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12-25-2011 08:56 PM #1Registered User
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Finally got ethanol kit working on blue car. but....
I just couldnt make power with it. Just couldnt control knock noise in 2 and 4. Engine was audible noisy when cold. had rod knock sounds. Horrible lifter noises cold and hot. And was burning oil. And I mean burning some serious oil. I has just changed the oil. And after about 1/3rd tank fuel it used about 1.5 quarts oil. So decision was made to tear engine down for freshening up. And holly hell the things I found wrong with her. glad I didnt try to pushing it any harder. 2 and 4 are leaking oil at guides. 4 getting hella lot of oil. either that or horrible eth distribution. But I am leaning toward oil coming from head in that cylinder. no 2 cylinder missing 1/3 of its threads. (poor plug cooling) And last but not least rod bearing wiped out from excessive hot start issues I had with the ID1000s that were in the car last year. on the good side pistons look amazing. No signs of knock whatsoever. I had Zero blow by and seemingly perfect ring seal. and excellent head gasket seal as well. so good news is so far block doesnt have to come out. just needs fresh bearings. just need to build a nice cylinder head for it.









want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV
my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
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12-26-2011 11:45 AM #2Registered User
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How much of the problem would you attribute to the old fuel injectors and head issue? Are you gonna try using this kit again once it's all back together? Is that an Evo X turbo?, pretty cool idea/upgrade over the normal 16g most people tend to go with.
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12-26-2011 02:41 PM #3
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12-26-2011 03:46 PM #4Registered User
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I will use the injection again. Was working very well. I am sure the 4th cylinder looks like that from busted intake guide oil seal.
The turbo is HTA green from evo X. I wanted twin scroll bad enough to retrofit the kit. Been on car for almost two years.
The iridium plugs are the best I have used. Far better than the copper.want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV
my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
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12-27-2011 09:13 AM #5Registered User
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Cool, can't wait to see how it goes once she's back up and running. What type of bearing are you going with this time around? Is there any particular piston you'd suggest for drop-in rebuilds? Now that I think about it I think I remember you writing up your Evo X turbo swap on tuners, have you had it on the dyno, or taken it to the track since it's been done?
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12-27-2011 11:55 AM #6Registered User
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I cant wait either. The cylinder head was stock. Its now getting a lancerman ported head. been massaging it for last two days. Found a really creamy never cut head. Getting super tech undercut intake valves and fresh set of evo 8 exhaust valves. Also gonna install some GSC beehive springs. I suspect valves may have floated at 7500rpm. Plus I may want to try some more aggressive cams once its all dialed in right.
I dont believe money spent on good bearings is really worth it. bearings run on oil film 99% of their life. its that 1% when there is crank contact that a good or bad bearing may make a difference. But from what I have seen, like the dry start problem, there is no better bearing. They will all emerge scored like pics above. so do you want a 20 dollar scored bearing or a 60 dollar scored bearing? Any bearing that has a soft babbit for first coating works for me. its that soft layer that can absorb any small small particles that would other wise score crank with a hard bearing. When money is not an issue I like the ACL race bearings.
car has only been on dyno twice and track I think three times. kinda bashful in those areas. daily driven hard though. fun car..
All drop in pistons are pretty good if block is prepped correctly. Most people make mistake of using too heavy grit hone and then not cleaning bores correctly. you are better off not touching bores and just drop them in literally.want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV
my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
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12-27-2011 09:57 PM #7Registered User
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ready to do battle. intake ports slightly tweaked. left rough for best results with alky injection. helps atomize fuel. lots of time on exhaust ports. should spool a couple hundred rpm faster now. and hold torque better to redline. and polished chambers for better overall performance. less heat lost to head, more in chamber. heat =power. this head will wake this baby up.



want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV
my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
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12-27-2011 09:59 PM #8Tampa Bay Tuned Inc.
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looking good Jerry!!

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12-27-2011 10:36 PM #9
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12-27-2011 11:55 PM #10
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12-28-2011 10:08 PM #11Registered User
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Thanks. Cylinder head works takes time. I have 15 or so hours in this head. Could have spent more time. Thats why car had relatively stock head before. just spent over 500 in parts and 15 hours with an exceptional core as starting point. I see why most shops charge 1200-1600 for this type of work.
Didnt get much done today. had to work on other things. But spent 2.5 hours rebuilding the water neck.
want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV
my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
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12-28-2011 10:19 PM #12
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12-28-2011 10:41 PM #13
Why is there a cap on the water neck?
Tom N
94 Mitsubishi EVO I ( no times yet )
91 Galant VR-4
11.497 @ 119.55 (16g power)

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12-29-2011 02:18 AM #14Registered User
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My colt had one of those too. I don't even know from what car those water necks are feom
98 talon awd automagic
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12-29-2011 02:29 AM #15
Looks like stock 2g to me.
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