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Robert Barnes I have a 2002 carbureted Heritage Softail. It won’t start. Checked fire at plugs with a test plug and got no fire at all. Battery is hot and it will spin over briskly, but won’t crank. The last time I ran it, it developed and miss and a spit back and sounded like it was running only on one cylinder. Tried to let it run to warm up and went dead. No crank after that and no fire. I check the main circuit breaker under battery box and it checks good. Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions?

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Dennis Santopietro
Not sure what you mean by: “battery hot” but the battery should never feel hot.
If it was possible, at this time, to start your m/c; the 1st thing we would suggest is to test your charging system.
Be sure you are starting with a, known, good battery. Anything older than 4 or 5 years old may show 12 volts, but lack sufficient amperage. Use a volt meter to test for 12 volts at your ignition coil. If you have no voltage there, you will need to see if you are getting proper voltage to/from your start and run switches. Check your ignition fuse. If it is blown, you have a dead short somewhere in your ignition system’s path. Check your speedo for DTC’s. Your problem may be caused by a bad crank position sensor. Or you may have a code that points to your ECM or turn signal security module.

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don richard
I had the same problem with my 04 fxstsi. It ended up being leaks in the fuel lines inside the tank. This caused low pressure in the lines plus when the fuel level was low the fuel lines were sucking air and the engine would die.

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Customer Service Techs
First thing you should check is your charging system. A bad charging system can make a bike misfire, or just run really bad.
http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/chargi...gnosis-002187/
If the ignition system is all complete and known good; you can isolate it from the rest of your wiring harness to see if you have a problem within your wiring harness. Remove the +12V wire that powers your coil. This wire is usually white, or white with a black tracer. Make a good jumper wire and run it from the positive battery terminal to the coil post, where you removed the white +12V wire.
Make this jumper so that you can quickly/easily unplug it when you need to kill the ignition (you will not be able to turn off m/c until the wire is disconnected). If this solves the problem, you need to search for a dead short within your wiring harness.
If your charging system tests good, your ignition system is new and tests good and you still have this problem after isolating the ignition system; unfortunately, you may be looking at a mechanical problem.

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Stephen
I have an 2007 FLSTC 96ci , I had same issue after fueling, it started to sputter 30 minutes after filling. Does the same thing as your wife’s FLSTC. I changed plugs, still the same. I cleaned air filter, still the same. I tried puter diagnose, CODE P0131 which is O2 front sensor, called Harley and asked ” if I disconnect the O2 front sensor, will it still run?” Harley said ” yes but it will throw code” . Once again disconnected the O2 front sensor( seems to me I should be able to remove too, people do run straight pipes on same motor!), did the same again, misfire. Charged the battery, same again, misfire. My last resort now is change the fuel, maybe this will work. [(I have 37,000 miles on my 2007 FLSTC,just read another blog that the Harley twin cam is manufactured with plastic pieces on the gears!! Harley does not recognize this
failure as factory recall. Only solution change to straight gear set up. ..but first I will change fuel. (Just a friendly heads up, as Harley does not recognize this failure as their own!)]

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Mike
I have a 2005 Harley sportster 1200 FC custom driving down the highway today and 70 miles an hour all of a sudden the drop-down about 10 miles an hour and it felt as if I lost a bunch of power when it stop it stays running and it fires up if he shut it off however the back jug doesn’t seem to be getting full power I don’t think it’s fuel because I think it may be electrical wires coil does anybody have any suggestions please if you do email me

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Customer Service Techs
Hi Mike. Do a compression test. Front & rear cylinders must be within 10% of each other.

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Frank
Wow I read all this stuff and watched the video on how to change the fuel pump and filter. My 2008 Dyna Glide would start and I would get a little ways down the road, five or six blocks and it started stalling out. It was hard getting it to run long enough to get home. A friend of mine came by (who claims to be an expert) came over and he was spitting out suggestions real fast.

Well I didn’t want to look dumb so when we had it going a little I reached over and took the gas cap off. He had just got through telling me that wouldn’t help none when she smoothed right out. He couldn’t believe it. He revved her up to about 4000 RPM and held till the air coming out the tailpipe was pretty hot. We tried it five or six times during the next hour or so and we couldn’t get it to mess up again.

The gas was real low in the tank 1/8 th or less according to the gauge then I added gas before we got it going good. I noticed condensation all over the bike so I wonder if it just built up too much condensation in the tank when it got real cold and warmed up again and just had too much in the tank before I added gas. I am going to keep the tank full during the winter I guess.