gotta quick fox 5 lug swap question

[50Mustang]

do you use the sn 95 brake hoses with the fox conversion brake fitting...

or use the fox hoses with the sn95 banjo bolts?

not sure how to do i am currently waiting on lower ball joint and and powder coating on the calipers before reassembly.

ne quick ideas on how to remove the old ball joints? they seem like a pain in the ass to remove any help is greatly appreciated.

[harold harper]

u use the s/n95 brake lines,passenger side has a different fitting on thee hard line. u will have to use a adapter or cut the end off the steel line and slip the new fitting on and re flare the line. there is a tool to remove them but it would be easier to remove the control arms and take them to a shop. they can press out the old ones and install the new ones. try all american street cars. na306stang owns the the places and is in the tr shops section. he can get it done for you.

[50Mustang]

so i can't use the banjo bolt from the sn95 calipers with the current fox lines? i have read alot of articles that they say they do that and them i read some who use the adapter. i just need to know what would be the best way before i order new brake lines i either need new fox brake lines both sides or new sn95 brake lines both sides.

[SVT1996Cobra]

use sn95 lines with 94+ calipers. Go to napa and ask for a Weatherhead 7828 fitting for the passenger side line.

As for the balljoint, goto advance and use their loan-a-tool balljoint removal tool.

[SVT1996Cobra]

also, if changing balljoints now, go with 94+ balljoints so you don't have to use spacers for the castle nut.

All this if if you're using 94+ spindles & calipers BTW

[50Mustang]

already ordered the fox ball joints. can i just use spacers or would it be best to order 95 ball joints? i am using ranger drums and 95 gt spindles hubs calipers ect.

[harold harper]

stack so big flat washers on it and put the nut and cotter pin on.

[50Mustang]

they should be grade 8 washers correct? totaling.333 in from what i have been reading.

[SVT1996Cobra]

Correct, 5/8" grade 8 washers totaling .330" (roughly 3 thick washers)

If you can, return the fox balljoints and get sn95 instead, that would be the "correct" way since you are changing balljoints anyways.

[Hurstmeister]

they should be grade 8 washers correct? totaling.333 in from what i have been reading.

Here is a picture of mine.
This is fox a-arm with fox ball joint. The spindle/hub/caliper is from a 96 Cobra.


See how deep the castle nut goes. It cant torque the spindle/hub down to the ball joint by itself. The nut and ball joint end up into the strut. As it sits you really cant get much of a wrench on it. It would be easier with SN95 ball joints. Though as stated it can be done using washers to shim it up.

This was just to show an example.
I will have the AJE k-member with tubular a-arms with sn95 ball joints when done.

Hope this helps.

Hurst

[50Mustang]

i don't see a spring in your setup are you running coil overs? and i already sogned for the fox ball joint to send them back would cost 6 shipping plus a 20% restock fee and by the time its over i would only be getting 7 dollars back ill just shim them up i guess

[Hurstmeister]

i don't see a spring in your setup are you running coil overs? and i already sogned for the fox ball joint to send them back would cost 6 shipping plus a 20% restock fee and by the time its over i would only be getting 7 dollars back ill just shim them up i guess

Yes, coil overs front and rear.

I was only suggesting that if it wasnt too late that the SN95 ball joint would be the best way to go. I thought you just got them from the parts store. Thats where I usually go for them. Certainly not the only way to go. You will be fine shimming them up.

Hurst

[50Mustang]

yeah grade 8 washers minimum .330 in thick total. and i am running 10in wide rims out back is that going to rub the shock? or should it be ok?

[Hurstmeister]

yeah grade 8 washers minimum .330 in thick total. and i am running 10in wide rims out back is that going to rub the shock? or should it be ok?

With stock suspension and fox length axles out back 10" rim with a 6.5 back space will fit. You will need to remove the quads as they will be in the way. The stock lowers should be replaced with aftermarket that have the round bushings or you will experience severe wheel hop during hard acceleration.

If you go with 17" rims you can try a 315/35 tire but be weary that certain brands are wider than others. You will more than likely need to employ the BFH mod to the inner fender well to get a 315 tire to fit with out rubbing. If you go with 18" wheels I would not go wider than a 285 or 295 tire at the most. Bare in mind that Mustangs are very light in the rear. When you go with wide tires (Front and rear) the car will be prone to hydroplaning during rainy weather. It happens when you least expect it and it doesnt take a lot of water for it to happen. I have had it happen to me twice. I have learned to slow it down in the rain or risk losing my ride.

Hurst

[50Mustang]

i don't wanna sound like a dumb ass but what is a quad and how do i remove it? and what stock lowers are to be replaced?