Honda/Acura FAQ - Please Review This Before Making A Post!

[Vito_Corleone]

Originally posted by Mugenkid05
Fuel System Maintenance???

What exactly do you want to know? Clean your injectors with soap and water and change your fuel filter at a reasonable mileage. That help? You could try that gas station fuel system cleaner outer gimmick as well, though i don't know how effective it is.

[Spyderxl98z24]

Fuel system cleaner BG has a good setup ! its a pressure system that bypass's the pumo and shoves cleaner through the injectors using comprressed air !!! get one they work great!!

[The Spectacle]

damn near everything you need to know about turbo'ing your Honda

[Alpha]

This was originally written by Jeff Evans at Boosted Hybrid. GREAT article.

This thread is to address any questions on how to properly build a gsr shortblock. The components used were Manley/Full race connecting rods, CP 81.5mm 9.8:1 pistons, OEM bearings and other OEM components.

Before I begin this article the shortblock was overbored from 81mm to 81.5mm. Overboring the cylinder walls 0.5mm is proper engine building technique. This is done to ensure that the cylinder wall is a true circle from the top of the bore to the bottom.



The list of tools that you'll need to do a proper bottom end assembly are the following:

1. Dial bore gauge
2. Rod stretch gauge tool
3. Micrometer
4. 3-4" machinist measurement tool
5. 2-3" machinist measurement tool
5. Plastic gauge
6. Torque wrench
7. Feeler gauges
8. Ring filer
9. Tap set
10. Ring compressor

Other supplies that you'll need are:

1. Brake Kleen
2. Credit card/plastic straight edge
3. Arp bolt assembly lube
4. Clevite bearing lubricant
5. SAE 30 wt oil

The beginning of this article is going to start with the engine taken completely apart. You'll have to dis-assemble the entire block to get to the point where pictures start.

The first step is to clean down all the bearing surfaces, lets start with the mains/block girdle. Use fresh, clean paper towels and Brake Kleen to wipe down all the surfaces:





Take all the main bolts and wipe them down, its very important to have the threads clean to get accurate torque readings:



Next wipe down all the bearings surfaces on the crankshaft:



After all the bearing surfaces and main bolts are cleaned, we have to move onto checking all the clearances. Pictured here is a 2-3" machinist micrometer, its accurate to 0.0001" and is essential to measure clearances such as the crankshaft bearing surfaces, piston skirt, etc. The 2-3" simply signifies the range for which the micrometer is able to measure. Here is a picture for reference:



We'll start checking the clearances on the crankshaft at the bearing surfaces. Using the 2-3" mic measure across the crank bearing surface, do this at 4 seperate locations spaced approx. 45 degrees apart from each other. The purpose of measuring at various locations is to check that the crank has is a true circle, the service limit that Honda recommends is measurements within 0.0001" of each other:



Log all measurements that you take on a log journal, you can keep track of your engine build easier, and you can refer to the measurements if a future tear down occurs:



Next we will measure the piston size to ensure that the right bore size piston is being used, as well as to choose which piston is going to be sized properly to each cylinder bore. Variation in piston size to the 0.0001” is common, and cylinder bore variation as well. Use the 3-4" machinist mic to check the size. In order to measure the piston size, measure approx. 0.5" below the wrist pin:



The CP pistons are accurate to the 0.0001", which means each piston is dead accurate to each other. This step is not need if you are using CP pistons, all other pistons you'll have to take this step.

Next we'll move onto measuring the bore size of each cylinder. A dial bore gauge tool is needed in order to accurately measure the bore. Here is a reference picture:



In order to use the dial bore gauge, there is various "anvils" or arms that you match to the bore size of the engine. 81.5mm bore is approximately 3.2", so the 3.2" anvil is to be used:



In order to measure the bore size accurately, the piston-to-cylinder wall clearance has to be known. Different piston manufactuers have different piston to wall clearances. CP piston uses 0.003" clearance. I choose to go with a 0.0031" piston to wall clearance on my engine, the 0.0001" extra clearance is to be able to give the piston more room to expand while under the extreme cylinder temperatures at high boost levels. Here is the CP piston spec sheet calling for the 0.003" clearance:



With the proper anvil installed into the dial bore gauge, use the 3-4" micrometer to "zero" the dial bore gauge. Zeroing the gauge allows to show the difference in the cylinder wall size from the target cylinder wall clearance. You have to take the 3-4" machinest micrometer and set it to the size that we desire. The bore size is 3.209 for 81.5mm, and the piston to wall clearance I choose was 0.0031. Simple addition gives us the cylinder wall spec that we should see to be 3.2121. Having the 3-4" mic clamped into a vice, set the mic to 3.2121" spec and lock it so it doesnt move. Take the dial bore gauge tool and install it within either end of the mic, since this is what we want the cylinder wall spec to be "zero" the gauge, here is a picture of this occuring:



The dial bore gauge reads accurate to the 0.00005". In order to measure the cylinder wall properly rock the dial bore gauge back and forth, watching the dial gauge while doing so. You'll find a maximum and minimum reading, the middle of the readings is the true bore size. Here is the dial bore gauge measuring the cylinder wall:






As you can see from the pictures the readings between each cylinder are dead accurate, this is what you get from a properly machined cylinder wall. You need to run the dial bore gauge from the top of each cylinder to the bottom, you shouldnt see much fluctation in the gauge reading. Anything past the 0.0001" is so minimal dont worry about it. In going from the top of the sleeve to the bottom you are checking that the bore and hone done by the machine shop is true throughout the bore.

Next we are going to move onto gapping the piston rings. The cylinder walls have to be super clean in order to get the most accurate readings. Brake kleen and some fresh, clean paper towels need to be used to wipe down the cylinder walls. Here is a pic:



After the dirt is cleaned from the cylinder wall, use WD-40 to lubricate them so that the piston rings dont scratch the cylinder walls:



Once the cylinder walls are lubricated, the rings should be sized. The first compression ring should be placed into the bore.



Using a piston slide the ring down to approximately the end of the piston skirt or about 3".



Once the ring is square within the bore, take the feeler gauge to measure the "gap" in the ring. The top compression ring for the CP pistons needs to be sized between 0.017-0.021". The compression ring gap depends on how much power and boost you plan on making. I am shooting for 500whp and approximately 20-22psi, so I went with a 0.019" gap on the top compression ring. Feeler gauges are not made in sizes such as 0.019", so a combination of 0.015" and 0.004" feeler gauges are used together in order to get the desired size:



Here you can see the gap on the ring within the cylinder bore:



Simply slide the feeler gauge into the ring gap, the rings are undersized so you'll have to use a ring filer to open up the gap to the desired size, and in this case 0.019". Here is a picture of the ring filer used:



Small amounts of filing should be done on the rings. Its easy to grind to much off, and have to purchase a new set of rings. I made about 4 iterations on the grinding before I reached 0.019". When sliding the feeler gauge into the gap there should be a slight drag, indicating the clearance is reached.

There is both a top and bottom compression ring on a piston. The above steps were done to the top compression ring, the next steps will be done to the bottom compression ring. Here is a picture of both the top and bottom compression ring, top compression ring is bronze color and has a moly coating, the bottom compression ring is black/grey color:



The bottom compression ring has a different ring gap spec. These are loosen than the top compression ring, the gap specs are 0.02 to 0.024". I choose to go with 0.021" on my bottom compression rings. Installation of the bottom piston rings is the same as the top compression rings. Here is a picture of me using a combination of feeler gauges to achieve 0.021" and checking the ring gap within the bore:



Filing of the rings was needed again. Take the measurements in small increments to achieve the size needed, and in this case 0.021".

Each piston and rod assembly should be numbered to keep things consistent. Use a simple Sharpie marker to write on the top of the pistons:



Keep each ring set that is checked and filed, with the piston rod assembly for that bore. Here is how I did this:



Make sure that you always lay the piston/rod assemblies on a paper towel, or something soft. You have to make sure that the pistons dont get scratched up.

The top and bottom compression rings are not ready to be installed onto the pistons. The bronze rings is to be installed on the "top" slot of the piston, and the grey ring is to be installed on the "bottom" slot of the piston. There is numbers etched into the rings, make sure that there are facing upward. Here is a picture of them installed properly:



Next the oil rings need to be installed onto the pistons. The oil rings consist of the oil rails and the seperator rail. Here is a picture of the rail and seperator rings:



Simply slide the seperator ring into the alloted groove, and place the oil rail rings on either side of the seperator ring:



Make sure that you are putting the sized rings from each cylinder bore to the correct piston that is numbered.

Now that the rings are installed into the piston grooves, the placement of the rings in relation to the piston is essential. You can place the compression rings 180 degrees apart from another, and likewise with the oil rail rings so there is no overlap. I choose to go with the OEM way of positioning the rings, here is a schematic of the ring position the OEM way:



The piston and rod assembly is ready to install into the bore. Lubricate the cylinder walls with SAE 30wt motor oil, as well as the piston with the rings installed. A ring compressor is needed to in order to install the pistons. Here is a reference picture of the one used in this article. The scissor type ring compressor that I use is hands down the best, and are affordable. They give even compression all the way around the piston/ring, and have less chance of breaking of the rings when installing into the bore.



Line up the piston into the bore. Make sure that the piston is in its proper orientation meaning the exhaust valve reliefs are on the exhaust side of the engine. Take a rubber mallet and being tapping the assembly into the bore:



This is tricky when doing this for the first time. Its very easy to break a ring tapping it into the bore. The key is to have the piston level in the bore:



Here is what the pistons look like in each bore when installed properly. Notice that each numbered piston is installed into the corresponding cylinder:



Next we'll move onto sizing the main and rod bearings.

Before the bearings are installed the main bearing bolt holes need to be chased with the corresponding tap size. This is done to ensure that no dirt, metal, etc is stuck in the threads. The dirt gives a false torque reading, so its essential to do this:



If you choose on using OEM bearings (I suggest you do this) you'll need to know what color bearings to purchase. On the block is stampings as pictured here:



Its hard to see but the letters are D,D,D,D,D. The crankshaft has the corresponding numbers and letters in order to find out what colors are needed. Here are the markings on the crankshaft:



The letters on the block in correspondance to the numbers on the crankshaft signify the color rod bearings that need to be used. Here is an illustration from a shop manual:



The rod bearing colors for me turned out to be all brown. I like to run my rod clearances on the loose end to ensure that there is adequate oil clearance at the journal, and less frictional contact.

In order to check the size of the bearing to know what to order from Honda I use, a used set of main/rod bearings. I mic the thickness on the bearing in millimeters and going by the bearing size/color chart from Earl Laskey i can determine what color is needed without ordering the bearings and checking to see if they are correct. In some cases the bearing wont be correct and a larger color will need to be used, and the bearings are not returnable. Here I am using a digital micrometer to check the thickness of the used bearing:



Here I logged down the colors according to the sizing chart, and the numerical values I measured for the use rod bearing. I used Earl Laskeys size/color chart to find out what the used bearing colors are:



Main Bearing thickness by color
Blue 2.013-2.010 mm 0.0793”- 0.0791”
Black 2.010-2.007 mm 0.0791”- 0.0790”
Brown 2.007-2.004 mm 0.0790”- 0.0789”
Green 2.004-2.001 mm 0.0789”- 0.0788”
Yellow 2.001-1.998 mm 0.0788”- 0.0787”
Pink 1.998-1.995 mm 0.0787”- 0.0785”
Red 1.995-1.992 mm 0.0785”- 0.0783”

Rod bearing thickness by color
Blue 1.510-1.507 mm 0.0594”- 0.0593”
Black 1.507-1.504 mm 0.0593”- 0.0592”
Brown 1.504-1.501 mm 0.0592”- 0.0591”
Green 1.501-1.498 mm 0.0591”- 0.0590”
Yellow 1.498-1.495 mm 0.0590”- 0.0589”
Pink 1.495-1.492 mm 0.0589”- 0.0587”
Red 1.492-1.489 mm 0.0587”- 0.0586”


The crankshaft is ready to be layed into the main journals in order to check the rod bearing clearances. The used rod bearings need to be installed into the rod journals. In order to do so the rod cap needs to be taken off of the rod, simply take out the two rod bolts as shown here:



Each rod has a top and bottom journal, place the used bearings into the journals. Note the bearing “tang”, make sure you get the “tang” line up properly in the journals. Its almost like a key, so its hard to mess this up:



Now its time to place the plastic gauge into the rod journal and measure the rod bearing clearance. You want to use the green plastic gauge packet, it’s the only size that will measure to the 0.0001” that Honda calls for. Simply break off a piece of the plastic gauge and place it into the rod journal. Tighten down the rod cap onto the rod.





Note in the last picture that the two main caps are installed to hold down the crankshaft and keep it from rotating. This is very important, if the crankshaft moves while the plastic gauge is in the journal its smears and you’ll have to do it all over again. Torque down the rod bolts on the rods to the manufacturers recommended specs, in the case of the Manley’s its 48 ft-lbs. Its better to use a rod stretch gauge tool to dial in the proper torque spec on the bolts, but for checking the bearing clearances its alright to just torque the bolts down.

Now that you have torqued the bolts down, its time to loosen the bolts back up and take off the rod caps to check the plastic gauge. Plastic gauge works by squishing to a certain width. The width of the plastic gauge corresponds to the bearing clearance. On the plastic gauge packet there is various widths and corresponding clearance chart. Here is the rod bearing plastic gauge clearances:






The plastic gauge stuck to the rod journals on the crankshaft primarily, but you can see by the last picture that the plastic gauge stuck to the rod journal. It doesn’t matter how it sticks, just measure the clearance with the width chart. Here you can see all the bearings are within 0.0015”. The rod clearance chart in the shop manual is between 0.0012-0.0017”. I like to go with a looser clearance on the rod bearings. JG engine dynamics found that 0.002” clearance was optimum; I didn’t want to go that large so I went with the pink color rod bearings. This gives me the extra 0.0002” clearance to at the edge of the factor suggested rod clearance of 0.0017”. Using used bearings works very well since you can determine the color bearing before ordering, this is invaluable for both saving time and money when building engines.

Next we move onto sizing the main bearings. Again I went with the used main bearings in the same manner as the rod bearings. I measured the thickness of each of the bearings and logged the measurements on paper. Here is the thickness of each bearing I measured:



On the crankshaft there is a number, and stamped onto the block is the corresponding letters. Here is the chart from the shop manual:



I found that I needed the following bearing colors: blue, brown, black, brown, black. Knowing the used bearing size, I could determine the difference if any from the desired colors for each bearing.

Placing the crankshaft into the main journals, and placing the plastic gauge in each journal the main cap bolts needed to be tighten down.



The torque sequence is as follows:



The main cap torque specifications are as follows:



Now that the main caps are all torqued down to spec, they have to be loosened and taken off to measure the plastic gauge width. The bearing clearances for the 2,3,4 (girdle) main caps are the following:



Here is the corresponding plastic gauge for journals 2,3,4:




The bearing clearance for main caps 1 and 5 are the following:



Here is the corresponding plastic gauge for journals 1 and 5:




The bearing clearances are all within spec, so for the first main cap I’ll use a blue color, for journals 2,3,4 and 5 a brown bearing color (this is what the used bearing colors where measured and the corresponding colors from Earl Laskey sizing chart). This leaves a 0.0015” clearance for all the main caps, which is within spec.

Now that the plastic gauging to the journals has been done, it has to be taken off. Using a credit card, or other plastic flat edge piece scrap off the plastic gauge. Don’t use cleaning solvent to clean the bearing surfaces, they have a special coating for break in that will be eaten away.




The piston oil squirters are ready to be installed. Clean the squirters with Brake Kleen as pictured here:



Simply put the piston oil squirters into the doweled area that you removed them from and torque down by hand till tight. There is no torque spec for these, just dont over do tightening them down.

Next the thrust washers have to be installed into the journals. Pictured here is the thrust washers:



The thrust washers have to be installed with the groove ends outward as pictured in the shop manual:



The thrust washers are to be installed on main number 4. In order to hold the thrust washers into place before placing the crankshaft into the main journals, put engine assembly lubricant. Here is the picture of the Clevite bearing lubricant used:



Pictured is the lubricant placed onto the inward face of the thrust washers:



Pictured is the thrust washers with the lubricant helping attaching them to the metal surface. Note the thrust washers groove facing outward:




Now that all the bearings are sized, order them from Honda or Acura. I have done this already, so I am ready to install them into the engine. Place the bearings into all the journals. Use the Clevite bearing lubricant and place in all bearing journals, and thrust washer surfaces:



The rods are now ready to be installed. Install main caps 1 and 5 and torque them down to hold the crankshaft in place.



Apply the arp assembly lubricant supplied with the Manley rods onto the rod bolt ends. This is essential to apply the assembly lubricant because the torque spec/stretch length calculated from the manufactuer is using the lubricant. If installed dry, the torque/stretch spec will be off and you wont have the proper torque on them. Simply install the rod caps onto the rods, and torque the rod bolts down so they are snug:




To properly install the rod caps a rod gauge stretch tool must be used. A rod when torqued down stretches, and a corresponding stretch length can tell the torque spec. This is the most accurate way to tighten a bolt down. Here is a pictorial reference of the rod stretch gauge tool used:



On either side of an aftermarket rod bolt there is a dimple. These dimples allow for the pin ends of the rod gauge stretch tool to sit themselves properly. Here a pic of the top and bottom of the arp 3/8 rod bolts:




Set up the rod stretch gauge tool so that it bites on the top and bottom of the rod bolt. Then preload the the tool to about 0.02 0.04”, and zero the gauge face. Here is a picture of the tool set-up and zeroed.



Manley recommends stretching the rod bolts to 0.0058 to 0.0062” as shown in the rod spec sheet:



Using a 7/16” box wrench and a pipe to give extra leverage, tighten down the rod bolt till its stretches with spec. I choose to go with a value of 0.0060 to be in the middle of the recommended stretch.

Next the main caps are ready to be installed. Using the graphite bolt compound to help the main bolts overcome friction and give a more accurate torque reading, install the main caps and girdle onto the block:



Torque down the main caps in sequence and specs as listed below:




The oil pump needs to be installed. Use a gasket sealer on the pump to ensure no oil can leak. Pictured is the sealant used, and sealant applied to the oil pump:




Here is what it looks like installed:



Next the windage tray needs to be installed onto the engine. Here is the windage tray, and windage tray installed:




Lastly the oil pick up must be installed. Pictured is the oil pick-up:



Notice the pick up neck:



The following gasket needs to be installed:





Place the oil pick up on the engine, and tighten down:



The finished product:

[Trip]

Here is some much requested information. These are from turbod16.com and since it is always down, I figured I'd cross post them here.


General Specs for 97 cu in (1.6L) D Series
Bore................2.95"(75mm)
Stroke.............3.54"(90mm)
Deck Height.....8.347"
Rod Length......5.394"
______Compression______HP___________TQ
D16A6.......9 to 1...........108@6000.......100@5000
D16Z6.......9.2 to 1........125@6600.......106@5200
D16Y8.......9.6 to 1........127@6600.......107@5500
Torque Specs
Camshaft Holder 8mm Bolts.....14-15ft lbs
Camshaft Holder 6mm Bolts.....104 inch lbs
Camshaft Pulley Bolt.......27ft lbs
AEM Cam Gear Adjustment Bolts(3 of them)....15ft lbs..apply Loctite "red" to the three retaining bolts
Connecting Rod Nut........23ft lbs
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt.....119ft lbs(D16A6).....134ft lbs(D16Z6)
Cylinder Head Bolts for D16A6
step 1.......22ft lbs
step 2.......48ft lbs
Cylinder Head Bolts for D16Z6
Step 1....22ft lbs
Step 2....53ft lbs
Cylinder Head Bolts for D16Y8
step 1(bolts 1-10)....15ft lbs
step 2(bolts 1-10)....36ft lbs
step 3(bolts 1-10)....49ft lbs
step 4(bolts 1 & 2)....49ft lbs
Cylinder Heads ...All D ARP Studs
Step 1......15ft lbs
Step 2......30ft lbs
Step 3......62ft lbs
Distributor Mount Bolt....17-18ft lbs
Flywheel Bolt........87ft lbs
Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Nut..16ft lbs
Main Bearing Cap Bolt........47ft lbs(D16A6)..........Step 1...18ft lbs(D16Z6 and YCool
Step 2...38ft lbs(D16Z6 and YCool
Rocker Arm..D16A6
End Rocker Arm Shaft Cap..9ft lbs
All Others and all D16Z and Y8s..........16ft lbs
Throttle Body Nut.......14-16ft lbs
Timing Belt Adjuster Bolt.....33ft lbs
Valve Adjustment Nut....10ft lbs(D16A6)....14-15ft lbs(D16Z6 and YCool

Cylinder Head Specs
Valve Sizes D16A6 Intake......29mm Exhaust....25mm
D16Z6 and Y8 Intake...30mm Exhaust....26mm
Valve Clearance
Stock D16Z6 Cam
Intake.....007-.009
Exhaust...009-.011
Head Chamber Volume
D16A6......................38cc
D16Z6 and D16Y7.....34.6cc
D16Y8......................32.8cc

Camshaft Specs
D16A6 Cams
........................Adv Dur..Dur@.050
........................ Int/Exh...Int/Exh...Lobe Separation...Gross Lift
Stock D16A6.......222/224..194/196........110................333/362
Crane#251-0010.226/228..200/202........107................384/376
Crane#251-0012.232/234..206/208........108................394/386
Crane#251-0014.232/228..206/202........110................394/376
Crane#251-0016.242/244..216/218........110............... 425/416

D16Z6 Cams
Comp Cams and Zex #59100
Adv Duration Duration@.050
___Int/Exh__Int/Exh_Lobe Sep_Gross Lift
PRI..228........186........111..........285
SEC.232........190........115..........300
VT..256.........215........103..........440
EXH.252........210........111..........400
Comp Cams and Zex #59300
Adv Duration Duration@.050
___Int/Exh__Int/Exh_Lobe Sep_Gross Lift
PRI..232........190........111..........300
SEC.236........194........115..........310
VT...260........220........107..........455
EXH.268........216........111..........430

D16Y8 Cams
Stock D16Y8 Cam
Adv Duration Duration@.050
___Int/Exh__Int/Exh_Lobe Sep_Gross Lift
PRI..211........183........115..........300
SEC.215........187........113..........319
VT...247........217........114..........397
EXH.235........204........110..........370
Crane#252-0010
Adv Duration Duration @ .050
____Int/Exh__Int/Exh__Lobe Sep___Gross Lift
PR.....214.........186.........108.............319
SEC...218.........190.........106.............327
VT.....258.........224.........106.............423
EXH...238.........210.........114.............386
Crane#252-0012
Adv Duration Duration@.050
____Int/Exh__Int/Exh____Lobe Sep__Gross Lift
PRI...214.........186..............112...........3 19
SEC..218.........190..............110...........32 7
VT....266.........232..............110...........4 43
EXH..246.........218..............114...........40 6

[Trip]

How to Adjust D16 Valve Clearance

CAUTION:Always rotate engine in direction of normal rotation(counterclockwise as viewed from front of engine). Reverse rotation may cause timing belt to jump time.Rocker Arms are made of aluminum and can be damaged if lock nuts are overtightened so be careful.

Note: Valves should only be adjusted when engine is cold with temp of it less than 100 degrees F.

Step 1...Remove Valve Cover.Remove Upper Timing Belt Cover.Rotate Crankshaft counterclockwise until No. 1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke.Up mark on camshaft pulley should be on top,TDC marks should align with cylinder head upper surface or TDC groove should align with pointer on back cover..see pic below

Step 2..Loosen adjusting screw lock nut on cylinder No. 1.Adjust valve clearance to spec on all valves for No. 1 cylinder.Turn Adjustment screw until a feeler guage slides back and forth with a slight drag.Tighten lock nut to spec and recheck valve adjustment..Cylinder No.1 is done

Step 3 Rotate crankshaft counterclockwise 180 degrees(camshaft pulley rotates 90 degrees) Up mark on camshaft pulley should be on the exhaust side.Adjust all valves for Cylinder No.3

Step 4 Rotate crankshaft counterclockwise 180 degrees(camshaft pulley rotates 90 degrees) Up mark on camshaft pulley should be down(both TDC grooves will be visible again).Adjust all valves for Cylinder No.4

Step 5 Rotate crankshaft counterclockwisw 180 degrees(camshaft pulley rotates 90 degrees) Up mark on camshaft pulley should be on the intake side.Adjust all valves for Cylinder No.2

Step 6 ..Ensure crankshaft pulley bolt is tightened to spec


Timing Belt Adjustment
CAUTION:Always rotate engine in direction of normal rotation(counterclockwise as viewed from front of engine). Reverse rotation may cause timing belt to jump time.

Note: Timing Belt should only be adjusted when engine is cold with temp of it less than 100 degrees F.

Step 1. Remove Valve Cover.Remove upper timing belt cover.Rotate crankshaft counterclockwise until No.1 cylinder is at TDC of compression stroke..see above pic.Loosen timing belt adjuster bolt 180 degrees,see pic below.

Step 2. Rotate crankshaft 3 teeth counterclockwise on camshaft pulley to create tension on timing belt. Tighten adjuster bolt to spec.Ensure crankshaft pulley bolt is tightened to spec.Reinstall valve cover,timing cover and your done!

[Trip]

And here are some additionally useful links:

Injector science
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm
http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm

D Tranny Specs
http://www.dmoore.com/crx/tranny.htm
http://home.cinci.rr.com/mistab0ne/tranny.html

A Cool D compression calculator
http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/D.htm

A favorite thread i like to visit discussing the Z head vs Y
http://pub143.ezboard.com/fhon...topic

The Great Spade HT Page..great info for those trying to build a low budget D
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=335078

[Trip]

Here are some of the break in tips that I like to use. Adjust according to your preferences:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[Trip]

Some very much needed pinouts, I dunno how many times I see people asking for these.

[Trip]

[Trip]

[Trip]

[Trip]

Here is an invaluable article written by Pollito, Admin and owner of www.turbod16.com.

This explains what "Poormans Hondata"; a.k.a. AFC Hack, is and how it works:

What is the AFC hack?

It is a method of fuel management that uses Apexi's AFC fuel controller and larger injectors of your choosing.

Why is it so widely discussed?

It it one of the cheapest tunable fuel management systems for forced induction use.

So, how does it work?

Well, with a forced induction setup we obviously want to supply more fuel while in boost than stock would allow us. This is where the AFC comes in. The unit allows you to richen or lean your fuel +/- 50% The unit does this by interceoting your MAP signal and modifies it to trick your ECU into thinking you are getting more or less air than you actually are. So that sounds great. I'll go pick up an AFC and use it on my stock fuel setup. Well, thiis is where the problem is and why the "hack" was thought up. If you just richen up your boosted car using the stock injectors, your MAP sesnor will read boost and throw your ECU into limp mode. Why does the ECU go into limp mode? Well, your ecu does not have fuel tables for anything above vacuum, so it shits a brick. Wow that sucks huh? This is where we buy larger injectors. Most people go for 350-550cc injectors. Of those people the most popular are the dsm 450s and the RC 440s. These are the most popular because they offer the best idle on stock fuel maps but still allow you to boost 8-12 psi before going into limp mode.

How do I set the AFC for larger injectors?

We are actually going to lean things out with the AFC. If we just stick in larger injectors the car won't even run. It would be ungodly rich running on the stock fuel map. The ECU has no idea there are 100% larger injectors sitting in the rail and is still sending the same injector pulses. So how much should you lean out? Let's say you have 240cc injectors stock (most civics) and you want to idle a set of 440cc injectors as if they were stock. With a little math we see this:

240/440 = 54%/100%

So we need to take 46% of the fuel away from 440cc injectors to run them like 240cc injectors. Now this is not a perfect conversion because there are more factors than this, but it gives you a ballpark # to start with. As for settings under boost that varies a lot, but under WOT and full boost of 8-12psi a setting of -35 to -30 on the AFC should keep things good and rich.

[Cold_Beer]

VTEC

VTEC (standing for Variable valve Timing and lift Electronic Control) is a system developed by the car manufacturer Honda to improve the combustion efficiency of its internal combustion engines throughout the RPM range.

Introduction to VTEC

In the regular four-stroke automobile engine, the intake and exhaust valves are actuated by lobes on a camshaft. The shape of the lobes' determine both the timing and the lift of each valve. Timing refers to when a valve is opened or closed with respect to the combustion cycle. Lift refers to how much the valve is opened. Due to the behavior of the gases (air and fuel mixture) before and after combustion, which have physical limitations on their flow, as well as their interaction with the ignition spark, the optimal valve timing and lift settings under low RPM engine operations are very different from those under high RPM. Optimal low RPM valve timing and lift settings would result in insufficient fuel and air at high RPMs, thus greatly limiting engine power output. Conversely, optimal high RPM valve timing and lift settings would result in very rough low RPM operation and difficult idling. The ideal engine would have fully variable valve timing and lift, in which the valves would always open at exactly the right point and lift high enough for the engine speed in use.

In practice, such a perfectly adjustable timing and lift system is complex and expensive to implement and is therefore found only in costly experimental and limited production engines. The vast majority of modern automobile engines operate with a fixed camshaft profile that represents a compromise between low RPM smoothness and high RPM power output. And since the average automobile engine spend most of its time running in the low RPM region, there is typically more emphasis on low RPM smoothness at the expense of high RPM output. Performance-tuned engines have cam profiles that are optimised more towards high RPM operation, where the greatest power can be obtained, but this means that low speed operation is compromised. Anyone who has heard a racing car or a highly-tuned hot rod sitting at idle will note that the engine sounds like it is barely capable of running at that speed.

DOHC VTEC

Honda's VTEC system is a simple and fairly elegant method of endowing the engine with multiple camshaft profiles optimized for low and high RPM operations. Instead of only one cam lobe actuating each valve, there are two - one optimised for low RPM smoothness and one to maximize high RPM power output. Switching between the two cam lobes is controlled by the engine's management computer. As engine RPM increases, a locking pin is pushed by oil pressure to bind the high RPM cam follower for operation. From this point on, the valve opens and closes according to the high-speed profile, which opens the valve further and for a longer time. The VTEC system was originally introduced as a DOHC system in the 1989 Honda Integra sold in Japan, which used a 160HP variant of the B16A engine. The US market saw the first VTEC system with the introduction of the 1990 Acura NSX, which used a DOHC V6. The DOHC VTEC system has high and low RPM cam lobe profiles on both the intake and exhaust valve camshafts. This resulted in the most power gain at high RPMs and DOHC VTEC engines were thus used in the highest performance Honda automobiles. In contrast to the SOHC implementation which switches between cam profiles seamlessly, when the DOHC version switches cams there is a definite change in the engine note.

SOHC VTEC

As popularity and marketing value of the VTEC system grew, Honda applied the system to SOHC engines, which shares a common camshaft for both intake and exhaust valves. The trade-off is that SOHC engines only benefit from the VTEC mechanism on the intake valves while the exhaust valves are still actuated by a single cam profile.

SOHC VTEC-E

Honda's next version of VTEC, VTEC-E, was used in a slightly different way; instead of optimising performance at high RPMs, it was used to increase efficiency at low RPMs. At low RPMs, only one of the two intake valves is allowed to open, increasing the fuel/air mixture's swirl in the cylinder and thus allowing a very lean mixture to be used. As the engine's speed increases, both valves are needed to supply sufficient mixture, and thus a sliding pin as in the regular VTEC is used to connect both valves together and start the second one moving too.

In North American markets, VTEC-E can be found in Honda's most fuel efficient cars, including the 1992-1995 Civic VX and 1996-2000 Civic HX.

3-Stage VTEC

Honda also introduced a 3-stage VTEC system in select markets, which combines the features of both DOHC VTEC and SOHC VTEC-E. At low speeds, only one intake valve is used. At medium speeds, two are used. At high speeds, the engine switches to a high-speed cam profile as in regular VTEC. Thus, both low-speed economy and high-speed efficiency and power are improved.

i-VTEC

As successful as the VTEC system has been, one of the key arguments against it in comparison to competing systems is that it had only two profiles for timing and lift. i-VTEC answers the critics by introducing continuously variable timing. The valve lift is still a 2-stage setup as before, but the camshaft is now rotated via hydraulic control to advance or retard valve timing. The effect is further optimization of torque output, especially at low RPMs.

VTEC in motorcycles

Apart from the Japanese market-only Honda CB400 Super Four Hyper VTEC, introduced in 1999, the first worldwide implementation of VTEC technology in a motorcycle occurred with the introduction of Honda's VFR800 sportbike in 2002. Similar to the SOHC VTEC-E style, one intake valve remains closed until a threshold of 7000 rpms is reached, then the second valve is opened by an oil-pressure actuated pin. The dwell of the valves remains unchanged, as in the automobile VTEC-E, and little extra power is produced but with a smoothing-out of the torque curve. Critics maintain that VTEC adds little to the VFR experience while increasing the engine's complexity. Drivability is a concern for some who are wary of the fact that the VTEC may activate in the middle of an aggressive corner, upsetting the stability and throttle response of the bike.

References

Honda Motor Co., Ltd. (2004). Technology Close-up (http://world.honda.com/motorcycle-technology/vtec/). Retrieved Sep. 16, 2004.

Driving with VTEC

The original VTEC technology did not do all that much to improve engine power or efficiency at low speeds, though it did mean that Honda did not need to consider high-speed operation at all for its low-speed cam profile. Thus, this has led some to accuse VTEC of being more hype than actual improvement for the average driver. The counter-argument is that with VTEC the higher-speed power is there if the driver needs it. Unlike a higher displacement or force induced engine of similar power output, VTEC allows a smaller and more efficient engine. The ability of the VTEC engines to develop higher RPMs, however, allowed Honda to deliver them with transmissions having lower gearing, which served to increase the acceleration.

Having VTEC does mean that the engine needs to be run at high RPMs to develop maximum power. This requires the constant attention of the driver to keep the power in the optimal RPM band for high-speed driving. Some feel this is an interesting driving challenge, while others find it bothersome.

[H82LOSE]

We have a helpful Honda & Acura Motor Swap DVD