Am I foregetting something here???

[italiancorolla]

hey guys, I need to make sure I am not foregetting anything before install next week. I just purchased a 200A iraggi alternator, so I know I need to upgrade my wiring. I will be running (2) yellow tops in the trunk because I personally dont like caps. Now with me relocating my battery in the trunk, I needed major wires for the power. I Purchased Stinger 0-gauge wire to run to the trunk and also for the grounds. I am going to be running a 200A fuse to the aux batteries that my sound system will be hooked up too, and a 100A to the main battery that will be supplying powe to my stock car components. Now, I have all the blocks and everything but am I foregetting something small here? Or maybe someone has done this an dran into a small problem that they could share.

I am also running remote terminals in case I ever needed to be jumped in the engine bay.

I am in a 2004 Corolla S, 13w7 subwoofer powered with a 1000/1, jl audio mids and highs powered by 300/4 Jl amp as well.

ALSO anyone know where I can get this Iraggi alternator tested before I install it? Thanks.

[the727kid]

Any autoparts store can test it.....but Dom is a good guy I wouldn't worry bout his alts at all.

[Notladstyle]

a 1000/1 will never need 200 amps off one sub. You should be fine.

[italiancorolla]

a 1000/1 will never need 200 amps off one sub. You should be fine.

well I know for a fact the my stock 85A couldnt take the heat of the 13w7 hitting. Always dimmed lights and my voltage staying at around 12 on a bass hit. I am not worried, I basically just wanted to get it tested and a sheet to say how many amps it is trully producing. I didnt think auto stores could test the amperage, only volts?

[Notladstyle]

Yes They can test amperage.

As for the 85amp thing, I think you are assuming your alternator always produces out its rated output - which is totally untrue. A 85 amp alternator probably only produces 40 amps at idle under best conditions and doesnt approach 85 amps until 2700-4000rpm. A similar slope applies to your 200 amp replacement.

[the727kid]

A similar slope applies to your 200 amp replacement.

Not true... If he bought the higher grade 200amp alt from Dom it will idle at 180 I believe.

[italiancorolla]

Yes They can test amperage.

As for the 85amp thing, I think you are assuming your alternator always produces out its rated output - which is totally untrue. A 85 amp alternator probably only produces 40 amps at idle under best conditions and doesnt approach 85 amps until 2700-4000rpm. A similar slope applies to your 200 amp replacement.

hehe, I was a good boy for chirstmas. I upgraded like he said and purchased the 200A, 115A at IDLE!!!!!!

[Notladstyle]

then I doubt you will have any issues with it, I would imagine a 1000/1 draws 120-150 at full tilt so straight music should settle you at 100 amps or so.

if we could get a MEET set up, would be nice to show off...

[TJElite]

Lights will most likely still dim, though. Battery still has an internal resistance, and the alternator doesn't give up power instantly, so there will be a voltage drop. Lights are purely resistive, and therefore very sensative to voltage drop.

55w low beam, is about 3.4ohm. So, at 13.8v, it flows aobut 4 amps of current, which gives you about 55w. Cut that voltage to 12v, and it only flows 3.5 amps, which is 42w, or a 24% reduction. Drop to 11.5, and you go down to 38 watts.

The only way to prevent light dimming completely is to run a completely seperate electrical system (alternator and battery) for the audio.

All that being said, upgrades are a good idea, and 200 amps will be more than a couple of 1000/1's ever need. But don't base power needs on solely on lights dimming.

I'm running a Sundown 3000 watt amp on a stock Escalade alt (about 140 max) and two batteries. My lights dim on big hits, but nothing audibly suffers.

As for a meet...who knows, but might want to keep your December saturday's open...

Toby

[the727kid]

Could always buy HIDs... that will prevent dim :)

[88RedRex]

i have a 13 W7 and a 1000/1 and i have to yellow top batteries with a stock Volkswagon alternator and my lights never dimmed, i also just recently purchased H.I.D.'s, and they are cool, lol they dont dim either

[Bowtie]

h.i.d's use less energy than standard bulbs right? i think thats right

[88RedRex]

yes sir^^^

[TJElite]

h.i.d's use less energy than standard bulbs right? i think thats right


And they work entirely different from regular bulbs. Instead of a filament, they use and arc, like a welder. Not only are they more efficient, they are much less voltage dependent, once the arc is struck.

In the for what its worth department, HID's use more energy than regular bulbs when they start up, but then use much less energy.

Toby

[P057]

And they work entirely different from regular bulbs. Instead of a filament, they use and arc, like a welder. Not only are they more efficient, they are much less voltage dependent, once the arc is struck.

In the for what its worth department, HID's use more energy than regular bulbs when they start up, but then use much less energy.

Toby

Yep, my stock bulbs are 35 watt, whereas most halogens are up in the 50's and 60's.

HID's in my opinion are extremely efficient, often not requiring you to change the bulbs out frequently if much ever at all, produce substantially more light, and use less power when left on.

The only thing that really actually "hurts" the bulb is the turning on part of it. Otherwise if they stayed on pretty much forever, they would last for a verrrrry long time.

[Notladstyle]

+1 HIDs use about half the amperage of a regular bulb once they are started.

[italiancorolla]

Lights will most likely still dim, though. Battery still has an internal resistance, and the alternator doesn't give up power instantly, so there will be a voltage drop. Lights are purely resistive, and therefore very sensative to voltage drop.

55w low beam, is about 3.4ohm. So, at 13.8v, it flows aobut 4 amps of current, which gives you about 55w. Cut that voltage to 12v, and it only flows 3.5 amps, which is 42w, or a 24% reduction. Drop to 11.5, and you go down to 38 watts.

The only way to prevent light dimming completely is to run a completely seperate electrical system (alternator and battery) for the audio.

All that being said, upgrades are a good idea, and 200 amps will be more than a couple of 1000/1's ever need. But don't base power needs on solely on lights dimming.

I'm running a Sundown 3000 watt amp on a stock Escalade alt (about 140 max) and two batteries. My lights dim on big hits, but nothing audibly suffers.

As for a meet...who knows, but might want to keep your December saturday's open...

Toby


i do plan on running (2) seperate circuits, which is whY i bought a 210A isolater. I have researched this for the past months but wanted to make sure I was foregetting something simple (seems like it always happens)

[TJElite]

The isolator doesn't make two completely seperate circuits, since there is still only one alternator.

Why do you want the isolator? For most installs, they are unneccessary, and actually cause about a .7v drop, due to the diode. So, your amps will see almost a full volt less than they have to.

The best reason to use an isolator is if you intend to play the system with the car off, and want to be able to start your car. In any event, I've had good luck with only using 'half' of the isolator. On a typical 3 post isolator, you put a battery to the left post, the other battery to the right, and the alternator to the center. What I do is hook the front battery (vehicle starting) to one of the outer posts, and then hook both the alternator and rear (system) batteries to the center post. This way, the rear batteries can never drain the front, you stop the voltage see saw that occurs in parallel batteries, and you avoid the .7v drop to the batteries that run your system.

Toby

[italiancorolla]

The best reason to use an isolator is if you intend to play the system with the car off, and want to be able to start your car. In any event, I've had good luck with only using 'half' of the isolator. On a typical 3 post isolator, you put a battery to the left post, the other battery to the right, and the alternator to the center. What I do is hook the front battery (vehicle starting) to one of the outer posts, and then hook both the alternator and rear (system) batteries to the center post. This way, the rear batteries can never drain the front, you stop the voltage see saw that occurs in parallel batteries, and you avoid the .7v drop to the batteries that run your system.

Toby

thats exactly why I did it, I dont want to be at NOPI nationals and have a dead battery or at a meet and find out I have a dead battery, that would suck!!!!