Lower Ball joint grease question(s)

[cali]

What kind of grease can be used in there? The FSM says use some Mopar crap or equivalent. I wanna buy the equivalent.

Also the FSM says you need a special tool to repalce the rubber seal...do you really need it?

Mine's been busted for well over a year and I have a new joint and boot, but the joint passes the test so only my boot needs to be changed. ( and probably regreased)

[Josiah]

well, I never was able to find an equivalent for the tranny fluid...there probably isnt one for grease either...IMO thats one thing you should cough up money for...correct fluids reccomended by the OEM, or performance equivalents if you can find them

[Dano Moparo]

INSTALLATION

1. Wipe off used grease around ball joint stem. CAUTION: When installing the sealing boot on the ball joint, position the upward lip on the seal boot outside perimeter outward, away from the control arm once installed (Seal Boot Installation). It is there to help shield heat from the sealing boot.
   
2. Place NEW ball joint seal boot over ball joint stem. Upward lip located on outside perimeter of seal boot must point outward, away from control arm once installed (Seal Boot Installation).
3. By hand, start sealing boot over sides of the ball joint.
4. Position Installer, Special Tool 6758, over sealing boot outer diameter as shown (Seal Boot Installation). By hand, apply pressure to top of Installer until seal boot is pressed squarely down against top surface of lower control arm.
5. Remove tool.
6. Remove headless grease fitting on ball joint and replace it with standard zirc-type grease fitting. Do not discard headless grease fitting. CAUTION: It is important to lubricate the ball joint before installation of steering knuckle to allow proper venting when the seal is filled. If the ball joint is lubricated after installation to knuckle, damage to the seal can occur.
   
7. Using a hand operated pump grease gun, fill the ball joint seal boot with Mopar® Multi-Mileage Lube or equivalent until grease pushes out past ball joint stem. Wipe off overfill.
8. Remove standard zirc-type grease fitting and reinstall headless grease fitting on ball joint to prevent future lubricating. See above caution.
9. Install steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - INSTALLATION)

INSTALLATION

1. Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
2. Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
3. Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut (Ball Joint Bolt And Nut). Tighten the nut to a torque of 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.). CAUTION: The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
   
4. Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes. Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 53 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
5. Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm.
6. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench (Tie Rod Nut Removal/Installation). To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud. Tighten the nut to a torque of 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.).
7. Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTOR - INSTALLATION)
8. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint.
9. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it (Hub Nut).
10. Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.)
11. Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut (Hub Nut). Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut (Correctly Installed Cotter Pin).
12. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL

[Dano Moparo]

I believe several common shop tools could be subsituted for any of the special tools listed above.

[cali]

Thanks for the info but I really need the equivalent if you know:

fill the ball joint seal boot with Mopar® Multi-Mileage Lube or equivalent until grease pushes out past ball joint stem.


SO you think a nice socket can be used to push the seal down?

[Dano Moparo]

It's p/n 4897841aa and looks like a tube of lube for your grease gun. The only dealers I see in the area that have it are Brandon Dodge, Crystal in Brooksville and Fairway in Kissimmee. I would prob try a socket to install it, but I'm a hack and always have to do things twice.

[cali]

Install went smooth...I just pulled the darn arm out, and used a pipe to press the new seal in. I didnt re-fill the grease yet though...thats for later, once I actually get the grease ( there isnt much missing)