95 Acura Integra running extremely rough
95 Acura Integra running extremely rough
Okay hopefully I can get some help here... I have a 95 Acura Integra with a JDM b16a went to the beach a few days ago and parked on the causeway somewhat of an incline when i left the car was started running really rough and was basically falling face while trying to drive. I was a little low on gas so stopped at 7-Eleven and put $25 in car was still running extremely rough and had no power trying to drive or accelerate. Later that night after I drove it home noticed the catalytic converter was glowing red. Removed the cat and hollowed it out assuming that was the issue. But still car is running extremely rough. Also used seafoam and fuel system cleaner to run through the system because I thought maybe parking on the incline might have messed up the gas system. Completely lost now not sure where the problem is.... Any suggestions...
Last edited by destinybaby78; 04-26-2013 at 04:16 AM.
Okay so an update, replaced plugs they were pretty bad, after replacing them now car wont turn over sounds like its out of gas, replaced fuel filter also and still wont start (tried starting fluid and nothing). someone please any ideas.
Hard to diagnose. I would be extremely concerned with the fact that your cat was clogged and probably heated up the motor. Did your car run Hot? Do you have any coolant in oil or vice versa? You should perform a leakdown test, now that you got the compression readings.
You should put a gauge on the fuel rail or filter to be sure you have proper pressure and leave it on as it is excellent for troubleshooting.
All your problems might be Distributor related...bad ICM or bad coil. When you said it won't start on starting fluid it is making me think it is a spark problem. Do these tests or borrow a buddies Dizzy and see what happens.
Tools required
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Digital Multi-Meter
- 12-Volt Light Probe
- A friend
Start by removing the 3 rotor cap screws:
Next, we remove the rotor. Do this by first removing the Phillips screw, then wedge a couple of flathead screwdrivers behind and pull.
Next, pull off the dust shield to expose the coil and ICM.
Test the primary coil by first setting the multi-meter to ohms:
Then measure the resistance between the two screw terminals:
The resistance should fall between 0.6 and 0.8 ohms for the primary coil.
Next is to measure the secondary coil resistance:
The resistance should fall between 12.8K and 19.2K ohms for the secondary coil.
Next we will test the input signal to the ICM
To do this, first PUT THE COIL BACK IN and attach the wires to the screw terminals, then disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN and BLU spade connectors from the ICM.
Set the multi-meter to Volts DC (VDC)
Now, turn on the ignition to position 2 (don’t start the car) and measure the following:
- Between BLK/YEL and GND, there should be +12V
- Between WHT/BLU and GND, there should be +12V
Finally we test the ICM (Igniter module).
Before testing, reconnect the wires to the ICM that you removed while testing the input signal.
To test the ICM, take the 12V light probe and attach the alligator clip to the positive battery terminal:
Now, put the probe tip into the negative coil screw and have a friend crank the engine:
Removing the Coil and ICM
If none of these tests fail and you are certain you still do not have spark, it is possible that the coil is internally grounded. To test for this, Place one meter probe on one terminal and the other to a chassis ground. Test the second terminal as well. You should NOT get a reading. The meter should stay peaked and say 0L or indicate that the resistance is above its measurement ability.
You should put a gauge on the fuel rail or filter to be sure you have proper pressure and leave it on as it is excellent for troubleshooting.
All your problems might be Distributor related...bad ICM or bad coil. When you said it won't start on starting fluid it is making me think it is a spark problem. Do these tests or borrow a buddies Dizzy and see what happens.
Tools required
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Digital Multi-Meter
- 12-Volt Light Probe
- A friend
Start by removing the 3 rotor cap screws:
Next, we remove the rotor. Do this by first removing the Phillips screw, then wedge a couple of flathead screwdrivers behind and pull.
Next, pull off the dust shield to expose the coil and ICM.
Test the primary coil by first setting the multi-meter to ohms:
Then measure the resistance between the two screw terminals:
The resistance should fall between 0.6 and 0.8 ohms for the primary coil.
Next is to measure the secondary coil resistance:
The resistance should fall between 12.8K and 19.2K ohms for the secondary coil.
Next we will test the input signal to the ICM
To do this, first PUT THE COIL BACK IN and attach the wires to the screw terminals, then disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN and BLU spade connectors from the ICM.
Set the multi-meter to Volts DC (VDC)
Now, turn on the ignition to position 2 (don’t start the car) and measure the following:
- Between BLK/YEL and GND, there should be +12V
- Between WHT/BLU and GND, there should be +12V
Finally we test the ICM (Igniter module).
Before testing, reconnect the wires to the ICM that you removed while testing the input signal.
To test the ICM, take the 12V light probe and attach the alligator clip to the positive battery terminal:
Now, put the probe tip into the negative coil screw and have a friend crank the engine:
Removing the Coil and ICM
If none of these tests fail and you are certain you still do not have spark, it is possible that the coil is internally grounded. To test for this, Place one meter probe on one terminal and the other to a chassis ground. Test the second terminal as well. You should NOT get a reading. The meter should stay peaked and say 0L or indicate that the resistance is above its measurement ability.
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Jdm b18c R LSD CRX si
TR "Old Skool EF" Member #96
JoKie TuNinG
RANGCRX BUILT TYPE R
StricKlyMT
727-510-6301
Jdm b18c R LSD CRX si
TR "Old Skool EF" Member #96
JoKie TuNinG
RANGCRX BUILT TYPE R
StricKlyMT
727-510-6301
switch ur map sensor with a friend and if u have a friend with a civic or integra from 92-93 up to 97 u can switch ecus and try to see if it makes a difference .. just trial and error everything u can
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300zx n/a blown thenTRADED
S14 ka semi built TRADED
S13 coupe Sr20det STOLEN
EG9 z6-t(swapped)LS turbo(blew)b20 turbo(traded)
EG6 lsvtec(stolen)(installed b16 nitrous then stolen again)
EG9 grocery bagger family car ( cop owned)
EG coupe b16 fully built (traded)
JDM front teggy lsvtec built high boost fail
EG bucket #becauseracecar HIGH BOOST here we come!
300zx n/a blown thenTRADED
S14 ka semi built TRADED
S13 coupe Sr20det STOLEN
EG9 z6-t(swapped)LS turbo(blew)b20 turbo(traded)
EG6 lsvtec(stolen)(installed b16 nitrous then stolen again)
EG9 grocery bagger family car ( cop owned)
EG coupe b16 fully built (traded)
JDM front teggy lsvtec built high boost fail
EG bucket #becauseracecar HIGH BOOST here we come!
Come check us out to solve all your mechanic needs at 4745 126th ave n Clearwater Florida 33672 disston terminals lot 29,21 CoCoSPEEDPERFORMANCE MON-FRI 10:30am-7pm we will be more than happy to service you for a fair price.
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CoCoSPEEDPERFORMANCE & Repair shop
we specialize in imports ..
4 blocks away from showtime raceway off of 49th ave
4745 126th ave n Clearwater Florida 33672 Lot 29,21 Disston Terminals
CoCoSPEEDPERFORMANCE & Repair shop
we specialize in imports ..
4 blocks away from showtime raceway off of 49th ave
4745 126th ave n Clearwater Florida 33672 Lot 29,21 Disston Terminals
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