flat olive drab

[fishyskawa]

car is flat black now. want to paint the whole thing flat olive drab. this doesnt seem like something that i need to get a shop to do. i was wondering what kind of stuff i need to do this project myself. sorry for nub question, help is appreciated.

[hateshino]

sanding tools, primer, paint, lots of time, tape...and lots of time lol. im doing mine too, but not the same color. gdluck man

[fishyskawa]

sorry im such a nub but i dont really know the procedures of this. do i just use the rattle can? thanks again for the help.

[BAMF]

If you're gonna use a rattlecan you have two options. And only two.

Kryon (the best shit out there), preferably the Rust Tough Enamel lines

or

Rustoleum.

Thats it. I painted parts of my motorccle with Krylon and it holds up like factory fucking paint. Sanded right down to bare metal and sprayed on the Krylon. You don't need to sand to bare metal, but you DO need to sand and then whipe it clean. Good prep work and as clean as you can get it is key.

[HullBreach]

It's expensive, but you might be able to bag some of the mil-spec paint used by the Marines/Army/etc. if you poke around on ebay or hit some army navy stores. That stuff is damn near industructable.

[fishyskawa]

okay i found a friend with a gun and shit so im going to do it legit. just have some questions about how painting it will work since im not rattling it. I still want to do flat olive so i dont know how it works. regular car paint will be protective enough? dont want a gloss finish. im really nub when it comes to this shit so thanks for the help. Also any recomendations for paint?

[fishyskawa]

up

[importguy1208]

You are going to run into two problems with what you want to do.

FIRST: The rattle can primer is lacquer based with no hardener. What this means is that as soon as you spray urethane on top of the lacquer, the reducer in the urethane will cause the lacquer to soften, shrink, and lift. The only real solution is either to primer the whole car and then block it, or sand all the rattle can off of the car.

SECOND: The base color coat usually doesn't have a hardener in it. It also has NO UV protection. What this means is that the base coat will be soft enough to casually rub off if someone were to simply lean against the car. The clear coat is what hardens and protects the base. The clear is also what provides the UV protection to keep the paint from fading. Without the clear the color will start to fade almost immediately.

As far as I know there are two options for a flat look. One is to use a flattening agent in the clear. What this does is basically keep the clear from shining while still allowing it to protect the basecoat. The other option is to look into a product made by Dupont under the Hot Hues brand called Hot Rod that is a single stage meaning it uses a hardener and requires NO clear top coat.

If I can help any more just let me know.

[fishyskawa]

thanks a lot. really helpful. guess im going to go gloss. but when it comes to sanding... am i trying to take the paint all off or just make it rigid to help stick. also can i use a sander or do it by hand?

[importguy1208]

You want to take off as much of the rattle can as you can. You will be fine with a sander as long as you keep it flat and don't destroy any body lines.

Realistically 320 grit should be fine but you are going to clog a lot of paper since the rattle can doesn't get really hard.

Once you 320 the primer off you can either use a selaer or go straight to your base. I would recommend a sealer first as it will help to seal any of the primer you couldn't remove and keep the base from wrinkling.

[xnissan240x]

It's expensive, but you might be able to bag some of the mil-spec paint used by the Marines/Army/etc. if you poke around on ebay or hit some army navy stores. That stuff is damn near industructable.

the army navy surplus store near bb downs and bearrs ave has some

[NakMuaySpirit]

let us know how it goes because im planning on spraying my EG hatch flat olive drab as well

[KAILUAZ]

This is what I'm going to use, doing the same thing. Its not "cheap" but its the real deal. You might get away with the rattle cans they sell, but I'm going with a paint shop to spray mine.
Remember there are a two main shades of OD, the present stuff (34094) and the WWII olive drab (34088).

Good luck!!
MILSPRAY - Products - Military Vehicle Restoration Paint (http://www.milspray.com/products/mv-restoration-paint.html)
http://www.milspray.com/products/pdfs/Aerosol_Fed_Std595B.pdf

[KAILUAZ]

Ohhh and here is some hotrod inspiration for you!
Bomber/Olive Drab - THE H.A.M.B. (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209775&showall=1)

[Mars_302]

http://www.eccentric-photography.com/gallery/albums/uploads/misc/mycar/newcar/normal_IMG_5012.JPG

if you goto advance and buy the self etching primer, thats what the color is

[fishyskawa]

^ that is the color im looking for. whats the exact info on that paint? might be a while on the real paint job. having a hard time finding someone with a garage or something to do it in.

[KAILUAZ]

If you use primer or dirt cheap stuff you'll be sorry!
That color and this is the newer OD color #34094.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=355803&d=1190317491

[NakMuaySpirit]

very nice truck!

[IdriveAbucket]

I rattle can'd my project truck with that olive and white, to dress it up before a car show.I priced ppg paint in that green,white,clearcoat,catlyst and flatning agent for $350.Thats with some to spare for misc. interior pieces.Im looking for the flat/satin look also but durabilty of a clearcoat also.Hopefully the flatning agent for the clear will do the trick.
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f100/2drbucket/100_0873.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f100/2drbucket/croped-2.jpghttp://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f100/2drbucket/100_0874.jpg

[KAILUAZ]

I rattle can'd my project truck with that olive and white, to dress it up before a car show.I priced ppg paint in that green,white,clearcoat,catlyst and flatning agent for $350.Thats with some to spare for misc. interior pieces.Im looking for the flat/satin look also but durabilty of a clearcoat also.Hopefully the flatning agent for the clear will do the trick.



What brand rattle paint did you use? Also where did you get it? Looks pretty good!
Rep'd

[D00MSB08]

everyone pretty much sum'd it for you. but whatever is getting painted must be scuffed. prep is key. ifs its not sanded correctly then the paint will chip and peel. 320 should be good, on a block and finger sanding those hard to get places. with a good prep u should be good. but as far rattle can job. is prepped right u could be fine with rustoleum depending on your budget thats your call. good luck

[IdriveAbucket]

What brand rattle paint did you use? Also where did you get it? Looks pretty good!
Rep'd
Its the self-etching primer from advanced auto I believe duplicolor makes it.For a quick dress up its cool but it fades quick if left unsealed.