senor honda

Someone asks:
I bought a 98 integra shell, I was told its an RS but it has a sunroof so I think it was just ABS deleted, vin is a DC4. Car was an auto to manual swap and has an Omega Mundial4 security system.

I'm having some trouble with the wiring and I understand you're pretty good with Honda stuff. Car won't crank from the ignition, I can jump the starter with a probe and it'll crank all day but not from the ignition switch. I can't figure out why this stupid thing won't start and I now suspect it's either A: The security system (though even with the Valet bypass enable it won't crank) or B: The clutch switch (there's no clutch switch on the pedal leading me to believe it's been jumped to itself though I don't know which wires to look for off the harness.

Car is obd2a jumped to a obd1 ecu, I used a lot of parts including the ecu from my running yellow 96 DC4 so the parts should all be good but idk about dash relays. Is there a basic list of things I can check w/ diagrams and whatnot?

Thanks in advance,
Logan

senor honda

Senor Honda's reply:
Re: 98 Integra Wiring

First check under the dash for something that has a plastic female plug in the area of the brake pedal with 2 wires coming out the back of it. That might be the former brake switch. also check to see if the brake lights come on when pedal is pushed....then get back with me with what you found, color of wires, etc.


Originally Posted by name witheld
I bought a 98 integra shell, I was told its an RS but it has a sunroof so I think it was just ABS deleted, vin is a DC4. Car was an auto to manual swap and has an Omega Mundial4 security system.

I'm having some trouble with the wiring and I understand you're pretty good with Honda stuff. Car won't crank from the ignition, I can jump the starter with a probe and it'll crank all day but not from the ignition switch. I can't figure out why this stupid thing won't start and I now suspect it's either A: The security system (though even with the Valet bypass enable it won't crank) or B: The clutch switch (there's no clutch switch on the pedal leading me to believe it's been jumped to itself though I don't know which wires to look for off the harness.

Car is obd2a jumped to a obd1 ecu, I used a lot of parts including the ecu from my running yellow 96 DC4 so the parts should all be good but idk about dash relays. Is there a basic list of things I can check w/ diagrams and whatnot?

Thanks in advance,
Logan

senor honda

Further info:
Re: 98 Integra Wiring

Brake lights do come on wires are green and white and solid white it looks like

senor honda

Senor Honda's reply:
[h=2]Re: 98 Integra Wiring[/h] If it was auto, it enabled the starter thru the brake light switch. If brake lights work, but starter doesn't work with the key, I would suspect the ignition switch.

Keep the key to cut the car on. Install a manual start button from a Nissan to turn the starter.

Originally Posted by name witheld

Brake lights do come on wires are green and white and solid white it looks like

senor honda

The person solves the problem:

Hey, resolved the issue with assistance from my brother whos a mechanic, he traced some bad wiring to the park switch thing, I guess when you do an auto to manual swap you have to jump the wires of the sensor that tells the ignition that the car is in park and the wiring the previous owner did didn't hold up over time, connected those wires and it fired right up. Successful b20z2 swap ^^ thanks for the help though.

senor honda

Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for letting me know...that's how we get smarter.
With some cars, the brake pedal must be pushed in...with some auto trans cars,
there is a switch going to the park position....with some cars..... both are in place.

I prefer the brake pedal to trip the switch...if you are driving and it stalls,
it can be restarted easier, instead of having to pull off the road, then stop
completely and put the car into park for a restart. In traffic, it's not easy
to just pull off the road.

senor honda

One wiring tip:

Don't EVER use the blue squeeze type connectors with a lid that closes
over the connector.....over time they almost always have intermittent electrical problems.

Might be great and fast for temporary Uhaul trailers, but bad for a car that is
driven often.