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Old 07-22-2008, 11:28 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I agree with not needing the extra stroke, but BB does unshroud the valves a lot - still would only do it if I was going for a max effort NA motor. FWIW, I did have a 302 stroker and when we pulled it apart, the walls still looked fine - nothing like that, but it was NA too.


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Old 07-23-2008, 08:31 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Turn the boost up 1 more pound, save the money and make more power.


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Old 07-23-2008, 04:41 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I have heard people having issues with the Darton sleeves getting the heads to seal, leaking issues etc..

For N/A I am all about the BB setup on the mod motors, I'm only a fan of the stroker setups when you are not going to be turning the motor high RPMS.


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Old 07-23-2008, 07:50 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I've also heard of sealing problems when not using a MLS head gasket. I think with a BB setup with a Cometic would out fine, but what do i know? I know when i have extra $$$$ i will be going with a max effort N/A motor. I'm looking to either go BB or just step up to a DOHC 5.4.


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Old 07-23-2008, 08:11 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Old 07-23-2008, 09:21 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by IwinUlose View Post
I'm looking to either go BB or just step up to a DOHC 5.4.
I wish there was a BB 5.4 or even better an Aluminum 5.4 that you could sleeve to be a BB. I want the BB so that I can take advantage of the added flow for N/A use on a 3v head. The BB does wonders for increased flow


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Old 07-23-2008, 09:32 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by IwinUlose View Post
I'm looking to either go BB or just step up to a DOHC 5.4.
Go 5.4. Better rod ratio and more potential. MMR does sell a cast iron BB 5.4. Total cubic inches is 351. But its hella expensive. I think 3300$. And hasn't been proven that the sleeves don't shift. However, you can get the aluminum GT block that is a 5.4. Ofcourse that one is about the same price
($3200).

Bottom line to save your money and keep reliability relatively high, either for a FI motor keep stock displacement or a max effort N/A motor go BB.

-Mark


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Old 07-23-2008, 09:55 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Mark you an i are similar in ways. You like to trun the piss out of your cobra at strip, where as i like to turn the piss out of my car out on the twisties an open track. I'd love to have street/strip/open track car but i its not really feasable. So i think when it comes time to order a engine i will be giving John at MP a call, Becaus ei'd like to stay with the B heads.


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Old 07-23-2008, 10:50 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Well I can tell you that John will ask you why are you staying with B's when staying N/A. I think for auto crossing where you keep the rpms high and try to stretch out the gears as much as possible I'd say a BB aluminum 4.6. That way the nose of the car will be ligher and depending on the cams selection and valvetrain you could easily spin 8000-8500rpms. Just make sure you have an adequate oil system. Maybe an external pump. I thought of going for a max effort N/A B headed 5.4 but after researching pricing its a lot and I'd only make about 400-420rwhp. I can get that with base vortech/novi kit. Plus max effort n/a motor is not fun on the street. Good luck with your build. -Mark


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Old 07-23-2008, 11:05 PM   #25 (permalink)
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lutz
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You bring up good points. I know the cranks an teksid block can take a lot of abuse. I know the weakest link is the rotating assembly are the rods and pistons. Al Papitto's 96 Cobra was making 462rwhp using a 00' R motor. I know boost is the quickest way to get there, But i get tired of reading all guys using a Centrifugal chargers throwing belts. I may just do a whippled DOHC 5.4. the world may never know as its gonna be a few months while i decide which route to go.


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Old 07-23-2008, 11:19 PM   #26 (permalink)
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How about a lightweight teksid block with Mach 1 heads and FR500 intake? I'm sure that would get you over 400rwhp. Ya Al's 96 is sweet. Ya I was also leary about going the centri route but alot of guys having belt issues normally are above 15psi. So if I did put a blower on my car I'd keep the boost level down for now.. then once the motor was built I'd swap to an 8 rib that should solve the majority of an issues. -Mark


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Old 07-23-2008, 11:43 PM   #27 (permalink)
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lutz
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well the vehicle in question is a Cobra swap gt... It has the teksid block to begin with. That sounds like it would work out great, but arent Mach 1 heads the same as the 03-04 cobra heads "C" heads?


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Old 07-24-2008, 12:59 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bitemark46 View Post
How about a lightweight teksid block with Mach 1 heads and FR500 intake? I'm sure that would get you over 400rwhp. Ya Al's 96 is sweet. Ya I was also leary about going the centri route but alot of guys having belt issues normally are above 15psi. So if I did put a blower on my car I'd keep the boost level down for now.. then once the motor was built I'd swap to an 8 rib that should solve the majority of an issues. -Mark
I had that exact combo and it was even a stroker. Made 360 to the wheels with unported heads. NA power is hard to come by. I'm sure there was some left in the tune too. Even guys who go NA with ported everything hover around the 400 mark. You really have to spin those motors and use a lot of gear to have fun on the street though.


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Old 07-24-2008, 09:24 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Only 360? Something was a miss in your setup. I've seen stock displacement B headed motors make 370-380rwhp N/A. JIMS SVT on corral made 382 with just H/C/I on his 98 cobra and a dude on SVTP made 380 with the same setup but with higher compression.

Shalom96 here locally had a stroker w/ H/C/I and made 430rwhp. If I just add cams to my car I'd be close to 360rwhp. Its all in getting the right parts to work together.

I hear ya though on the streetability. Running big gears is cool but not fun on the interstate. 3k and I'm only doing 70. But man 1st gear is a rush. lol.

-Mark


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