Honda/Acura FAQ - Please Review This Before Making A Post!

[Cold_Beer]

Originally Posted by kid4life4eva

i need a wiring diagram for a D16a6....

www.google.com

[Cold_Beer]

Helms/service manuals **all you need to build/break a honda **

http://www.streetlegalkhk.nl/downloa...nda%20manuals/

[Cold_Beer]

got some more stuff....


**ecu codes**

OBD U.S. (88-91)
DPFi = Dual Point Fuel Injection
MPFi = Multi Point Fuel Injection

* PM5 civic/crx STD/DX; DPFi
* PM6 civic/crx Si; MPFi, 88-89 PM6's are not reprogrammable, only 90-91 are.
* PM8 crx HF; MPFi
* PR4 integra RS/LS/GS

OBD JDM (88-91)

* PM7 civic/crx Si DOHC ZC; semi-rare ecu
* PR3 civic/crx SiR & integra XSi/RSi DOHC VTEC (B16A)
* PW0 civic/crx SiR & integra XSi/RSi DOHC VTEC (B16A)



OBD-1 U.S. (92-95)

* PR4 integra RS/LS/LS-SE/GS (B18B); same programming as P74 & P75
* P0A accord EX (SOHC VTEC)
* P05 civic CX; uses 1-wire 02 sensor, convertable to VTEC (may vary)
* P06 civic DX (D15B); convertable to VTEC (may vary) & supports B-series DOHC VTEC& non-VTEC programming
* P07 civic VX (D15B SOHC VTEC-E); 2 versions of this ecu - one is P28-like, the other is an oddball ecu and is not suggested for reprogramming, uses 5-wire 02 sensor. P28-style P07 supports B-series DOHC VTEC programming.
* P14 prelude Si DOHC (H23)
* P13 prelude DOHC VTEC (H22A)
* P28 civic Si/EX (D16Z6 SOHC VTEC); reprogrammable to DOHC VTEC
* P30 civic delsol Si VTEC (B16A)
* P61 integra GSR (B17A); only availabe in the US
* P72 integra GS-R (B18C1)
* P74 integra RS/LS/LS-SE/GS (B18B); same programming as PR4 & P75
* P75 integra RS/LS/LS-SE/GS (B18B); same programming as PR4 & P74

OBD-1 JDM/EURO (92-95)

* PR3 integra XSi/RSi DOHC VTEC (B16A); semi-rare ecu, equivilent to a US P30 ecu.
* P08 civic VTi (D15B SOHC VTEC); small ecu body, equivilent to a P28, supports B-series DOHC VTEC programming
* P13 prelude DOHC VTEC (H22A); only supports JDM P13 programming
* P27 civic coupe (D16A); rare ecu, equivilent to a P28. supports B-series DOHC VTEC programming
* P29 civic (DOHC ZC); rare ecu! equivilent to a P06/DX ecu. supports B-series DOHC programming
* P30 civic SiR & delsol SiR (B16A); small ecu body
* P72 integra SiR/SiR-G (B18C); small ecu body
* P91 civic orthio (D16A SOHC VTEC); rare but equivilent to a P28, supports B-series DOHC VTEC programming



OBD-2a U.S. (96-9

* P2E civic DX coupe
* P2N civic HX coupe; uses a 5-wire 02 sensor
* P2P civic EX coupe (D16Y
* P72 integra GS-R (B18C)
* P75 integra RS/LS & LS-SE/GS
* P13 96-97 prelude VTEC ( H22A); rare ecu!
* P5M prelude VTEC (H22A); remained OBD2a from 98-00

OBD2a JDM

* P2T civic Si coupe (B16A)
* PCT civic Type-R (EK9/B16B)
* P73 integra Type-R (B18C)



OBD-2b U.S. (99-01)

* P2T civic Si coupe (B16A)
* P72 integra GS-R (B18C); Immobilizer equipped
* P73 integra Type-R (B18C5); Immobilizer equipped
* P75 integra RS/LS/GS (B18B), Immobilzer equipped

OBD-2b (JDM)

* PCB prelude Type-S
* PCT civic Type-R (EK9/B16B)
* PCX S2000 (F20C)



OBD-2c

* PRB A01-A05 RSX Type-S (US)
* PRC RSX Type-R (JDM)

[SmokinS13SR20]

Intake:
Increased horsepower and torque (sometimes more than 10%) is available when upgrading your compact's intake. The OEM intake assembly is usually a maze of filters, airboxes, resonators (the box to nowhere) and plastic or cardboard (gasp!) tubing. All those pieces are there to keep noise to a minimum and flow to its most mileagable, but this usually means limited considerations for power. The key to more power is increased airflow both into and out of your engine.

The first and most affordable upgrade is to replace the restrictive OE factory paper air filter element with a free-flowing and reuseable cotton-gauze aftermarket filter element. It is the most cost-effective modification you can make to your car. The next step up is to swap the factory intake snorkel and filter for a free-flow filter element and intake assembly. Kits for rerouted tubing and high-flow filters can be found in every performance magazine on the rack. What you should look for is one that has the lowest restriction (smoother bends) and actually routes cooler 'outside' fresh air into the intake system. (Underhood air can be up to 100-degrees hotter than outside air, even on a summer day.)

Just like increased airflow, cooler air will make more power because it's denser and contains more oxygen to burn more fuel. These kits make substantial power, usually in the upper portion of the RPM range. They also free up much of the engine's real intake sound, so what was boring and silent now gurgles and pops at idle. Most four and six cylinder engines make a nifty snorting sound when you hit the throttle.
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Exhaust:
Remember the power equation. Increased power requires more airflow into and more airflow out of your engine. What's even worse than restricted airflow on the intake side is an inadequate exhaust system. There are a few simple bolt-ons to fix this problem. The first is to install a free-flowing cat-back, bolt-on exhaust kit (or have a custom-bent system installed for you). Replacing stock exhaust and mufflers with bigger and better-flowing hardware is probably the most popular import and compact performance upgrade ever. With the momentous upswing of the hot-compact craze, aftermarket manufacturers have introduced numerous pre-formed exhaust systems that bolt up aft of the catalytic converter(s). The prices and materials range from el-cheapo offshore metal with no rustproofing and an inexpensive muffler, to pricey stainless-steel systems that will last a long time and provide a great sound.

When choosing a muffler or 'can', talk to people with the same car as yours to find out whose system sounds like what. Do you want a Vroooom or a Bbbblat? Whose pipes and cans do your friends run? Flow numbers are important, but you need to be able to live with the sounds the system makes. How many 'hot rod' compacts have you seen drive by that sound like a bumblebee in heat? Also, be sure to retain catalytic converters if being street-legal is important to you. Yanking all restrictions to exhaust flow (including the cats) may net a few more horses, but also means a better chance of being sweated by the boys in blue. The catalytic converter is also a proficient sound/drone suppressor that can keep the cockpit exhaust noise at a more tolerable level.
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Ignition:
The ignition system is a crucial part of the engine that often gets overlooked. Old, high-mileage ignition wires dry out and crack, and the insulation deteriorates and exposes the wire inside to corrosive air. Old plugs burn out, get soaked in oil, lose conductive surface and become resistant to the flow of electrons.

You can replace and upgrade these components to find smoother, quicker and more efficient power. Basically an engine that is producing more power is doing so because of increased pressure in the combustion chamber. More pressure requires more ignition output for the spark to jump the plug gap and fire the spark plug. Quality ignition upgrades will conduct a more powerful, sharper spark than the factory replacement parts and will do so more reliably. Improved ignition also means more consistent spark at high rpm in high compression, blower or turbo engines.

When you shop around, you'll find ignition wires that can be individually grounded to reduce interference and smooth the flow of electrons, wires that use high-tech conductive materials with less resistance, wires with extra-durable insulation, wires resistant to engine heat and wires with neat colors. If you plan on adding a higher-output ignition module in the future, be sure to purchase premium plug wires.

Big rule to remember: replace one ignition wire at a time and you won't cross up the firing order, an embarrassing mistake that we've all made. Shopping will also reveal lots of spark plugs— manufactured with exotic metals, different types and shapes of ground strap and special insulators and ceramics. Much of this variety in spark plug design is simply a marketing ploy. However, there has been a real breakthrough with Iridium electrode spark plugs. They offer as much as 5,000 volts less resistance to firing, and last indefinitely, but they are substantially more expensive than conventional platinum plugs. Some engines will benefit from plugs that are colder than stock, but your choice should be researched as the wrong heat range spark plug can damage your engine.
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Computer:
The current import-compact performance trend involves late-model metal, and those cars depend on an engine management computer for just about everything. This makes the engine computer the gatekeeper for tuning and modifications. Consider that most current automotive computers control fuel, spark, timing, shift points, top speed and engine cooling (to name a few) and that computer becomes a necessary component of the hot-rodding process. Luckily, the import-compact aftermarket has made computer tuning one of its fort's. Whether you plug in a chip or piggyback module, or you have a professional open up the processor to make the changes, it's a quick and easy way to adjust and improve.

When planning your latest bolt-on, you have to consider what parameters within the computer it will affect and whether you'll need to alter that computer's programming to accommodate the change. There's going to be limited flexibility already designed into the computer to account for the varying conditions encountered while driving in stock form. Will your bolt-on be able to function within those boundaries, or is it going to go beyond the programming? Consider this situation: you've just bolted-on a high-flow intake snorkel. You'll see some more power without needing any computer tuning because this mod is typically within the parameters of the factory engine computer. The intake you added isn't bringing in so much air that the computer can't figure out how much fuel to supply. After the intake, you add a free-flowing exhaust system, a bigger catalytic converter and a high-quality header, which bring even more air through the engine. Is the processor still able to give you the correct fuel/air ratio? Probably not. See the point we're making? Small mods can get by without needing changes in programming, but significant alterations (all dependant on the vehicle and its particular programming—consult an expert) will require you to tune the computer to have everything work properly.

Advanced engine computer tuning can be vehicle specific—experts will adjust coding for your individual mechanical layout. Nitrous oxide, turbocharged, supercharged, high-compression, larger injectors, gear ratio, tire size, whatever; each requires different tweaks. A good programmer will have more experience with various tuning situations. It's smart to consult several tuners who deal with your make and model to see if there's more than one option for tuning the computer. Use the web to research tuners, talk to other people in your situation, and again, buyer beware. You want performance, not hype.
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Header:
The natural compliment to an improved cat-back exhaust is to upgrade the whole exhaust system. While the standard cat-back system will give you more power and a better sound, you can have more. Do you want the best flow available from exhaust port to tip, more horsepower and much better breathing in big-rev land? The stock manifold, down pipe (typically a part of the header/manifold arrangement) and catalytic converter stand in your way. Installation of these parts is more invasive than bolting up a cat-back exhaust, as you have to go under the hood as well as under the car. There may also be smog law considerations. In California, a catalytic converter can't be removed (legally) unless it's damaged or over 90,000 miles old. If a header isn't designed to accommodate emissions equipment and hasn't been certified, it will not be street legal either. Be sure to examine smog rules to make sure you don't incur the wrath of your local government.

The number one header/catalytic option is to replace all factory exhaust tubing with aftermarket-sourced pieces. This means a tubular header or two (one bank of cylinders or two?) in place of the factory iron manifolds or factory headers, enlarged downpipes (often sold as part of the header) and high-flow catalytics (either larger in diameter or using a less-obstructive monolith internally). Store-bought and meant to be bolted together out of the box, this is the easiest way to open up exhaust flow. With some mass-manufactured exhaust parts, you'll have to clean up welding flash, sharp edges and open up areas that were necked-down during assembly. Do research—what have other people with your engine combination found to work best?
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Cams:
As overhead-cam engines are now the norm amongst compact and import cars, a special tuning aid has returned to popularity: degreeing the cam, which is adjusting the cam timing separate to overall engine timing. Although it won't necessarily add to peak power, it is an effective way to move the power band around. With so many more aftermarket camshafts available for compacts, and cams that are much easier to access, this method of tuning for driveability and a few more horses has become commonplace among import and compact fans.

Adjustable cam sprockets are available for both single- and dual-overhead cam engines from a variety of manufacturers. Look for individual degree marks on the inner hub that are etched, not printed, and a reference degree mark on the outer hub. You want as many degrees of adjustability as possible. When tuning, both intake and exhaust timing can be varied. Typically, advancing the camshaft will increase low-end grunt, while top-end horsepower comes with the cam retarded. A single-overhead cam can be adjusted for both intake and exhaust timing, but not separately. Dual-overhead cams give you the flexibility to adjust intake and exhaust timing individually. Degreeing a camshaft is not easy business and requires specialized tools and an understanding of camshaft specs. If you've never done it, have someone knowledgeable do it and show you how. If done incorrectly, you can screw up the whole valvetrain and lose hp.

Another easy belt-related modification is to install 'power pulleys'—factory accessory and drive pulleys with their diameter optimized for power gains. Designed to decrease the load placed on the engine by its accessories (power steering, water pump, smog pump, AC driver, alternator, etc), 'power pulley' kits will usually include an undersized crank pulley (the driving pulley) and oversized pulleys for the accessories to slow them down. This is a cheap upgrade that can hand you more than a tenth-second improvement in your 1/4-mile time.
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Fuel Pump:
One of those maintenance chores that can become an upgrade is replacing the fuel pump and filter. Consider that electrical things wear out—wiper motors, window switches, headlight servos, the defroster— why shouldn't the fuel pump, another electric device, wear out too? It does. Have you ever thought that yours needs replacement? It might. Experts say that after five years most pumps have slid from ideal volumetric efficiency to tragic inadequacy. This means you may be short on fuel, and running slow and hot. Not only that, but the filter must be dirty. Even if you have a good OEM pump, it will be limited in its ability to cope with increased fuel demand. If your power situation is expanded beyond the factory level, the pump will be working at full capacity just to keep up with daily driving. Full throttle can starve the engine and result in overheating and power-robbing lean conditions.

The easy fix (unless you're making power far beyond stock levels; then you'll need more than a pump to catch up) is an upgraded pump and new filter, often available to bolt right in. Some cars require you to drop the gas tank to get at the unit; others just need a panel in the trunk popped out. The upgraded pump should have greater gph or lph (gallon per hour or liter per hour) capacity than stock. If you have the time, plumb a fuel pressure gauge in the engine compartment and install an adjustable pressure regulator for real-time information-access and control. There are often other limiting factors in your fuel system that, like the intake or exhaust tracts, can hurt flow. Speak to folks who know your car to find out if the fuel rail (which links to the injectors) is an impediment, if the injectors are easily maxed out or if there are spots in the fuel lines that are crimped or bent too tight. Replacement hardware is available: high-flow fuel rails, bigger injectors and oversized fuel lines can be installed to alleviate almost any fuel-delivery problems you might have.
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Throttle Body:
If you plan to open up the intake side of your engine for better airflow, why stop with the intake/filter assembly? Downstream of that snorkel and filter is the air-metering and induction hardware. Aftermarketers have a simple solution'make 'em bigger. The diameter of modified throttle-bodies is usually only a few millimeters larger than stock, and can be bought oversized or created from your stock unit.

If you bolt-on an oversized throttle body without matching it to other intake parts, you could lose power. The intake-tract for most engines will not respond well to turbulent air, and the neck-down from an enlarged throttle body to the stock-diameter manifold inlet could upset airflow, hurting overall flow and power. The same goes for an enlarged mass-air meter—you want it to match the rest of the system. The air entering the engine needs to follow the smoothest path to have the fastest, densest flow. Beyond establishing an easy route for inbound air, most engine computers have to be recalibrated for the modified throttle body, mass-air or speed-density units, as the volumetric capacity of the intake is a exact part of the math done by the computer to figure the fuel charge it will introduce.
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Transmission:
Don't forget the gearbox. Automatic or manual, 4, 5, or 6-speed; what the factory gave you is rarely enough to cope with your little hot rod. If you are a stick shiftin', gear bangin', clutch slammin' fool, upgrade the long-haul stock shifter to the short-throw variety and install a clutch that's more in line with your driving and horsepower. If the automatic is more your style, don't be stranded with an inefficient torque converter and vague, hesitant shifts—find a shift kit and an aftermarket torque converter.

Big performance gains can come from your manual gearbox with a couple of changes. A short-throw shifter is a great first step—quicker from gear to gear. The logic is simple: change the fulcrum point of the shift lever (the rod which the shift knob is on top of) and it takes less physical motion to motivate the inner workings of the gearbox. Most short-throw shift kits are easy to install, too—remove some interior trim and a few bolts from inside the cockpit. Trade your factory clutch (another weak link) for an aftermarket unit with more clamping force. It doesn't hurt to go a little overkill with the clutch, especially if you plan to add more horsepower in the future. Ask about pedal effort—some 'heavier' clutches take quite a lot of pressure to actuate, and this may wear you out in heavy traffic situations. When you order a clutch kit, you should receive the clutch disc (friction material), the pressure plate (clamping power for the friction material), a throwout bearing (also called a slave bearing, important for smooth clutch operation) and a pilot bushing (which helps line everything up). The clutch is a pretty tough job for an amateur, though, so find a competent mechanic.

For drivers who've chosen to go automatic, different steps are taken to bring improved shifts and performance. The kits sold to upgrade the transmission internals are commonly called shift-kits, but there are many high-quality manufacturers of trans-upgrade parts that don't use that term. A good package will include all you need for firmer shifts, higher shift points and greater trans longevity. These kits include redesigned transmission valving and internal components to help channel trans fluid more effectively, improving trans pressure and fluid movement. If you want to shift your automatic like a manual trans, ask about a manual valve body—it's a device that allows manual control of gear selection. Look for a company that's experienced with import transmissions, and whose product comes with live tech support and a good warranty. The addition of an aftermarket torque converter is another great tuning device. Match the torque converter stall speed with maximum engine torque (say 3200rpm) and your vehicle will most likely drop .4-seconds off its quarter mile times. Upgraded torque converters aren't the cheapest mod you can make, but they can offer the biggest 'bang for your modification buck.' Look for a professional transmission shop to take care of you—automatics are tough to do right, and mistakes can be costly.
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Nitrous Oxide:
Nitrous oxide (N2O) is frequently called 'horsepower in a bottle, juice or squeeze.' Pre-assembled nitrous oxide systems have been designed for bolt-on installation on many imports and compacts, and are often advanced enough to link with engine and transmission computers. A properly installed nitrous oxide system can provide you an easy 50 horsepower or bump up a prepped race engine two or three hundred. If used wrong or abused, it'll 'nuke' your motor and send you home with a box of metal engine bits. Retailers with brand-specific kits (manufactured for your make and model) usually have the most comprehensive system, as the hardware is exactly suited to your vehicle's needs. Installation isn't too complicated and most kits will come with all the bits and pieces required to complete the job safely. You should look for a package that includes the bottle and all required nitrous jet(s), tubing, valves, fittings, brackets and electronics.

Nitrous oxide gas consists of two molecules nitrogen and one molecule oxygen. Injected into the combustion chamber in measured amounts, N2O's oxygen enhances the combustion process and the nitrogen cools the combustion chamber. All N2O applications require additional fuel be delivered into the cylinders because of the improved combustion process—without additional fuel, your engine will go lean. Too much oxygen, not enough gas. There are two distinct types of nitrous-injection system used on automotive engines: wet or dry. A wet nitrous system injects the N2O into your car's induction system mixed with a measured amount of auxillary fuel. This fuel is usually drawn from the same source as the engine's regular fuel supply, and is shot into the intake tract in a nitrous/fuel mist. A dry nitrous system is just that—nitrous oxide introduced into the intake charge by itself, without any fuel. The dry method requires fuel be added by the computer compensating for a lean condition.

A wet nitrous system is the safest best for a casual user, as it combines fuel and N2O for you, guaranteeing the correct mixture and even delivery. Smaller-volume dry systems that are built to deliver less than 40 horsepower won't put your engine at too much risk should a lean-condition occur, and can be used without auxiliary fuel delivery. Wet systems require more installation work, but give you a redundant fuel capacity to avoid dependence on the factory fuel system. A wet system will keep N2O matched to fuel at all times—if an injector goes bad, the cylinder will have enough fuel to avoid N2O detonation. A dry system is typically easier to install and can be used with the factory fuel system and computer, albeit with modifications to each. Dry nitrous oxide systems are often designed to interface directly with the engine computer to control fuel flow, ignition timing and nitrous delivery.


TEH END

[Hater]

I thought there where no emmison laws in florida?

Because All those guys with the big trucks stright pipe it. But i am aware of the exhuast db rating is that what you ment when talking about the cat?

[SmokinS13SR20]

Originally Posted by HonCiv93

there arnt

+1 No emmision requirements anymore just sound ordinance and yea you will see other classes of cars (muscle cars, big trucks) with a loud exhaust and they dont get bugged. It seems as if the cops pick on the Importerers.....

[SmokinS13SR20]

95GAINFLA Where's my rep?

[aka5000]

everyone should read this

[SmokinS13SR20]

thanks man

[Cold_Beer]

Originally Posted by SmokinS13SR20

Mmm... i disagree with that. Can you provide a source?

yeah , florida state law books.

Just because there isnt testing doesnt mean its legal to pollute shit up with shitty ass cars....it just means they are more leaniant. For instance, it is illegal to modify your exhaust system in any way, UNless it is DOT apporved as being a factory replacement part....and it is VERY illegal not to have a catalytic converter. BUt like i said , they are more leaniant about it , and you have to REALLY piss someone off to get in trouble about it.

[Cold_Beer]

Cleaned it up a lil, just to get rid of some chit chat.....and

Trouble codes FTW



1
dOxygen Sensor "A" (Primary)

2

Oxygen Sensor "B"

3

MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)

4

CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor)

5

MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
mechanical problem / disconnected piping

6

ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)

7

TP Sensor (Throttle Position)

8
TDC Sensor (Top Dead Center)

9*

CYP Sensor (Cylinder)

10
IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)

12

EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)

13

BARO Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure)

14

IAC Valve (Idle Air Control)

15

Ignition Output Signal

16

Fuel Injector System

17

VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
r
19

Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve

20

Electrical Load Detector

21*
VTEC Solenoid Valve

22*

VTEC Oil Pressure Switch

23

KS (Knock Sensor)

30

Automatic Transmission Signal: "A" / SEAF / SEFA / TMA or TMB

31

Automatic Transmission Signal "B"

41

Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater

43

Fuel Supply System

45

System Too Lean or Too Rich
malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems

48

LAF Sensor (Lean Air Fuel)

54

CKF Sensor (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation)

58

TDC Sensor 2 (Top Dead Center)


61

Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 1 (Primary)
high voltage, low voltage, or slow response
63

Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 2 (Secondary)
high voltage, low voltage, or slow response

65

Oxygen Sensor Heater (Secondary)

67

Catalyst system Efficiency Below Threshold

70

Automatic Transmission

71

Cylinder 1 Misfire or a Random Misfire

72

Cylinder 2 Misfire or a Random Misfire

73

Cylinder 3 Misfire or a Random Misfire

74

Cylinder 4 Misfire or a Random Misfire

75

Cylinder 5 Misfire or a Random Misfire

76

Cylinder 6 Misfire or a Random Misfire

80

Exhaust Gas Recirculation

86

ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)

90

Evaporative Emission Control System
leak detected in the fuel tank area

91

Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
low input
92

Evaporative Emission Control System

[Cold_Beer]

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...=Google+Search

please others contribute your ls vtec info. and any questions ansewered.

ANY LS VTEC THREAD MADE WILL BE LOCKED.

~Jake

[Janky99]

C-Speed Racing FTW!!!

[YBlegal]

might try and add this link for helpful tips on gen 2 integra's....(90-93) http://g2ic.com/tegtips/

[Blown99civicSi]

How To Build A LS/VTEC From the Top Down. Please add or replace parts at your discression

HOW TO BUILD A LS/VTEC

(B18A/B Block With a DOHC VTEC head)
______________________________________________




I am writing this and assuming that if you plan on going through with the steps provided below that you have an understanding of engine building, you own a Helm's (or equivalent) manual, and you have the parts and tools you need for the minimum (in my opinion) build. An engine stand would be helpful to have, it is not necessary but it is very helpful. You can get them at any major parts store.
Our LSVTEC parts list gives several options, here is the list (beyond block and head) that I would call a minimum:

Pistons from any B16 because LS pistons do not have large enough valve reliefs for VTEC intake valves. Forged pistons would be better, but if you can afford them B16 pistons will work well.
New piston rings. Honda rings work well, or you can use your preferred aftermarket.

Cam gears (brand is up to you), some folks have had trouble with AEM gears slipping.

A B series DOHC VTEC distributor. An LS one will work with some modifications.

An ECU that matches the OBD of your engine and that is setup to run a DOHC VTEC engine. A P30, P61 or a chipped P28 would work fine for an OBD1 car. Also, if you are using a GSR head, and the stock intake manifold, you are going to want a P72 from the GSR in order to control the IAB butterflies.

Water and oil pumps from a B16, GSR or ITR. I don't consider using the LS water pump an option as it is likely to cavitate at high RPM. This means you have to run the GSR timing belt.

ARP rod bolts. If you are using LS rods this is not a must, but it is a damn good idea. The stock LS bolts were not designed to handle the forces of 8000 RPM. $55 is not much to pay for peace of mind.

ARP head studs. They hold better than stock and you don't run the risk of destroying the threads in the block every time you pull the head. You will need to purchase the correct studs for the head you are running, you can find these(or the part number) for them on our site under

Engine/Hardware.

First, the modifications that you will need to perform on the bottom end. You won't actually change anything in the bottom end, just the normal steps that you would take if you were rebuilding the engine.
Once the bottom end is disassembled you should take it to a machinist to have the cylinder walls honed, make sure that you keep the piston to wall clearance within spec for the pistons that you are using. It's a good idea to bring your pistons and rings to the machine shop with you so that they can perfectly spec them to match. Its also a good idea to have your crank polished, and have the rotating assembly balanced. When you are reassembling the bottom end make sure to check all the bearing clearances with plastigauge. I am not including any pictures of the bottom end rebuild because they can all be found in your Helms manual.

The Head

There are several modifications in this step; first you will need to have a machinist open the holes on the intake side of the engine to accept dowel pins, Some people dont do this, but end up kicking themselfs in the end when the head doesnt quite line up right.

Pics will be up to to depict this:

Next you will have to tap the VTEC oil passage and plug it using a set screw.(another good idea is to have a welder fill the hole) If you bought a kit for your oil line it most likely came with a set screw to plug this passage. 3/8" NPT to either a -3 or -4an line, depending on your line/kit. It HAS to go into the head far enough so that it does not affect the way you head sits on the gasket! Make sure to apply a little thread lock to this set screw.(if you dont weld the hole shut)

Next you need to decide where you want to run your oil line. There are two spots where the line can attach to the head.

Pics will be up showing this as well:

Make sure to use Teflon tape on all of these connections except the two connections to the external oil line, as they will be self sealing.
Make sure to clay your engine for proper clearances if you are running aftermarket cams and/or aftermarket pistons. When you are assembling the engine, make sure to use generous amounts of assembly lube on any metal to metal contact area except your piston rings. Use regular, non-synthetic, engine oil on them. This will protect your engine for the first few seconds that it runs before your oil starts flowing.
If you bought a VTEC conversion Sandwhich adapter, you can skip the next step.

Now you are ready to install the oil T on the block. Next to the oil filter will be your oil pressure sending unit. Remove the sending unit from the block. This is where you will be installing the oil T.

Pics here soon:

Install the T before you install the oil filter.
First, apply some Teflon tape to the adapter that will be threading into the block, make sure to apply the tape to the side that will thread into the block and the side that will thread into the T. Start the adapter threading into the T, then thread the T into the block. Make sure it is snug, but be careful not to over tighten.
Next, apply some Teflon tape to the oil pressure sending unit. Then thread the sending unit into the T. It does not matter which spot on the T that you use. I chose up because it made routing the oil line more simple. Apply some Teflon tape to the end of the fitting that will thread into the oil T and install it. Again, make sure everything is snug, but be careful not to over tighten.(these fitting will break!!)

Now install the oil line. If you are using the InlineFour or a smiliar kit, your assembled engine should look something like this:

Pics up soon:

Now install the engine and tranny. Procedure on this is out of the scope of this article, however, wiring it up is not.

Finishing Touches

If you already had a DOHC VTEC motor in your car than the engine harness will plug'n play. If you are running a GSR head and have a B16 harness you will need to follow the steps below for the IAB wires. The B18A blocks have a knock sensor thread in the back to the right of the oil filter, were the B18B blocks do not. In this case you would need to tap a hole( 1/8 NTP) in the block somewere perferably in a coolent passage on the back of the block if you want to run a knock sensor. Any factory ECU that runs knock control WILL need a knock sensor, or you will get a constant CEL (check engine light), and poor performance. Any chipped or moddified ECU can easily disable the knock sensor if you like. We can offer this service as well..
If you were running a Non VTEC harness, you will have to run 2, 3, or 4 wires through the firewall to the ECU. Two to the VTEC solenoid, one to the knock sensor (if your ECU requires one), and one to the IAB (if you are using the gsr head with the stock intake manifold for the butterflies). Where you run these wires to on the ECU depends on your OBD version and which ECU you are using. You can ground the VTEC switch to the engine or any good ground source, so there is no reason to run that wire through the firewall.
As long as you have everything hooked up properly your engine should start.

Drive That Sucker!!

Onto the break in, there are sooo many theories on how to properly break in an engine, Here is the method I use, and has yet to fail me in over 10yrs.

Make sure the floor beneath your engine is clean, or lay some newspaper down. On the first start up,let the engine come up to operating temp. when it reaches this, bring the revs up to about 2000RPM for about 5 minutes Make sure that you are flowing water, and that your fan(s) kick in when they should. While your engine is warming up check for any leaks; this is where the clean floor comes in handy. Now at this point I like to change the oil and filter again, you dont want any of the new breakin material finding its way into one of you new bearng faces do you? After the 2nd change If you don't have any leaks, take you car out and do a couple of 1st gear pulls at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle stopping at 5000 or 5500 RPM and letting the motor wind down by itself still in gear to around 1000 to 2000RPM. This loads the rings to help them seat to the cylinder walls. Then do a couple 2nd gear pulls the same way, then some 3rd gear pulls. Now change your oil. Drain the oil into a clean open pan. Check the oil for metal. There will be some, but make sure you don't have a lot of metal floating in the oil. If you have a lot of metal in the oil you should disassemble the bottom end and check all your bearings for excessive wear. You probably have a rod or main bearing that does not have enough clearance. If everything is clear then drive your car for about 500 miles. Try not to exceed 6500 to 7000 RPM for the first 50 to 100 miles,There are many theories on how to break a motor in, but after the rings seat, you can proceed to drive the car normal, dont kill the motor right away, but dont baby it either, For the 1st few drives keep an eye on oil levels and water levels, as well as temps. You can use the full rev range if you feel confident after the 1st 100 miles, but use your head(assuming that you haven't developed any problems). Change the oil again at 500 miles. and again at 1000 miles. It is now safe to run synthetic oil (in fact I recommend it). I used this break in method on my car And every engine we build. I have done many teardowns after these break-ins and the motors show NO signs of damage, or premature wear...
I hope you found this guide helpful. The normal disclaimer applies: Neither Modified Racing Inc ( WWW.MODIFIEDRACING.NET ), staff nor myself are responsible for any damage you do to your car or YOU!!. I have written this guide to the best of my ability and these steps are the same I used when building my engine. If you are unsure about any step or feel that this guide could be improved in any way please contact me at Sales@ModifiedRacing.Net