Fan Control Circuit Failure?
Fan Control Circuit Failure?
I don't know if any of you guys know, but I was playing with my pop's '95 Mustang GT today and it's throwing an error code 564 when we run an OBD diagnostic scan. I guess this is a fan control circuit or relay or something from what I've read, and it appears to be part of the CCRM on the side of the radiator. Do I have to replace the whole CCRM to get this thing working right?
That's the multifunction box controls your fan, a/c, f/p and lots of other stuff.
So if the fan control function took a dump you'll need to replace the entire box. Check and make sure that the 40 amp(I think) fuse located in the distribution box under the hood is not blown. I've even seen some come with a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. If the breaker fails, no fan and trouble codes are not to far behind.
So if the fan control function took a dump you'll need to replace the entire box. Check and make sure that the 40 amp(I think) fuse located in the distribution box under the hood is not blown. I've even seen some come with a circuit breaker instead of a fuse. If the breaker fails, no fan and trouble codes are not to far behind.
See, the fan works. It kicks on when it's hot or when the A/C is turned on, but it appears to fuck up the way the car runs. If we're in the car and it gets hot, it gets stange voltage problems, sometimes the dash lights'll flicker, and the car generally runs like dog shit. So, word on the street is that I have to replace the whole CCRM box, huh? That's the box on the side of the shroud with the 24 wires, not the on the back of the fan motor, right?
Sounds odd. If all that shit is working like it should I'd say, before you replace the box,to try and unplug the fan when the car starts to run like shit. It sounds like an electrical problem. I'm running all that 10 year old 95' shit in my car and the shit is so old and brittle. My experience with those relay boxes is that they work or they don't. Sounds like the fan motor is on it's way out.
Originally Posted by ls1killer
Sounds odd. If all that shit is working like it should I'd say, before you replace the box,to try and unplug the fan when the car starts to run like shit. It sounds like an electrical problem. I'm running all that 10 year old 95' shit in my car and the shit is so old and brittle. My experience with those relay boxes is that they work or they don't. Sounds like the fan motor is on it's way out.
sounds like your fan motor might be getting ready to take a dump....sounds like it might be pulling to many amps.. and the car will run like shit if that is the case. Same as the lights flickering and so on. How many miles are on the car?...
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Sn95' Tripple Black Cobra
Mods:Heads/Cam/Intake/Exhaust...just your typical stock mustang...
Sn95' Tripple Black Cobra
Mods:Heads/Cam/Intake/Exhaust...just your typical stock mustang...
Originally Posted by Frank
The guys on stangnet.com think the same thing. I'll check the wiring next weekend while we're in there yanking out the smog pump. We've also got the ever-so-common '94-'95 knocking at WOT issue to deal with too. I think we might just be getting near the time to rebuild this old motor.
Like 150k on the car, so I'm actually pretty impressed that these are the only problems we're having. Those electric fans just seem to suck in this generation Mustang. It might be worth putting a Perma-Cool in and just hardwiring it on. Damn Ford electronics.
From what I've read, the WOT ping is carbon buildup in the heads. We timed the car back to 10 degree manufacturer spec and adjusted the TPS to be almost exactly .98 volts at idle. It still knocked a little, but with the addition of new ignition stuff it basically went away. We tipped the timing up to 14 degrees to give the throttle some grunt, but still just a slight knock. I'm gonna run steam through the engine next weekend to see if we can break down some of that carbon buildup.
Worst case scenario, we pull the motor and rebuild it. It's got 150k on it and it's a bone stock 302. That car could use a little buildup anyway. An aluminum head 347 sounds like a much better engine to be under the hood if you ask me.
From what I've read, the WOT ping is carbon buildup in the heads. We timed the car back to 10 degree manufacturer spec and adjusted the TPS to be almost exactly .98 volts at idle. It still knocked a little, but with the addition of new ignition stuff it basically went away. We tipped the timing up to 14 degrees to give the throttle some grunt, but still just a slight knock. I'm gonna run steam through the engine next weekend to see if we can break down some of that carbon buildup.
Worst case scenario, we pull the motor and rebuild it. It's got 150k on it and it's a bone stock 302. That car could use a little buildup anyway. An aluminum head 347 sounds like a much better engine to be under the hood if you ask me.