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91 ranger, 88 tc 2.3 turbo, stroked, bored, 5.5" crower connecting rods, wiseco 8.0:1 dished pistons, total seal .030 rings, fully ported iron big valve head, racer walsh turbo roller cam, bobs log, holset wh1c, fmic, full 3" exhaust. not really a whole lot left to do.
93 explorer 4x4
You shouldn't need to take a wheels off. just jack the car up and then turn the gear using the wrenches that come with it. To get each side even What i used to do, was use one of those liquid paper pens to mark each side.
Step 1) Raise the car off of the ground.
Step 2) Unlock the 2 perch nuts from each other
Step 3) Spin the bottom perch nut to the desired height then measure the bottom of the nut to lowest part of the shock cup.
Step 4) Spin the upper perch nut & spring to the lower nut and lock both nuts together.
Step 5) Move to the other side of the vehicle and start with Step 1 again......
Shouldn't take more then 20 minutes to do all 4 sides.
Last edited by Outkasted24; 06-12-2007 at 08:52 PM.
If you are speaking of *adjustable* coilovers, it's easier
if you lift the car off the ground to get the car weight off the adjuster ring.
If you are speaking of "coilovers", meaning what most import cars
have: "a coil over the shock", then lowering the car is more complicated,
and some measuring is needed beforehand, so the springs are not flopping around loose, the suspension is not getting beat up, and the tires are not being eaten.-Bob
Be aware that when a car is lowered, the alignment changes. If you want it checked, get back with me. After an autocross, for example, when you raise it back up to clear the speed humps, you need to set the toe back
to what it was before you lowered it for the event.-Bob
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What do I do? ---- on-site *Aftermarket* spring/suspension installations --- on-site impact wrenching---street lowering with your own stock springs........... Much more at Bob's Garage! http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/bo...ontact-us.html