going close to all out I might as well go all the way... just a quick question is it still a bad idea to leave the rods stock with the cp pistons? I'm kind of yet getting into this so I really don't know much. Just want to do it all at once and have it right so I don't have to mess around it after I put it all together.
Any good shops you recommend in Sarasota to do that kind of stuff? Thanks again for the help!


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11-06-2008 07:34 PM #9
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11-06-2008 07:53 PM #10
For the love of God. Who is this Sileighty 85 guy?
Don't waste your time balancing a stock, unmodified crank on an engine that obviously isn't going above 8k (because it's on hydro lifters still).
The oil pumps are not prone to failing. Take yours apart and check the clearances. Its in the FSM. THEN replace it if it's bad.
Back in the day I have Engine Lab do my bore/hone, several checks, and press and resize the rods for $400 total. Expect to spend about that much.
Get some ARP rod bolts. Get some Nismo/54C mains.
Get Mazwrox to do the mains oiling grove, and buy some bearings for the rods and mains while you're there. They'll tell you what clearances you'll need to make 500whp reliable in that department.
West Covina is OK. I like PerformanceNissanparts.com (Performance Nissan of Duarte, which is right up the street from West Covina). You might also check Phase2Motortrend.com, which, incidently, is about 20min from both of these places.
If you can use a stock regulator, use that. Otherwise the Aeromotive is nice. 750cc injectors will not make it to 500whp. You'll need some 850's for that. Or since you're top feed, 96#'ers.
Jim Wolf is not a standalone. Add AEM EMS to the list of good standalones. I hear RS Enthalpy has done stuff like this before
Apexi gasket is $240. Mazworx will have that in stock.
Don't forget racegas. You won't make 500whp on 93octane at under 8k rpms on a 2.0L. It's thermodynamically impossible. Skip straight to VP import and 25psi.
More after I get back from dinner.
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11-06-2008 07:53 PM #11
Here
CP Pistons Set - Nissan SR20DET - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC
Eagle Connecting Rods - Nissan SR20DET - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC
This kit has a revised Chain guide that is reinforced with a metal backing/brace compared tot he full plastic OEM one
OEM Timing Chain Guide Set - Nissan SR20DET - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC
OEM Water Pump - Nissan SR20DET - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC
The Nismo Shop : West Covina Nissan : Nissan OEM Oil Pumps
Order the S14 One its wider
The Nismo Shop : West Covina Nissan : Nissan OEM SR20DET oil pickup/strainer
The Nismo Shop : West Covina Nissan : Tomei Metal Headgasket - S13/S14/S15
ARP Head Stud Kit - Nissan SR20DET - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC
Maybe this will help a little bit
A machinist shouldnt cost you $750
I paid $300 for
Bore/hone
Balance/polish Crank
Hot tank head/block
Machine the head
Leak check head
Rods assembled to pistonsLast edited by Sileighty_85; 11-06-2008 at 10:37 PM.

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11-06-2008 07:59 PM #12
I'd be the guy That lived in Japan for a couple of years Building SR's and RB's
And Currently Building this S13
My Project SR 56K BEWARE!! - Zilvia.net Forums
I'm just trying to work with his budget and reply back quickly to him. I know im missing a few things due to my quick replays
EDIT:
Yes SR oil pumps do like to fail, I have read countless threads and have had a few firiends pump fail on their SR's.
I highly recommend Replacing a 16 YEAR OLD oil pump while the engine is apart seeing that you have to pull the engine and rip it apart to replace it. and if you have no oil Gauge, by the time you realize you have no oil pressure its too late.
So by spending $150 and installing a brand new OEM pump while everything is apart will save you countless man hours and money when the oil pump dies while racing and welding or spinning bearings
Epstein maybe you dont understand or know the the benefits of balancing crankshafts, I dont feel like typing it all out so heres a link
http://www.amsequipmentsales.com/Cra...ill_Mount.html
(Scroll down to the middle)
Yes Im aware JWT is not a stand alone i ment it as far as tuningLast edited by Sileighty_85; 11-06-2008 at 09:21 PM.

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11-06-2008 08:08 PM #13
Thanks a lot Epstein! I'll check those places this or next week, 500 was really what I was going for but I would like to also go on the save side so anything over 400 I guess I'll be happy with. So I guess I need to save some money and get bigger injectors? Any you may recommend? Thanks again!
Thanks for the links Silegjty_85, seems like I might as well order the pistons from enjuku and I'll make a list and see if I can get some of those stuff you also posted! Thanks!


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11-06-2008 08:12 PM #14
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11-06-2008 08:17 PM #15
Hey Sileighty, if you lived over in Oki, then you know about www.Zeroyon.com. That would be a good place to look for a good manifold for a good price. Just be prepared for shipping.
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