Mitsubishi Tech AWD and all things DSM Central

Commonly Asked Dsm Questions And Issues

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Old 04-22-2005, 08:56 PM
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Exclamation Commonly Asked Dsm Questions And Issues

Where should I look for answers to questions before posting?
1000 Questions People Already Asked

How do I install *insert modification*?
VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions
The VFAQ is your friend!

4G63 in a 420a powered 2G (short answer is NO.)
https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/m...e-420-car.html

What is a DSM?
A joint effort by Mitsubishi (three diamonds) and the Chrysler Corporation (penta-star) to build some of the most incredible automobiles in the world. The vehicles were produced with the names Eagle Talon, Mitsubishi Eclipse, and Plymouth Laser. DSM cars are assembled in Normal, Illinois. The '94-and-up Mitsubishi Galant is also assembled at the DSM plant in IL; previous Galant's were assembled in Japan. The Eclipse and Galant (since '89) share the same platform.

Are 2Gs (second generation, 1995+ cars) really DSMs?
2G cars are considered DSMs because they are direct descendants of the original DSM cars. Although they were technically not built by Diamond Star Motors, their connection to the original line is unmistakable, as they share the name, trim levels and original intention of the 1G cars.

Also, some early 95 cars have DSM labeling on them, leading many to believe that all 2Gs were built by Diamond Star Motors. This is not the case, as Diamond Star Motors officially ceased to exist in mid-1993, when Chrysler sold off all of its Mitsubishi holdings, technically making the 1994 cars the last of the DSMs. This type of hair-splitting is not important for Club purposes, however, and the Club has decided that 2Gers have as much right to be included as earlier owners.

Is it possible to swap a 4G63 into my RS/GS eclipse?
Anything is possible, but this is not practical. There will be a lot of custom fabrication needed and the motor mounts will not match up. You are probably better of just buying a turbo'ed DSM.

Mitsubishi Turbo information
TDO4-13G-5CM2 360 CFM (stock turbo on automatic 1g)
TDO5H-14B-6CM2 405 CFM (stock turbo on 5speed 1g)
TDO5H-16G-10CM2 505 CFM
TDO6H-20G-14CM2 650 CFM
TDO7S-25G-17CM2 850 CFM

Max output from various turbos
TD05-14B (stock 1st gen) 275-300hp @ 21 psi
TD05-16G (small) 345-365hp @ 24 psi
TD06-16G (large) 365-385hp @ 24 psi
EvoIII 16G 385-420hp @ 25 psi
TD06-20G 430-450hp @ 25 psi
T25 (stock 2nd gen) 235-250hp @ 17 psi
T3 (super 60)/T2.5 hybrid 265-280hp @ ?? psi
T3 (super 60)/T2.8 hybrid 270-320hp @ ?? psi

What should my next mod be?
Buschur Racing - Your source for Mitsubishi racing parts and accessories

Should I turbo my 420a? How much will it cost? How hard is it?
check out this site for all RS and GS questions 2GNT.com

Any 3000GT and Stealth related questions click here.
3Si.org || 3000GT/Stealth International

3G Eclipse Links-
Club3G Forums - The Original 2000+ Eclipse Authority
Club 3G - EclipseForums.org

What is crankwalk? All crankwalk questions can be answered here
http://www.nx2k.com/eclipse/crank_walk.htm

What is a 6 bolt? What is a 7 bolt? What is the difference? What is my car?
The 6 bolt 7 bolt refers to how many bolts hold on the flywheel. Some differences in the engine's include stock turbo size, exhaust housing size, intake manifold, agressiveness of the cams, and engine managment. While 7 bolt engines can be built up just as much as the 6 bolt's, DSM'ers prefer 6 bolts becuase they are more reliable, and less likely to crankwalk. Generally speaking, if you own a 1g built in 90, 91, and early 92 you have a 6 bolt, and if you own a 1g built in late 92, 93, 94, or a 2g you have a 7 bolt.

How do I know if my BOV is venting to the atmosphere or not? Is there any advatnage to venting to the atmosphere?
There is a dumptube that comes off of your intake pipe. If the tube is hooked up to the BOV/CBV then you are recirculating, not venting. And vice versa. There is absolutly no advantage to venting to the atmosphere, actually its a disadvantage. Recirculating is better for our cars becuase when you vent, you are letting out air that you ECU already counted. Inbetween shifts your car is going to fall flat on its face, you are going to run rich inbetween shifts, possible idle problems, and the car might stall when shifting from a gear to neutral so dont do it, unless you want a loud ass ricey whooooshh.

Which BOV is best? Which BOV sounds the coolest? I want to know b/c im a ricer!!!
A. Greddy Type S - This BOV was made popular by turbo civics running 7 psi on a kit using whatever oddball mitsu turbo Greddy felt like saddling them with- but that doesn't mean it won't work at 20 psi on a DSM. It has a high pitched whistle, and the best part is, it will recirculate easily. However, its drawbacks are that it wont hold high pressure, ~24psi is its limit(which is plenty for the majority of us), and the diaphram goes bad after time.

B. HKS Super Seqential - This BOV is a little more unique than the majority of other BOV's. It uses a pull type valve that can not leak under any amount pressure, making it perfect for high boost applications. It also has a whistle type sound, but its much deeper, and a single "PHHSSTTTT". Drawback is it does not recirculate without a recirculation kit.

C. Turbo XS RFL - Thie one is known for the being the single most loudest blow off valve ever. It does not recirculate, and has nothing special to offer other than being really f'ing loud(which is why the name is RFL).

D. 1g Crushed CBV - This one is probably the most popular for the average "got to get it done cheap and fast" dsmer. This one is basically like the Type S, but it does not look nice under the hood. It definetly gets the job done, and for around $50, who can argue?

E. Gary Donovan Turbo Dodge modded 1G CBV-
This is a mod that allows the stock 1G valve to hold very high boost pressures at the track without the downsides of crushing the bov the rest of the time. The downside is that while in high boost mode, the valve is not capable of opening as quickly, and there is a risk of some compressor surge while waiting for the valve to open. Of course, once you get set up with a stutterbox and no-lift-to-shift, you should only be lifting once at the end of the 1/4 mile, so it shouldn't be too big a problem .
DDG- Talon BOV mod for HIGH BOOST


I want to convert my automatic transmission to a manual, is it possible? how much?
Yes it is possible but dont do it. Way too much labor and money involved with very few benifits. You would be better off selling your current vehicle and buying one that is already manual.

How does an SAFC work? How do I tune with an SAFC?
DSM SAFC
/\/\/\General Description and Theory of SAFC

Piggyback Tuning Guide
/\/\/\The tuning guide.

RRE's Super AFC Setting and Adjustment Tips


How do I burn my own chips with modified ecu images?
As promised, here is a write up on what you need to get started with DIY rom tuning for your 1g DSM.

First off, you need an EPROM ECU. You need to have it socketed and you might as well have it recapped. A lot of them have acid damage if they haven't been capped, which will require a trip to an ECU specialist to make sure nothing has been killed and to replace any components that might have died.

If you don't already have one, you need a standard datalogger cable. Mine was about 40 bucks from ebay, setup to work with my laptop and TMO software. I believe they go for around 30 bucks now.

You need a computer and a way to get the information from the computer into the EPROM chip. If you've only got a desktop, or you just want to go cheap with it (like me) you need a regular EPROM burner. You can pick one of these up on ebay for around 40-50 bucks.
eBay Search: Find Items

If you have the money to spend and a laptop to tune with, an excellent romulator sold by Craig Moates lets you tune in real time, changing parameters on the fly. With this you basically have all the benefits of DSMLink; minus the excellent datalogging, the simply terrific message board knowledge base, and the extreme ease of use. On the plus side you can do more with this, and it costs less than half as much .
http://www.moates.net/product_info....&products_id=57

If you go the Burner/Chip route, you'll need chips. I recommend Atmel 29c's because you can leave the burner in one configuration and simply rewrite them. Believe me, you don't want to be sitting in the dark on the side of the road fiddling with jumpers and dip switches to erase your ST512 just to save a dollar per chip- I learned the hard way.
http://www.moates.net/product_info....&products_id=38

The person who sockets your ECU will probably install a DIP socket. Slimline, cheap, good for people who don't intend to switch chips ten times in 20 minutes. As that is exactly what you'll be doing, get a ZIF socket to plop down in the DIP socket to make chip swapping very easy.
http://www.moates.net/product_info....&products_id=44

Now that you've got the hardware setup, what do you do with all of it?
That's where the software comes into play. I would never have recommended ROM Tuning to the average dsmer a year or two back because it was largely uncharted territory editing half-understood codes in raw hex. Nowadays most of the important functions are well understood, and better yet, you don't have to understand them.

evilscribe.net
It's a GUI based rom image editor. You load a stock E931 map, set your injector size, dead time, maf compensation, rev limit, idle, everything through menus and text boxes, and then go to town tuning with 3D fuel and timing maps. You don't have to know a single thing about hex or assembly.

So, you edit a rom image, you burn it to a chip using the software that came with your burner, you've got it dropped into your ECU and your car is fully tuned, running great. That's good, but you can do even more if you're willing to delve into the raw code. Kyle Terry has a page with lots of basic changes you can make that add the "bling factor" stuff that made TMO chips so damn cool back in the day, and that Keydiver chips do for people today.
http://users.wpi.edu/~ktarry/dsmtec...omedit.html#top

You need a hex editor to do these, as well as a working knowledge of the addressing scheme of the ECU, and a basic understanding of how the hexadecimal system works. If you screw up, the most likely result will be a car that clicks the MPI relay a lot and won't start, but there is the off chance that you could change something that will let the car run, but only long enough to blow up. Extreme caution is advised when working with the raw code. Enough covering my ass for giving you this info, here's the editor:
WinHex: Computer Forensics & Data Recovery Software, Hex Editor & Disk Editor

Now you're lauching off a 5500 rpm stutterbox and no lift to shifting your way through the gears, you can cruise at 104 mph in closed loop, and you aren't burdened by a pesky octane map dragging your timing down. Are you at the peak of what you can do with this setup? Hell no. Here's where hours, and hours, and hours, and a lot more hours of studying come into play. The DSM-ECU archives are where the information all of the top minds in the dsm ecu hacking game have compiled has come to rest, free for anybody with enough free time to read it all. I have, and so should you, if you're interested in continuing with it. You can start to understand the code, and make your own changes, and if you're really good with programming, you can do pretty much anything. Some of the projects the wizards on that list are tackling include converting the ecu code to C+, speed density, native GM maf support, on-the-fly inside-ecu changes from a logger interface, and other cool stuff. If you get to that level, congrats- I struggle with making my own basic code work even after reading the whole damn list and a 500 page HC11 manual. I'm slowly learning the in's and outs, but it doesn't happen overnight.
http://www.dsm-ecu.com/archive/

There, that's about all there is to it. There's a lot of details I've skipped that you should be able to figure out on your own. All the information you need is in front of you.
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Last edited by Tom N; 04-11-2007 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 12-30-2006, 06:47 PM
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