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95 Acura Integra running extremely rough

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Old 04-26-2013, 03:58 AM
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Default 95 Acura Integra running extremely rough

Okay hopefully I can get some help here... I have a 95 Acura Integra with a JDM b16a went to the beach a few days ago and parked on the causeway somewhat of an incline when i left the car was started running really rough and was basically falling face while trying to drive. I was a little low on gas so stopped at 7-Eleven and put $25 in car was still running extremely rough and had no power trying to drive or accelerate. Later that night after I drove it home noticed the catalytic converter was glowing red. Removed the cat and hollowed it out assuming that was the issue. But still car is running extremely rough. Also used seafoam and fuel system cleaner to run through the system because I thought maybe parking on the incline might have messed up the gas system. Completely lost now not sure where the problem is.... Any suggestions...

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Old 04-26-2013, 04:27 AM
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is it breaking up kinda like loss of fuel?
Old 04-26-2013, 08:15 AM
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Yes kind of just feels like it has no power at all. i put my foot to the floor and it just dosnt want to go. Also sounds rough.

Originally Posted by garrettsmotorsports
is it breaking up kinda like loss of fuel?
Old 04-27-2013, 07:28 AM
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when you give 100% throttle does it bog and backfire sort of?
Old 04-29-2013, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by garrettsmotorsports
when you give 100% throttle does it bog and backfire sort of?
Yes it does like it wants to go but can't ot starts to choke. I did a compression test and had to 210 on all four cylinders.
Old 04-30-2013, 05:59 AM
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Okay so an update, replaced plugs they were pretty bad, after replacing them now car wont turn over sounds like its out of gas, replaced fuel filter also and still wont start (tried starting fluid and nothing). someone please any ideas.
Old 04-30-2013, 08:56 AM
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Hard to diagnose. I would be extremely concerned with the fact that your cat was clogged and probably heated up the motor. Did your car run Hot? Do you have any coolant in oil or vice versa? You should perform a leakdown test, now that you got the compression readings.
You should put a gauge on the fuel rail or filter to be sure you have proper pressure and leave it on as it is excellent for troubleshooting.
All your problems might be Distributor related...bad ICM or bad coil. When you said it won't start on starting fluid it is making me think it is a spark problem. Do these tests or borrow a buddies Dizzy and see what happens.

Tools required

- Phillips Screwdriver
- Digital Multi-Meter
- 12-Volt Light Probe
- A friend

Start by removing the 3 rotor cap screws:



Next, we remove the rotor. Do this by first removing the Phillips screw, then wedge a couple of flathead screwdrivers behind and pull.

Next, pull off the dust shield to expose the coil and ICM.





Test the primary coil by first setting the multi-meter to ohms:



Then measure the resistance between the two screw terminals:



The resistance should fall between 0.6 and 0.8 ohms for the primary coil.

Next is to measure the secondary coil resistance:


The resistance should fall between 12.8K and 19.2K ohms for the secondary coil.
Next we will test the input signal to the ICM

To do this, first PUT THE COIL BACK IN and attach the wires to the screw terminals, then disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN and BLU spade connectors from the ICM.



Set the multi-meter to Volts DC (VDC)



Now, turn on the ignition to position 2 (don’t start the car) and measure the following:
- Between BLK/YEL and GND, there should be +12V
- Between WHT/BLU and GND, there should be +12V

Finally we test the ICM (Igniter module).

Before testing, reconnect the wires to the ICM that you removed while testing the input signal.
To test the ICM, take the 12V light probe and attach the alligator clip to the positive battery terminal:



Now, put the probe tip into the negative coil screw and have a friend crank the engine:



Removing the Coil and ICM





If none of these tests fail and you are certain you still do not have spark, it is possible that the coil is internally grounded. To test for this, Place one meter probe on one terminal and the other to a chassis ground. Test the second terminal as well. You should NOT get a reading. The meter should stay peaked and say 0L or indicate that the resistance is above its measurement ability.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:00 AM
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switch ur map sensor with a friend and if u have a friend with a civic or integra from 92-93 up to 97 u can switch ecus and try to see if it makes a difference .. just trial and error everything u can
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Old 06-02-2013, 02:14 PM
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Come check us out to solve all your mechanic needs at 4745 126th ave n Clearwater Florida 33672 disston terminals lot 29,21 CoCoSPEEDPERFORMANCE MON-FRI 10:30am-7pm we will be more than happy to service you for a fair price.
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