Sweet! Another lens thread!

[Hoosier Daddy]

Just wanted to know what would be the best bang for my buck. I'm getting the new XSi when it finally ships out, and it comes with the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens. I want another lens to mess around with and just use it for everyday shots, nothing specific. Maybe a wide angle lens? Like I said, just something different... any suggestions? It can't be something crazy that costs like $5k though lol.

http://www.adorama.com/images/Product/ICADRXSIBK.JPG

[btuner]

zoom lenses are always good:dunno: or a prime. how much you looking to spend?

[96whiteknight]

Be a part of the club and pick up a 50mm. :P

[btuner]

2044B002 Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS Image Stabilizer Telephoto Zoom Lens (http://www.adorama.com/CA55250AFS.html?searchinfo=55-250&item_no=2)

or

2514A002 Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Standard AutoFocus Lens - USA (http://www.adorama.com/CA5018AFU.html?searchinfo=canon%2050mm&item_no=6)

[Hoosier Daddy]

I would say no more than $500 on a lens or lenses in general. I have no idea what I am talking about when it comes to lenses really lol. I like the look of a wide angle lens so I was thinking of getting one of those.

EDIT: Also, I do take alot of night photos so I would be looking into another lens that has good clarity and sharpness @ night.

[SaturnTypeR]

Be a part of the club and pick up a 50mm. :P

hahahaha i am joining that club in the next week or so.:crack:


But look in to Sigma lenses. They wont break the bank and still nice glass for the $$:crack:

[CEMAYHALL]

Quick Tip:

Anything after 150mm, its almost crucial to have an IS lens! <~ Or you could always bring your Tripod everywhere ;)!

[SaturnTypeR]

Quick Tip:

Anything after 150mm, its almost crucial to have an IS lens! <~ Or you could always bring your Tripod everywhere ;)!

Why is that?:crack: I shoot with my 70-300 all the time with out a tripod.

[Hoosier Daddy]

I am getting a tripod so thats no problem. So far I have my order done, just need to submit it. I have the Camera with lens, a set of filters, Memory card, tripod, case and a extra battery.

On a side note, are battery grips a extra battery basically? Or are they just for holding the camera more steady? I think I remember seeing someone say they are also a battery.

[btuner]

both^ extra batteries and more grip

[Hoosier Daddy]

both^ extra batteries and more grip

So a battery grip is an extra battery and grip in one? I can't find one on Adorama? lol

[btuner]

3052B001 Canon BG-E5 Battery Grip for EOS Rebel XSi Digital Camera (http://www.adorama.com/ICABGE5.html?searchinfo=xsi%20grip&item_no=1)

[budakinns]

EF 50mm f1.8 is a must get. I just got mines this week and still havent messed around too much with it yet. If you are looking for a good lens that can handle every day situations try this one Sigma | Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 DL | 790101 (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/186661-REG/Sigma_790101_Zoom_Wide_Angle_Telephoto_28_300mm.ht ml)

[CEMAYHALL]

Why is that?:crack: I shoot with my 70-300 all the time with out a tripod.


Once youre past 150mm, everything is a lot more "sensitive" to movement! <~ Unless youre using a very fast shutter speed!

Yes, you may be happy with the outcome of the picture but I guarantee you would be much happier with the outcome of a picture that was taken with an IS Lens! <~ Why would they sell them if they didnt make a difference :crack:

[CChimpanze]

Does Halfligger know about this :squint:

[.:Chris:.]

Why would they sell them if they didnt make a difference

Same reason they sell UV filters for digital cameras.


Sorry, I couldn't resist. I know you're a fan of the UV filter. :lol:

[.:Chris:.]

Also, I do take alot of night photos so I would be looking into another lens that has good clarity and sharpness @ night.

Sharpness that comes out at night, eh? Is that listed in the lens specs? Ive never seen it before... :lol:


On a more serious note, wide angle is fun but telephoto is necessary. You'll miss being able to zoom when you move from P&S to SLR.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Sharpness that comes out at night, eh? Is that listed in the lens specs? Ive never seen it before... :lol:


On a more serious note, wide angle is fun but telephoto is necessary. You'll miss being able to zoom when you move from P&S to SLR.

I was ready reviews on a few lenses and people wrote that some lenses were more sharp and crisp at night? Told you I have no idea when it comes to lenses lol. And yeah, I love the 12x zoom on my S3... I would probably go bizerck without it. Maybe I can find a good telephoto and wide angle that add up to no more than 500

[.:Chris:.]

You won't find two good lenses for $500. You may find two lenses, but they won't be good and neither of them will be an ultra-wide.

There are a few standard digital ultra wides:
Sigma 10-20mm F/4-5.6
Tokina 12-24mm F/4
Tamron 11-18mm F/4.5-5.6
Canon 10-22 F/3.5-4.5

They will all run you about $500 except for the Canon which is about $800. Sigma has a 12-24 too, but it's an older lens and it's pretty big/heavy from what I've heard, it was from the film days.

As for telephoto lenses, you'll have to wait for someone from the Canon camp to chime in.

[CEMAYHALL]

Same reason they sell UV filters for digital cameras.
Sorry, I couldn't resist. I know you're a fan of the UV filter. :lol:

I dont understand? :tard:

Are you trying to say that Image Stabilizers dont work?

[Mars_302]

it all depends on how much you wanna spend per lens. Pretty much all of the wide angles are going to be $400-550. To be honest you probably end up getting 1 over eveything just to have it all covered, you just need to decide what you want now.

[Hater]

Ive been wanting to try out the IS series for awhile, im pretty happy with the EFS 18-55 they give you but with a zoom lens it would be pretty sweet.

[.:Chris:.]

I dont understand? :tard:

Are you trying to say that Image Stabilizers dont work?

No, I was fwy because I know how you love your UV filters.

[CEMAYHALL]

No, I was fwy because I know how you love your UV filters.
Dont hate on me b/c my pictures dont have glare on them :p

[Hoosier Daddy]

If I do decide to get filters, I was going to get these...

58DPSLRKIT Tiffen 58mm Digital Pro SLR Filter Kit, With Digital Ultra Clear, Color Grad ND.6, Pro-Mist 2 Filters, Micro Fiber Cleaning Cloth & Filter Case (http://www.adorama.com/TF58DPK.html)

[SaturnTypeR]

I dont understand? :tard:

Are you trying to say that Image Stabilizers dont work?

Is that why they have 2 stages on some lenses:lol: :crack:

[.:Chris:.]

Don't waste your time and money on those. Tiffen makes decent filters, but you won't use those ones. I've never even heard of "Digital Ultra Clear" before, but putting any glass infront of your lens will decrease contrast (it's a matter of physics, ever wonder how you know when you're looking through glass and when you're not?).

So basically, if you're going to put something infront of your expensive high-quality glass, it better be worth it. IMO that means it should be a) a circular polarizer b) a neutral density filter (similar to what you posted, ill explain) or c) a small selection of other filters.

Circular Polarizer (B+W is the best brand to get IMO, but they're $$) - creates an effect that cannot be duplicated in the camera. If used properly it will give dark blue skies, increase sturation (in some cases) and reduce reflections (reduce, not eliminate. Doesn't work for reflections off of bare metal).

Neutral Density - Again, buy a decent setup but don't buy round ones. Round filters leave you with no way to adjust your horizon line, the horizon must be were the filter goes from dark to light otherwise it will look odd. You want a square set of graduated neutral density (.3, .6 and 9 is what I have, I think) filters and a filter-holder with rings that match your lenses. I use Cokin P filters (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?shs=cokin&ci=0&sb=ps&pn=1&sq=desc&InitialSearch=yes&O=product.jsp&A=search&Q=*&bhs=t). They're bottom of the line, but the next step up starts to get expensive quickly. Again, this will increase dynamic range which can't be reproduced easily in post. (You can blend exposures, but it takes a lot of time and effort)

IMO (CEMAYHALL, don't read this) don't waste your time on UV filters. They're dinosaurs from the film-era and they have no place on digital cameras. This is for another time and place, however. There's a great debate over this one, everyone has an opinion.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Lol, like I said I have no idea when it comes to accessories for these cameras. I can adjust the settings for a good photo, but when it comes to lenses, flashes, etc... I dont know SHEEET.

I'm thinking I will just get the camera, telephoto lens under or around $500, tripod, and battery grip. Start small lol.

[.:Chris:.]

I realize that you don't know what you're doing, that's why I'm trying to help.

Why are you buying the grip? It sounds like you just need to sit down and think about what you're buying. Don't just throw money at this for the sake of spending it. A battery grip isn't going to enable you to get pictures that you couldn't get before, which is why it's usually later in the upgrade-path.

Your money would be better spent on something that will enable you to get pictures you couldn't otherwise get - ie a Circular Polarizer, a lens (or at least part of a lens) or otherwise.

[Hoosier Daddy]

I realize that you don't know what you're doing, that's why I'm trying to help.

Why are you buying the grip? It sounds like you just need to sit down and think about what you're buying. Don't just throw money at this for the sake of spending it. A battery grip isn't going to enable you to get pictures that you couldn't get before, which is why it's usually later in the upgrade-path.

Your money would be better spent on something that will enable you to get pictures you couldn't otherwise get - ie a Circular Polarizer, a lens (or at least part of a lens) or otherwise.

I want it for the extra battery life mostly.

[CEMAYHALL]

Is that why they have 2 stages on some lenses:lol: :crack:
Stop being a dork! :nerd: You and I both know IS > Non IS! /Conversation.


IMO (CEMAYHALL, don't read this) don't waste your time on UV filters. They're dinosaurs from the film-era and they have no place on digital cameras. This is for another time and place, however. There's a great debate over this one, everyone has an opinion.
Actually the "UV Filters" I have on all 3 of my Lenses act as "lens protectors!" <~ Its cheaper to replace a filter rather then an IS lens!

28-135 IS Lens = $500-$600
70-200 IS Lens = $1200
70-300 IS Lens = $700

Hoya UV Filters = $50-$60 (Discount FTW!)

[.:Chris:.]

:lol:

We can get into this at another time, in another place. :grin:

[CEMAYHALL]

Filters mess up the "expensive glass on the lens" :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah:

To the O.P. ~> Get a Nice Mid-Range lens and have fun with it!

[.:Chris:.]

Filters mess up the "expensive glass on the lens" :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah:

You're right, you win. :)

[Mars_302]

You're right, you win. :)

Well id sure to like to know you mess up expensive lenses? I know they add another layer of glass which can lead to added reflections, but if you buy a nice multi-coated quality lens its not much of a deal.

[.:Chris:.]

Ok, apparently another time and another place is here and now. :lol:

Well id sure to like to know you mess up expensive lenses?

That's CEMYHALL's quote, he was putting words into my mouth. I'll let him explain what he means, as he's got quotations around some of the words but he seems to be the only one who's said them. :dunno:

Filters mess up the "expensive glass on the lens" :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah:




I know they add another layer of glass which can lead to added reflections, but if you buy a nice multi-coated quality lens its not much of a deal.

Any filter can lead to ghosting/reflections, but more imporantly to me - they reduce contrast. I despise adding contrast in post because it's so easy to over-do, so I avoid it whenever I can. As you said - a quality multi-coated filter will have a lessened effect, but there's still going to be an impact. As I said in my previous post: if you're going to put a filter infront of an expensive piece of glass, you better make sure it's worth the trade-off.

Does that make sense?

[CEMAYHALL]

Don't waste your time and money on those. Tiffen makes decent filters, but you won't use those ones. I've never even heard of "Digital Ultra Clear" before, but putting any glass infront of your lens will decrease contrast.

So basically, if you're going to put something infront of your expensive high-quality glass, it better be worth it.

:oops: I read what you wrote on the 2nd page ALL WRONG!!! Sorry, I have a habit of skimming through paragraphs of information and only pulling certain information out <~ Not ALL!!! :oops::lol: <~ Thats what College does to you!

So, what "I" read/ interpreted from your post was:

~ Dont waste your time and money on those.
~ Put something infront of your expensive high quality glass.

Now, Put 2-and-2 together = Dont use filters infront of your high quality glass!!! :lol:

I suck but I'm done with college so Reading > ME!

[Mars_302]

Ok, apparently another time and another place is here and now. :lol:



That's CEMYHALL's quote, he was putting words into my mouth. I'll let him explain what he means, as he's got quotations around some of the words but he seems to be the only one who's said them. :dunno:








Any filter can lead to ghosting/reflections, but more imporantly to me - they reduce contrast. I despise adding contrast in post because it's so easy to over-do, so I avoid it whenever I can. As you said - a quality multi-coated filter will have a lessened effect, but there's still going to be an impact. As I said in my previous post: if you're going to put a filter infront of an expensive piece of glass, you better make sure it's worth the trade-off.

Does that make sense?


In all my readings over the years ive never read that a piece of clear class adds contrast. And yes to me its a trade off that I like. I have a $110 Hoya Pro-1 digital filter. Its not a UV or a skylight, just clear multi-coated glass that covers my $900 simga telephoto glass. I now have to replace this filter sometime after 3 years of use cause apparently at some time event lately, i think the rally-x it got blasted hard with sand and now has little pits in it that arent coming out.

[.:Chris:.]

In all my readings over the years ive never read that a piece of clear class adds contrast. And yes to me its a trade off that I like. I have a $110 Hoya Pro-1 digital filter. Its not a UV or a skylight, just clear multi-coated glass that covers my $900 simga telephoto glass. I now have to replace this filter sometime after 3 years of use cause apparently at some time event lately, i think the rally-x it got blasted hard with sand and now has little pits in it that arent coming out.

Haven't had time to respond to this yet, but I will certainly do it tonight or tomorrow.

[CEMAYHALL]

^ Reply b/c I would like to know as-well!

[YBlegal]

^ +1, i dont know enough about it to know why it would mess up anything. so why is bad to put a $30-$100 peice of glass on to protect my $_00 lens? is this just a personal prefrence type of subject, or is there really a visible difference thats not worth the "peace of mind" knowing the lens is protected?

[.:Chris:.]

In all my readings over the years ive never read that a piece of clear class adds contrast. And yes to me its a trade off that I like. I have a $110 Hoya Pro-1 digital filter. Its not a UV or a skylight, just clear multi-coated glass that covers my $900 simga telephoto glass. I now have to replace this filter sometime after 3 years of use cause apparently at some time event lately, i think the rally-x it got blasted hard with sand and now has little pits in it that arent coming out.

Ok, here's the article:
The Filter Flare Factor (http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/sm-feb-05.shtml)

The whole article is worth reading, but here's one of the interesting points:
Modern lenses also pass very little UV. Either the glass, coatings, or even the cement used for cemented elements filter it. The so-called "hot mirror" filters are sharp-cutting UV blockers, but ordinary UV filters don't commonly help good lenses much, if at all. There are a few exceptions. When you are shooting in actively hazardous environmental conditions, such as flying salty sea-spray or blowing sand, snow, or volcanic ash, it might be smart to use a protective filter that's easy to wipe clean. When you're in an an environment rich in ultraviolet, like at the top of a Swiss Alp, take a hot mirror filter along. Obviously, if you want to polarize the light, add a color, or cut the amount of light reaching the lens by a measured amount, don't hesitate to use the appropriate filter.