SO, i pulled off my adjustable RLCA's, and put my OEM units back in...

totally fucked up my alignment, well lifetime alingments at firestone FTW!!!

so i go, and get it up on the rack, alignment is done, then, the problem arisies...

the passanger side wheel/tire is sunk, they are +30 rims after all, and the driverside is out, like they're +12s.... both cambers is -1.9 R/L, toe and caster are the same as well...

literally, the driver side wheel/tire is like 1/2 out the fender, and the passanger side in IN the fender... WTF could cause this?

subframe?
bent chassis/frame?

i had a couple off roading times at Desoto, that were pretty rough, but i didn't think it would knock the shit over like 3/4" to the driver side...

should i replace the subframe?

go to a frame shop and have em put it on the rack?

WTFZORZ!!!!

 

scoliosis.

 

lol win^

 

Most people don't know that this is NOT uncommon. Most cars are not perfectly symmetrical. That does seem to be a little over the norm however Does the car align and track straight?

 

it was probably the guy at firestone being tired of aligning your car every two weeks and just knocking the head until it read what you wanted.

id do the same thing.

get a real alignment at a performance type place.

 

it's not the tech... it's the car...

the alignment is spot on, no within the -.5* firestone allows...

the rear camber is exactly -1.9 L/R toe is .10, hell we even adjusted a 1/4 difference in ride height...

post shit that helps, this isn't some random FS thread, i never bash help threads and i expect the same from people who may have an idea of whats going on...

the main pivot point for a rear alignment is the lower balljoint, all settings were set to that, and still, the RR is 1/2 out, and the L/R is 1/4 in... my only idea for this could be a shifted subframe or a bent chassis, it never was like this before till i ran my car at a few events, had a couple wheel drops, but from what i hear, it takes a hellova lot more than that to cause damage like this...

a question i asked the tech was if he pulled/adjusted the traction and toe rods in, and pulled/adjusted the RUCA in with them, would it be enough to pull the knuckle in enough to maintain camber/toe settings?

i noticed the castle nut on the passanger side was leaning in like "\" while the castlenut on the driver side was like "|"..... maybe tightening of the traction and toe rods would pull the assembly in? and then set camber?

 

my diagnostic crystal ball doesnt work over the internet, sorry man.



dude. trust me.
you need to take this thing to somewhere "not firestone"
it sounds like traction rods not adjusted properly would be a good start.
which goes with what i was saying. dipshit at firestone does not know what hes doing with aftermarket shit like traction rods. TAKE IT TO SOMEWHERE THAT KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING.

 

Pictures... Did you get under the car and look for anything out of the norm?

 

also, traction rods adjust toe and camber together. and really shouldnt be fucked with at all, and should just be set to stock length, the main benefit to them is the heim joints. (theres a reason i dont have adjustable traction rods)

but yeah. trust me. im right on this.

 

Yeah I think it has alot to do with your CAM bolts not being 0'd out like meant to be. Then adjust from the arms, and start with stock length arms. Bring that shit to S&R and let them adjust it.