This is a list to try and help some of you out. I've had way too many people over the years come for tuning and were not ready. I will try to update this as much as I can and keep it in an easy to read format

* Engine

Compression Test

Compression test your engine. Compression is also highly dependant upon camshafts being used.

- 8:1-8.5:1 compression: 150-170 psi per cylinder
- 8.5:1 to 9.5:1 compression: 170-210 psi per cylinder
- 9.5:1 to 11:1 compression: 210-275 psi per cylinder
- 11:1+ compression: 250+ per cylinder

You should NOT have more than 20psi variance between cylinders. If you do please consult me first. If you have any questions about your compression test please e-mail and/or shared_pm me.

Valve Lash

This is a huge conern I have. A lot of customers don't set or even check their valve lash for the cams being used. If you don't know what your lash should be or need help checking it. Please e-mail or shared_pm me. ALL valve adjustments are to be done with a cold engine.

Timing Belt and Time

The timing belt, tensioner and everything else assoiated shouldn't have high miles and install correctly. Minimal to no slack. If you have your doubts please e-mail or shared_pm me. The engine also needs to be on time. Meaning the cam and crank marks need to line up. I can't say how many times I have had a customer come for tuning and this be off. It's not my job to check this prior to tuning.

Oil and Oil Leaks

Ideally you want your oil to be fresh when you come for tuning. Make sure you have the right brand oil and right grade oil for your engine. If you have questions about either please e-mail or shared_pm me. I'm very lenient when it comes to oil leaks. I understand not everything is seen. But. If you come to tune with a moderate to severe oil leak you will be sent away.

Clutch

Again. I'm very lenient when it comes to clutch setups. I ask a few things. Make sure the pedal is adjusted. Make sure if your clutch requires a pedal stop it is there. Make sure the system is bled correcly.

Turbo

First things first. Use the right couplers and clamps. I'm not saying you have togo out and buy Wiggins clamps. But. Please use three ply couplers and t-bolt clamps. Have your pipe ends bead rolled. If you don't have the money, time or whatever other excuse to bead rolls you can create a hump on the pipe ends with JB Weld. If you need three ply couplers and/or t-bolt clamps please e-mail or shared_pm me.

Boost leak test your system. If you don't know how todo this properly with compressed air and water please e-mail or shared_pm me.

Make sure all your clamps, connection and bolts are tight. An exhaust leak pre-turbo is going to hurt power and spool.

Don't put your o2 bung where I can't access it or fit my sensor.

Try to spend money on a quality blowoff valve. We prefer TiAL. If you need pricing on a TiAL with the proper spring please e-mail or shared_pm me.

Use the right feed and return lines. Your oil feed inlet should be as close to 12 o'clock as possible. Your return line should go straight down and into the oil pan. No kinks, turns, going up, etc.

Don't bring a car with a manual boost controller. 80% of systems out there offer boost control. If you don't know if your's does or want to get your's setup please e-mail or shared_pm me.

Exhaust

If you're turbocharged the car needs to have a minimum 3" downpipe, test pipe and exhaust.

All motor cars vary from engine to engine. Typically a B series will be fine with a 2.5" exhaust. H and K series need to have a 3" exhaust.

Catalytic Converter

DO NOT COME FOR TUNING IF YOU HAVE A CATALYTIC CONVERTER

MORE TO COME ...