I wouldnt want to bring on the wrath of Denise....

At any rate Im thinking of modifying an Eclipse Turbo or an EagleTalon Tsi. What is the best year to modify and what will it cost me to put it in the 12s while still keeping it a dependable daily driver? AWD? I dont know...probably not.



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Im not an asshole in real life....I just play one on TampaRacing.com

 

This would probably be best answered by our in house mitsu group.

 

you know....

 

Get a HRC (Hahn Racecraft) turbo kit at:
www.turbosystem.com

It allows you to bolt on the turbo while still remain in virtually stock form and dependability. Ive heard some good shit about this kit but it is only for the 2G (2nd gneration eclipse).
Check the site out they even claim that you can go faster than a GS-T.

RS99

Turbo...the replacement for displacement!!

[This message has been edited by RS99 (edited 10-17-2000).]

[This message has been edited by RS99 (edited 10-17-2000).]

[This message has been edited by RS99 (edited 10-17-2000).]

 

His name is John not Jon.

 

John checking in here

IMHO (and I could be wrong here) if your choice is AWD I would pick up a 92+. They have the stronger rear ends which you dont really want to replace do you? I *think* they also have the fixed headlights as opposed to the flip ups.

Also IMHO if you are getting a FWD Id pick any of the 1st Gens. I dont think it really matters much on the FWDs.

Getting an AWD into the 12s is not too terribly difficult but getting a FWD is. Probably best to ask Joe about this entire subject. HTH

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-JG-
Also known as John from Spec R
Honda S2000
1988 CRX
My stoopid webpage

Spec R Tuning - Tampas premier dyno center and import performance shop
813-910-7235

 

This question seems to come up a lot so I might as well post again on it. The first post got killed in the server move I guess... Lets target AWD cars since you want 12s and a daily driver:

90-92.5 -- Better big rod engines. They engine is good for low 11s without modification (but please remove the balance shafts). Rearends are weaker (3-bolt) but thats not a concern until mid-to-low 12s for most people.

92.5-94 -- The rods are a bit weaker but the rearends are bullet proof (well as far as anyone has been able to find out...9.0s on slicks). If you are planning on swapping out the rods/pistons for aftermarket units these are the years to look for. The 94 model also got an upgraded transmission. The bottom end is probably good for mid-to-low 12s before you would need to get nervous.

Headlights...
Pop-ups - 90-91
Fixed - 92-94

Strangely the 90-91 models are faster if you check the top 10 quickest DSMs. Then again the quickest DSM is a 92-94 model.

Obviously you would want a 92.5 w/ a big rod engine (6 bolt flywheel) and the 4-bolt rearend to get the best of both worlds but they were made over (something like) a 2 month period...so good luck finding one. Best bet get a 93-94 model and then drop aftermarket rods/pistons in.

12s can be had for less than $3k if done right...and they are reliable daily drivers down into the 10s (well on race gas) as long as you tune properly (and not too near the lean edge). There are three 10 second daily driven DSMs (and I mean full interior A/C etc...) that I know of (and maybe more) if that gives you an idea of the street/strip potential.


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John
90 Talon TSi AWD (2KW K4U)
91 Galant VR-4 (1574/2000)
http://tampabay.dsm.org

 

ACME shouldnt be fooling with 12 seconds cars...he cant hardly handle the 15 second car he has now

 

 

Or just let John C. the Invader handle it.... nice job John.

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Joe
94TSiAWD
http://www.cr-racing.com/talonpage.htm
13.001 @ 106.55