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Old 12-13-2003, 03:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Alum flywheel vs Steel flywheel debate let's hear it

I used to have a steel which was great on the launches but trying to save my tranny I went with a alum flywheel. I know in drag racing you need enrtia(sp?) but heres my question:

If your able to get the car to 60ft the same then the alum flywheel will allow the rpms to climb faster due to less rotating mass right? But if you shift slow then the rpms drop faster. Let me know your thoughts between the two FW. Thanks. -Mark


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Old 12-13-2003, 11:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The big thing is IF you can get it to launch the same. My car and every other WRX I've seen with a lightened flywheel has fallen on its face when trying to launch. With no wheel spin to get rid of some of the energy produced in the drivetrain and loss of rotating mass from the lighter flywheel it just bogs bad off the mine. That's something you might want to think about before doing it, I'm going to be pulling mine out soon and going back to the stock flywheel.


 
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Old 12-13-2003, 12:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I would only use an alum. flywheel in a high rpm combination (like my old S/B combo). Those types of combinations are all about lightweight components (rotating mass, valvetrain, trans/gears, etc) and they're geared up enough that getting the car to 60' isn't an issue. JUst my $.02 though.


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Old 12-23-2003, 03:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Also works great with a blower combo due to allowing the motor to rev faster which brings in boost faster. 60 ft may or may not suffer depending on torque output and launch rpm.


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Old 12-30-2003, 12:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I was coming out of the hole at 6k. so it never really affected me..


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Old 12-30-2003, 01:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm thinking that my first time out with the alum FW my et was so off cause I was over reving the car. I hit the limiter on the 1/2 and 2/3 shift. The tach used to be off alittle. I would shift at 7k and not hit the limiter. Now that tach is right on the money. Everytime I got the needle 1 pubic hair above 7k I tapped the limiter. I think I'll try 6800 and see what happens. -Mark


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Old 01-14-2004, 08:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Aluminum flywheels are 2 peices, the ring gear breaks off when the center is too hot. If you go with aluminum its not gonna be a daily driver. Also you should loss torque. Torque = rotating mass.


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Old 01-14-2004, 08:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Try billet steel my .02 cents


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Old 01-15-2004, 12:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Plopokiller
Aluminum flywheels are 2 peices, the ring gear breaks off when the center is too hot. If you go with aluminum its not gonna be a daily driver. Also you should loss torque. Torque = rotating mass.
OK


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Old 01-15-2004, 01:09 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Plopokiller
Aluminum flywheels are 2 peices, the ring gear breaks off when the center is too hot. If you go with aluminum its not gonna be a daily driver. Also you should loss torque. Torque = rotating mass.
Don't you mean rotating mass/heavy flywheel = enertia(sp?) A heavy rotating mass will give the sense of torque cause once the flywheel gives the tranny all that energy/power, the tranny passes it to the tires. That's why I would have to raise my launch rpms to equal the same 60ft. But once I achieve that, my car will accerlate faster due to less rotating mass for the motor to turn. My car is a daily driver. It's drives fine. I can get away with it cause my car is geared like a mofo! -Mark


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Old 01-15-2004, 07:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I toasted the steel flywheel in this pic. It happened after hitting the 150 shot. So my question is this would an aluminum flywheel actually be stronger, or would it flex more than said steel one.


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Old 01-16-2004, 01:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The ring gear would have just flew off, you are lucky it wasn't aluminum.

In reality, you can not say that "a" aluminum flywheel is stronger than a steal flywheel. There are too many varibles. Steel is more likely to crack from heat stress which can cause it to come apart but with better design, steel alloys and fabrication practices they can be made extremly strong.


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Old 01-16-2004, 10:28 AM   #13 (permalink)
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ive seen problems with aluminum flywheels losing ring gears and not keeping torque to the crank, but that's about it.

i run a chromoly jun flywheel in my car, its a bit harder to launch , but its definately worth it.

i think youre in more trouble if you overheat an aluminum flywheel than a steel, but as long as you dont slip the clutch too bad on either one , you should be fine.


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Old 01-16-2004, 12:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I have seen more troubles with Jun flywheels than any other aftermarket flywheel. Hell I don't even think they make them for DSMs anymore due to the problems. Most aluminum Flywheels I have seen have a bolt on steal ring gear. I can see if the gear is pressed on that it could come off, but if it is bolted down with locktite or good lock washer I really doubt it will come off.


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Old 01-23-2004, 01:08 AM   #15 (permalink)
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