autocross pads?

**w0rd** · 02-03-2004, 05:36 PM

Are autocross pads easier to fade than OEM pads based on the fact that they generate more heat?

I faded my pads on my 20 min drive home from work today. That has never happened with my OEM pads.

Maybe the pads need some kind of burn in where you have to smoke them at least once before they are good.

The pads are Axxis Ultimates and they were installed 3 or 4 weeks ago.

**g-50Cab** · 02-03-2004, 05:41 PM

faded - as in more effort to stop, usually from continious stopping from high speeds? Sounds like you have other issues unless you live at the bottom of a really long hill.

**Loren** · 02-03-2004, 06:29 PM

Did you follow the pad break-in procedure that should have come with the pads? I've heard that this is critical for Axxis Ultimates. (and other hi-po pads) The break-in consists of just what you mentioned: usually about 10-hard stops to get the pads smokin' hot, and then allow them to cool.

Give this StopTech article a read. The topic is "warped brake rotors", but it really talks a lot about pads. Good stuff.

PseudoRealityX · 02-03-2004, 08:15 PM

did you fade the pads or the fluid?

faded pads will NOT stop...

faded fluid will make the pedal feel like complete mush, but it will, sorta, slow down.

my guess would be fluid. You shouldn't be able to fade oem pads at an autocross, much less pads built for performance on your drive home.

Fluid should be replaced at least every year, and use a good fluid. I like Valvoline's DOT4 stuff. Cheap, available.

**w0rd** · 02-03-2004, 09:37 PM

I just went out and did some hard stops. After 6-7 hard stops from 50-60 mph the pads are SMOKING and have severly decreased stopping power. Pedal isn't mushy at all, just hard. It does have a TINY bit of increased travel though.

Fluid is valvoline and less than a year old, but wasn't changed with the pads. I didn't change the pads or rotors myself. After I got the car back, the next day I noticed the reservoir was overflowing. Maybe some air or water was introduced somehow. I guess I am going to try a flush and then start from there.

mofugga · 02-03-2004, 10:35 PM

if you didn't install them are you sure they are the pads you bought? mine got grippier as i was breaking them in though i have hawks.

the initial break-in period is vital to the pads life/effectiveness.

hopefully the flush works

PseudoRealityX · 02-04-2004, 12:07 AM

break in for my hawks on the protege was....

5 30-0 stops, done gentley
3 stops 50-0, intermediate
2 stops 70-0 HARD

let car sit at least 2 hours. have fun.

**w0rd** · 02-04-2004, 12:07 AM

Just went back out and did a bunch more hard stops. They seem good now. No smoke and no fading. I guess you have to practically catch these things on fire to break them in.

**Loren** · 02-04-2004, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by w0rd
Just went back out and did a bunch more hard stops. They seem good now. No smoke and no fading. I guess you have to practically catch these things on fire to break them in.

There ya go.

It's got to do with transferring brake pad material to the rotor.

Glad to hear they're working now!

**w0rd** · 02-04-2004, 12:13 AM

Yeah, that was it. The rotors and pads are a different color now. I guess 4 weeks of hard street driving and a Sunriders autocross weren't enough to break them in.

sloaccord · 02-04-2004, 12:45 AM

when i broke in my pads, they smoked like a bastard and smelled like ass. i've read of some glowing rotors on break in, even. .. .

but now, after two weeks, i've managed to warp brand new rotors. this sucks.

oilleak · 02-04-2004, 10:20 AM

Haven't put my new ones on yet but (KPF's) but along with the get 'em real hot instructions, they also recomend cleaning the rotors (if they're not new or freshly turned) with MEK to make sure there's not any of the old pad material still adheared to the rotor. They said they're compound sometimes doesn't play well with other compounds that may still be on the rotors.

02-03-2004, 05:36 PM	#1 (permalink)
w0rd Moderator Car: RWD Civic My TRGarage : 43047513	autocross pads? Are autocross pads easier to fade than OEM pads based on the fact that they generate more heat? I faded my pads on my 20 min drive home from work today. That has never happened with my OEM pads. Maybe the pads need some kind of burn in where you have to smoke them at least once before they are good. The pads are Axxis Ultimates and they were installed 3 or 4 weeks ago.

02-03-2004, 05:41 PM	#2 (permalink)
g-50Cab TR Balla Donor Supreme Car: Poorscha Cabriolet My TRGarage Paradise : 101306071	faded - as in more effort to stop, usually from continious stopping from high speeds? Sounds like you have other issues unless you live at the bottom of a really long hill.

02-03-2004, 06:29 PM	#3 (permalink)
Loren Moderator Car: 2007 Toyota Yaris LB . . . 1976 Triumph Spitfire My TRGarage Safety Harbor : 65156010	Did you follow the pad break-in procedure that should have come with the pads? I've heard that this is critical for Axxis Ultimates. (and other hi-po pads) The break-in consists of just what you mentioned: usually about 10-hard stops to get the pads smokin' hot, and then allow them to cool. Give this StopTech article a read. The topic is "warped brake rotors", but it really talks a lot about pads. Good stuff.

02-03-2004, 08:15 PM	#4 (permalink)
PseudoRealityX cone junkie Car: 1993 MR2 My TRGarage Gainesville, FL : 210	did you fade the pads or the fluid? faded pads will NOT stop... faded fluid will make the pedal feel like complete mush, but it will, sorta, slow down. my guess would be fluid. You shouldn't be able to fade oem pads at an autocross, much less pads built for performance on your drive home. Fluid should be replaced at least every year, and use a good fluid. I like Valvoline's DOT4 stuff. Cheap, available.

02-03-2004, 09:37 PM	#5 (permalink)
w0rd Moderator Car: RWD Civic My TRGarage : 43047513	I just went out and did some hard stops. After 6-7 hard stops from 50-60 mph the pads are SMOKING and have severly decreased stopping power. Pedal isn't mushy at all, just hard. It does have a TINY bit of increased travel though. Fluid is valvoline and less than a year old, but wasn't changed with the pads. I didn't change the pads or rotors myself. After I got the car back, the next day I noticed the reservoir was overflowing. Maybe some air or water was introduced somehow. I guess I am going to try a flush and then start from there.

02-03-2004, 10:35 PM	#6 (permalink)
mofugga who stole my intercooler? Car: 00 RS My TRGarage clearwater : 404	if you didn't install them are you sure they are the pads you bought? mine got grippier as i was breaking them in though i have hawks. the initial break-in period is vital to the pads life/effectiveness. hopefully the flush works

02-04-2004, 12:07 AM	#7 (permalink)
PseudoRealityX cone junkie Car: 1993 MR2 My TRGarage Gainesville, FL : 210	break in for my hawks on the protege was.... 5 30-0 stops, done gentley 3 stops 50-0, intermediate 2 stops 70-0 HARD let car sit at least 2 hours. have fun.

02-04-2004, 12:07 AM	#8 (permalink)
w0rd Moderator Car: RWD Civic My TRGarage : 43047513	Just went back out and did a bunch more hard stops. They seem good now. No smoke and no fading. I guess you have to practically catch these things on fire to break them in.

02-04-2004, 12:13 AM	#10 (permalink)
w0rd Moderator Car: RWD Civic My TRGarage : 43047513	Yeah, that was it. The rotors and pads are a different color now. I guess 4 weeks of hard street driving and a Sunriders autocross weren't enough to break them in.

02-04-2004, 12:45 AM	#11 (permalink)
sloaccord bad ass fonzie Car: 92 Accord My TRGarage : 71	when i broke in my pads, they smoked like a bastard and smelled like ass. i've read of some glowing rotors on break in, even. .. . but now, after two weeks, i've managed to warp brand new rotors. this sucks.

02-04-2004, 10:20 AM	#12 (permalink)
oilleak plain old member Car: 69 Datsun 2000 My TRGarage Riverview, FL : 625813	Haven't put my new ones on yet but (KPF's) but along with the get 'em real hot instructions, they also recomend cleaning the rotors (if they're not new or freshly turned) with MEK to make sure there's not any of the old pad material still adheared to the rotor. They said they're compound sometimes doesn't play well with other compounds that may still be on the rotors.