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Old 03-14-2006, 08:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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torque specss

ok the book says "tighten the 10 11mm bolts in three steps, to the torque listed in this chapters specifications.

the specs are 11mm bolts to 60 lbs.

ok my question is do i tighten these bolts to 60lbs three times or do i divide the 60 pounds by 3 and torque them down 20lbs three times?


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Old 03-14-2006, 08:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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maybe 20...40 then 60?


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Old 03-14-2006, 08:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Car: 97 Dodge neon coupe(built SRT engine when I have the time) '66 mustang coupe(restomod project)
 
Franklin, TN
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umm, the only 11 mm bolts in the block should be the rod bolts...and there are only 8 of them...however there are 10 10mm bolts that hold the bedplate down along with the 10 13mm bolts, pretty much its three steps, you can really choose any stopping point you want as long as you are consistently at the same stopping point, I would go with Cali's suggestion of 20,40, 60(20ft/lbs stopping point for all of them, then go back and retorque them to 40, then a final time at 60) just for the most even torque distribution


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Old 03-14-2006, 09:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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so its 60 total lbs? and yes the book calls them 11mm but they are acctually 13. and there are ten of those for the main caps and 10 8mm for the outer rim of the bed cap.
thanks for the info..


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Old 03-14-2006, 09:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
Peon on steroids!

Car: 97 Dodge neon coupe(built SRT engine when I have the time) '66 mustang coupe(restomod project)
 
Franklin, TN
Josiah is an unknown quantity at this point: 100
there shouldnt be any 8mm bolts at all in the bottom end, 8mm would be too weak to hold the necessary torque, but anyway, yes its 60ft/lbs total in three progressive steps


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Old 03-14-2006, 10:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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sorry 10mm and 13mm. the book lists them as 8mm and 11mm.

hey funny thing i put the crank in torqued it all down went to put the rear main in and i noticed......it................................... ..............i put the fuckin crank in backwards. im fuckin pissed. i myself but at least i get to double check my work haha


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Old 03-15-2006, 06:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
Peon on steroids!

Car: 97 Dodge neon coupe(built SRT engine when I have the time) '66 mustang coupe(restomod project)
 
Franklin, TN
Josiah is an unknown quantity at this point: 100
ah, the book lists m8 and m11 which refer to thread size, not to the head size, my bad


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Old 03-15-2006, 07:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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now one of the freeze plugs are stuck and wont come out


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Old 03-15-2006, 08:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
Peon on steroids!

Car: 97 Dodge neon coupe(built SRT engine when I have the time) '66 mustang coupe(restomod project)
 
Franklin, TN
Josiah is an unknown quantity at this point: 100
heh, they are always a pain, did you get it turned sideways?


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Old 03-15-2006, 08:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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i cut it out with a dremmel.....the others came out the way they are supposed to but the one was a bitch


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Old 03-15-2006, 09:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
Peon on steroids!

Car: 97 Dodge neon coupe(built SRT engine when I have the time) '66 mustang coupe(restomod project)
 
Franklin, TN
Josiah is an unknown quantity at this point: 100
that was a plug in the water jacket right?(just making sure you didnt get metal shavings in an oil galley)


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Old 03-15-2006, 09:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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yes it was the big half dollar size holes in the side of the block. also i dont know where the oil galley plugs go. the threaded ones?


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Old 03-16-2006, 03:59 AM   #13 (permalink)
Peon on steroids!

Car: 97 Dodge neon coupe(built SRT engine when I have the time) '66 mustang coupe(restomod project)
 
Franklin, TN
Josiah is an unknown quantity at this point: 100
I wasnt talking about the threaded plugs...there are dime sized oil galley freeze plugs as well, but anyway, just gotta watch out for crap like that, metal shavings getting anywhere oil goes, doesnt matter if they get in the water jacket though


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Old 03-16-2006, 04:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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oh i havent put the oil one in yet. what do i put on the freeze plugs as far as sealant?


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