travishoward

I'll be picking up my first miata within the next few weeks and starting a build thread, always been a Honda guy, but I'm moving on to new things!

ill be swapping an na s5 13b into the car I get, currently looking at a mint m series 97!
picking up the swap trans tomorrow (m5 trans with 13b bellhousing and shortened input shaft)
also my na s5 13b long block will be shipped in hopefully by next weekend.

i know I know! "Don't buy the swap until you have the car"
well I myself, am very hardheaded. Once I have my mind set on a project, I see it through til the end!


enough about that, I'm posting as a "hello there" thread, wanting to get to know everyone for when I run in to problems with my new found interests


Post away!
- Travis

rotarykidd

Pm me if you want help on the wiring. I wired up a s5 with s4 electronics in my corolla.

Also, welcome to the hell that is rotary swapped cars.

landon303

i know a little bit about RX-7s too

travishoward

Ill probably need some help with the wiring lol, it's not as simplistic as a Honda. Well, from what I can see now. I'll know more once the long lock gets here. Picked up the swap trans today for $120!
ill post a pic here shortly. Hopefully you rotary guys aren't as ignorant as half the Honda people I've dealt with through the years lol. I'll be rebuilding the 13b and doing a large streetport with the pineapple racing schematics. Looking for a fun 190rwhpish go kart!

travishoward

What's the most common problems with these rotary swaps? Other than the heat they put off and the cooling needed for one. Feel free to post any/all helpful advice and hands on experience!

travishoward

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landon303

Ha I think Kyle's just butt hurt about rotaries, I think they're pretty straight forward. Is that the tranny that was on CL, down in sarasota?

If you keep it w/o any emissions, it's going to be pretty easy. Watch out for the DUMB electronic OMP that the S5 has- a lot of times it dies & then throws a limp mode command out, and you're now driving a moron car. You can either buy another used OMP for probabaly $50, or just get the chip which over-rides it in the ecu programming and run either premix or a front cover from another car w/ electric oil metering.

Obviously keep it cool: you'll need an oil cooler for SURE, oil cooling is 40% of the engine's overall heat rejection. Also run it with a thermostat. On the S5 I'd recommend switching to an aftermarket cast metal vs. composite OEM thermostat cover, they're available @ rotary13B1.com.

You'll need "snippets" from an S5 body harness to get all the proper wiring connections. Kyle knwos allllllllll about that hahaha. As of right now there's a '90 at clearwater LKQ (LKQ 190 - LKQ Pick Your Part Clearwater, Florida) which will be a good donor for those plugs. Most, if not all of the plugs from an s4 (86-8 car won't work, they're a different mold.

If that's the trans I'm thinking of, a lot of times they're swapped into FCs (well maybe not a lot but I've heard of it beign done a few tiems) and it's like a giant leap in power, from the shorter gears. W/ a street port & however many less pounds that shell will weigh... it's going to fly!

I'd also suggest getting atkins rotary 5/6 port sleeves, and either wiring them open on the manifold, or actually making it function (this goes for the VDI too).

And there's almost no one who posts in mazda tech, haha. maybe because i bought ALL their rx7s? haha

travishoward

lol! how many rx7s do you have?

are the atkins sleeves and the pineapple sleeves any different from eachother? green loctite with those, right?

with just the large streetport, i believe i can still run the oem injectors, and miata fuel pump/fuel system, correct me if im wrong

my buddy has a buddy (one of those know somebody that knows somebody kinda deals) who does fab work, i think im gonna buy aftermarket rx7 mounts (the hardest ones i can find next to full billet), and have him fab up a subframe for clearance and have brackets made to work with those mounts, not trying to do the whole 12a front thing.
and with that subframe (based off the v8roadster one) i should hardly have to notch the oil pan, and hardly modify the trans tunnel.

travishoward

but yes thats the trans, the guy was really cool. and the tranny seems to be in good shape. i obviosuly wont know forsure though until i either take it apart, or have it in the car..

im getting the 13b off of ebay, with a 14 day warranty, from mrmazda (whom has very good seller ratings) for 699 shipped to my door. already put a $100 down payment on it.

what do you think about this rebuild kit mazda Rx7 re-build kit
how extensive is this, enough?

landon303

haha i have 13. lol. 83 GSL, 83 GS, 84 GSL, 86 base? (i think a guy bought it as a stripped shell after crashing an S5 GTU & swapped everything over, bout the only thing S4 on it is the door jam sticker lol.) 3 87 sports( i like them the most), 87 T2 shell (donor car), 87 base, 88 base T2 swap, from the donor, 89 vert, 89 GTUs, 91 a pkg.

yes the sleeves are different, the atkins ones are approx 25$ more but are worlds safter, as rather than in insert being pinned in place, it's an entire part which is machined from one billet of aluminum, so there isn't a huge hunk of metal that can potentially just like, fall out. haha. safe!

youll be just fine on those stock injectors. however youll probably want to do a SAFC or something to tune the fuel levels some. there's bound to be TONS of info about this on 7club. Sadly for you i keep everything (except for a few) 100% stock down to the cassette player & catylitic converters.

Umm I dunno about the miata pump but I DO KNOW that you want 28-32 PSI running WITH oem FPR hooked up, measured before the rebulator (usually right after the fuel filter on an FC< which is at the frame rail drivers side) So just compare what a miata runs at, i can't imagine it's too far off. This will help you out:

RotaryHeads.com - 2nd Gen RX-7 PDF Technical Manuals FC3S

i think what you mean by "hardest except for full billet" is something with a high derometer. ha! sounds like true go kart status, will you run A/C?\

i bought a set of tail lights from that dude, decent enough guy i guess. sucks you only have 14 days to warranty it, that's kinda BS. I'd recommend a coolant leak down test (fill w/ water, hook up a radiator ressure gauge or just some sort of way of applying air pressure over the water, pressurize up to operating pressure, spec'd at 13psi, & just make sure that shit isn't getting into the rotor housings). Oh wait you said you were gonna rebuild, well no big deal then. Don't pinch a coolant seal when re-assembling!

That dude's rebuild kits, ehh, haha, there's not much info around supporting him, i belive the coolant seal o rings are just purchased from mcmaster or some other mech supply source, i'd recommend getting a rebuild kit from atkins rotary, that's the one i used when i rebuilt the S5 (BTW, that's the engine that went in the corolla kyle has above). I put 27K on that engine & it's still running strong. Even took itup to the deals gap rotary rally in TN & romped on it for a week up there, then drove home fine. No complaints! Didn't even smoke when I sold it either!

Well have fun look forward to your next post