need some suggestions, new to boost

[cutty2fast]

im gettin this 92 hatch for dirt cheap here soon and what i really wanna do with it is build one of those poor man gsr's for alot of boost. money isnt gonna be a problem seein as i plan on buyin all the stuff i need over a period of time, im just not sure what to get, i wanna use a b18 bottom and use a badass crank, heavy duty rods, low compression pistons, i just dont know what to get exactly, prolly gonna try and get the b16 gsr head, do duel springs with ty retainers and all that good stuff, but i dont know what kind of cams to get for boost, i want to be able to handle alot of boost, prolly around 10-15 daily drivin and possibly up to 25-30 for racin?

[gatewayjoe]

ttt

[1slow1g]

idk man alot of reputable companies make good parts. for rods a good but fairly priced peice is eagle. eagle makes good cranks also just expensive.
for pistons theres wiesco, je, cp, manley, ross. valve springs and retainers look into brian crower, ferrara, manley. idk what cams the honda guys use.

[cutty2fast]

thanks man i know im gonna need alot of help what i really wanna do is send a b18 to laskey racing theyll do all this

Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
OEM (TypeR) oil pump
Lower gasket set
Blueprint and assembly
Boxing, return shipping and insurance (lower 48 only)
Total $3450

and that setup is supposed to be able to handle like 50lbs of boost or something like that, i know this shit is crazy expensive (at least for me anyway) but im gonna take my time doin it, im also just not sure like if you have to get any special kind of cams, or could you just get normal stage 1 or 2 cams?

[1slow1g]

thanks man i know im gonna need alot of help what i really wanna do is send a b18 to laskey racing theyll do all this

Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
OEM (TypeR) oil pump
Lower gasket set
Blueprint and assembly
Boxing, return shipping and insurance (lower 48 only)
Total $3450

and that setup is supposed to be able to handle like 50lbs of boost or something like that, i know this shit is crazy expensive (at least for me anyway) but im gonna take my time doin it, im also just not sure like if you have to get any special kind of cams, or could you just get normal stage 1 or 2 cams?

cp makes some of the best off the shelf pistons money can buy.
when you get your motor all together no matter what dont skimp on fuel system and tuning or it will all be a waist. as for cams idk im sure you could get some normal off the shelf cams and they would do just fine. dont relly know anything about hondas but i think toda makes some relly nice cams.

[chrisarella]

I see you are getting it from Laskey Racing ;)
Laskey Racing Online Store (http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/bseries.htm)

Although I would tell them to use assembly lube like Royal Purple or equivalent and definitely NOT WD40 like they say they do. Also bore it out from 81mm to 84mm and sleeve it (uprates the displacement to a 2.0). I would also recommend upgrading to the Eagle rods and put a Moroso oil pan on that puppy if you ever plan on hitting the track.

Here are a couple of bolt-on turbo kits:
APEXi GReddy HKS Invidia Megan RSR Tanabe catback exhaust, AEM Injen Fujita cold air and short ram intake, Tein Eibach Neuspeed coilover and spring, Seibon VIS carbon fiber hood, ACT Exedy clutch kit and flywheel (http://raceinspired.com)
Turbo Kits for Acura, BMW, Ford, Honda, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Subaru, Toyota, Lexus & VW (http://turbo-kits.com)

And be careful with your cam choice. Do yourself a favor and get mild street cams since it's a daily driver.

[SiR-Drew]

skunk2 makes really good stuff for headwork, seeing how they started as honda oriented you should have no problem getting anything you need as far as valvetrain or cams go, they also make a set of "turbo cams" so it's pretuned for best results. a full skunk2 titanium valvetrain, cams, and the block work you stated earlier should hold all the boost your looking for (along with the fuel and supporting mods):bigthumb:

[cutty2fast]

if i went with that laskey racing setup and went with the eagle rods that would be a downgrade, its like 400 dollars less if you run eagles instead of pauter rods, thanx for all the links too, big help, i also just wish someone could give me a full list of everything i need in order to do this build, i know i need the turbo kit, bigger injectors, prolly a high-flow fuel rail, bigger fuel pump, some kind of chippable ecu (p28?) i finally got the car and its a 1990 not a 92, but i can still do a b18 swap in it

[chrisarella]

Believe me, the eagle rods are not really a down grade for what you're looking to do. Unless you're building a 9 second track car the eagle rods are good enough.

[dscivicdx]

I see you are getting it from Laskey Racing ;)


Although I would tell them to use assembly lube like Royal Purple or equivalent and definitely NOT WD40 like they say they do.



trust me when i say that they know how to put a motor together.

[chrisarella]

Ok, so there isn't a better way to do things than their way? :roll:

I don't doubt that they know how to build a motor but WD40 is a getto method of coating internals to prevent corrosion. While WD40 is a great penetrating lube and works decent for freeing rusty parts while providing a temporary coating it SUCKS as a metal-on-metal lubricant for anything more than a single contact. I wouldn't use the stuff on a bicycle chain and I definitely wouldn't use it on a motor I just dropped over 3 grand on. Now that being said, I know there will eventually be real motor oil added to the motor which will handle the lubricating duties just fine, but until it is primed and the oil actually reaches all of the internal parts everything is VERY susceptible to premature wear when you first crank a motor over.

And in case you're wondering what my experience is to question using WD40 to build a motor, I was a certified tech for a few years (before I got sick of it), have built dozens of race motors, and have been working on performance cars for over 20 years. In my experience shops don't always do things the BEST way and will sometime do what is acceptable. There are good ways of doing things and better ways of doing things and I am merely making suggestions here.

Take what you like and leave the rest. ;)

[dscivicdx]

edit: do you think they are using it as an assembly lube or just as temporary rust protection?

[chrisarella]

edit: do you think they are using it as an assembly lube or just as temporary rust protection?
I thought they were using it as an assembly lube but after re-reading it I see I may be wrong about it.
We then wash your block with soap and water, blow dry it and coat it with wd40.

Who knows though. Either way, it wouldn't hurt to ask them about it.

[dscivicdx]

yeah, they just use it as a temp. rust protectant. im not sure what assembly lube they use, but im sure its r.p. or another high quality lube.
i wasnt doubting your knowledge. you seem like you know what your talking about. nice wagon, btw.

[chrisarella]

No problem. I'm a crazyazz NYer an sometimes rush into things. Good looking out. And thanks for the compliment. ;)

[cutty2fast]

double time on the wagonnn.....yeah im pretty sure the eagles are gonna be more than enough for the power im looking for, as far as the lube goes idk about all that lol when i put together my cuzins h22a4 i used some engine building lube shit i got at the autozone, i know you can use oil and some people like to use that really thick oil additive, but i figured it outta be good enough, motor hasnt blown yet, but its only been hot a couple of times lol yall can check out my build thread if ya want

[cutty2fast]

http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/members-rides/466272-h22a4-1991-accord-swap-build-write-up.html

[chrisarella]

http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/members-rides/466272-h22a4-1991-accord-swap-build-write-up.html
Nice build so far.