ported srt-4 turbo

[bmwdrifter]

what kind of power gains should i expect out of getting my turbo ported and buying a better flowing intake. i know i hae to get a new fuel map and injectors (maybe i have a 2005 so they come with the stage 1 injectors) and i know about all the parts i should add like wastegate,and etc. but with a new intake and ported turbo with a hks bov what should i expect?

[Figs]

It sort of hard to tell what gains you would get each car is different. But I have to ask why would you go with a ported turbo at this time? People have ran their stock air intake systems on ported turbo's. There's only a little gain of having a aftermarket intake but not much.

For more information go to SRTforums.com (http://www.srtforums.com) there's people there with ported turbo's and so fourth. Everyone has different setups hence why its hard to give you any numbers. The only way you can tell for yourself is by dynoing your car as it sits right now and dynoing it after a ported turbo and intake system.

I don't quite understand what you mean by "new fuel map".

[bmwdrifter]

by new fuel map i mean i intend on buying the portfuel mapper by hahns racing,not intending on it being a certain part on every car, just the name of a certain type of part by hahns. idk i just really wanted to see what the stock turbo was capable of. i have in fact checke dout srtforums and it was helpful. i was just viewing some other opinions. also what psi do you think i could feed enough fuel to my engine safely with just the stock 05 (stage 1) injectors.

[Figs]

Well if you have a Stage 0 PCM I wouldn't recommend going past 15psi, you start going past 15psi and you'll throw overboost codes and can hurt the performance of the car. I got tired of that so I got Stage 1 and with my current mods I'm running rich as can be but I'm boosting at 17psi. I was told with my mods 17.5-18 would be the max. I also heard boosting past 20psi isn't effecient on the stock turbo.

Forget the portfueler there's other routes you can go with. There's routes you can take, you just need to decide what your power goals are and just see what mods people have that have reach those goals. Easiest way to go, you want to buy things once not twice.

[HAVOKSRT4]

by new fuel map i mean i intend on buying the portfuel mapper by hahns racing,not intending on it being a certain part on every car, just the name of a certain type of part by hahns. idk i just really wanted to see what the stock turbo was capable of. i have in fact checke dout srtforums and it was helpful. i was just viewing some other opinions. also what psi do you think i could feed enough fuel to my engine safely with just the stock 05 (stage 1) injectors.


Dude, you've got a lot of reading to do. Like white said....go to srtforums.com and begin your quest for some decent knowledge.

Example.... If you bought the portfueler from hahn, why not go with their turbo 16g or 20g while you were at it. You wouldn't need a over 1,000 dollar portfueler for your modified turbo. Good Luck bro in whatever you do.

[Figs]

Agree, the PORKfueler as its been called by Eclipse/Talon 420a owners is not necessary... actually none of the Hahn parts are necessary since SRT-4's have a good wide range of aftermarket parts available. But if you want to go with HRC (Hahn Racecraft) then go for it. There's just better cost efficient parts out there that will show fourth a lot better for less money then any of those, what I find expensive, HRC parts. Look at power but also look at value... also look at what people spend to get to where they are at. I've only seen a few SRT-4 owners go with a HRC turbo and by few, I mean few. There's other options, plenty of other options. You just need to set a power goal and start researching.

[bmwdrifter]

i do have a power goal of 350 fwhp. i have been looking at modernperformance parts and like what i see for prices and gain. i am lookin into the turbo xs bov kit. it comes with turbo xs xfl bov,adaptor kit, and a higher quality wastegate acutator,and a boost controller. i know these are the first things to put into my car to start the build up for now and the kit only cost 560 or something like that. how does that sound? is that a decent kit or should i look elsewhere. i have heard nothing but good things about modern performance and the parts in the kit.

[bmwdrifter]

the real goal for me is to get out of the high 13's and into the low 13 to high 12 sec range with as little money spent as possible. i know it takes money to do so but i like to find deals and i am just started to really get into my srt-4. i have had i for about a year now. what turbo do you guys suggest or think is a good setup for my goals.

[Figs]

How 2: 300whp Stock turbo...again - SRTforums.com (http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158821) ... 300whp Stock Turbo

Also you need to work on suspension and what not for traction. Do you have motor mount inserts or solid motor mounts? Do you have solid tranny mount or tranny inserts? If not you need either or... I went with the inserts. You don't want to run the car hard with stock mounts... I've heard stories. So get either or... the inserts which go into the stock mounts or solid mounts which replace the stock mounts. The inserts/solid mounts help with traction but for the most part loss of traction we all have to deal with... we are FWD.

BTW, you don't really need a boost controller. The AGP wastegate and PTP/Kinetic/SlowBoyRacing and a few others are adjustable. Meaning they have an adjustable wastegate arm in which you can raise/lower your boost and set your boost that way. So really no need for a boost controller.

Also stay away from kits unless they are beneficial. If you have an HKS bov already I don't see why you would get an TurboXS RFL bov. I understand bov's vary and the sound as well, etc. but its not needed at this time especially when you already have an aftermarket bov. So the kit you mentioned is a waste of money in my opinion.

[bmwdrifter]

Dude, you've got a lot of reading to do. Like white said....go to srtforums.com and begin your quest for some decent knowledge.

Example.... If you bought the portfueler from hahn, why not go with their turbo 16g or 20g while you were at it. You wouldn't need a over 1,000 dollar portfueler for your modified turbo. Good Luck bro in whatever you do.

i wouldnt be able to afford both the portfueler and the turbo kit. i can however afford the portfueler and a ported intake and turbo. but recent research has turned me away from hahns due to price vs hp/trq gains. i have seen the light and my wallet has seen the light of modernperformance.com and the slightly more expensive turboneonstore

[Figs]

You know I haven't bought a single part from modernperformance, I heard they are great but I just haven't seen the need to order from them.

You will notice most of the parts you need you can find in the For Sale forum on SRTforums for cheaper. This opened my eyes greatly thanks to Havok... because I was in your shoes buying everything new and um yeah I've gotten farther with the car buying parts that were hardly used for cheaper. Same performance as just buying them new. Don't get me wrong there are parts you will want to buy new. I've got plenty of parts I bought new, there was just some I didn't see the point paying the price of the new one over a used one that will do the samething.

[bmwdrifter]

Also stay away from kits unless they are beneficial. If you have an HKS bov already I don't see why you would get an TurboXS RFL bov. I understand bov's vary and the sound as well, etc. but its not needed at this time especially when you already have an aftermarket bov. So the kit you mentioned is a waste of money in my opinion.[/quote]

the hks bov has been sold way back. i went back to stock, but i know the guy who has it very well and he can sell it back to me,i just didnt put that on my garage thingy. the kit seems beneficial to me due to the fact that i would get the wga, bov/adapter kit, and the boost controller all in one kit for a price cheaper than i can get a bov/adapter and wga. i know the suspension needs upgrading,have done research on that and already have the money set aside to order parts. as far as this being a wga that can adjust the boost level i am not sure of,will search that ( i wouldnt think so since it comes with a controller in the kit).

[bmwdrifter]

You know I haven't bought a single part from modernperformance, I heard they are great but I just haven't seen the need to order from them.

You will notice most of the parts you need you can find in the For Sale forum on SRTforums for cheaper. This opened my eyes greatly thanks to Havok... because I was in your shoes buying everything new and um yeah I've gotten farther with the car buying parts that were hardly used for cheaper. Same performance as just buying them new. Don't get me wrong there are parts you will want to buy new. I've got plenty of parts I bought new, there was just some I didn't see the point paying the price of the new one over a used one that will do the samething.

i can see the benefits of doing so. i have been loooking around on ebay motors and found the prices to be much more pleasing. i can find a good wga for around 70 bucks and a bov kit for about 100. i will check out the classifieds on srtforums

[cali]

the real goal for me is to get out of the high 13's and into the low 13 to high 12 sec range with as little money spent as possible. i know it takes money to do so but i like to find deals and i am just started to really get into my srt-4. i have had i for about a year now. what turbo do you guys suggest or think is a good setup for my goals.

If thats your goal, and you are confident you wont deviate from that goal.......then Stage 2 kit. It will be the cheapest...

WHY? NO tuning or dyno time involved.
And more reliable than any tune you can come up with.

Think about it hard before you decide. Many people end up spending hours upon hours tuning and dynoing...when they go the 'tune it your self route'

[Figs]

$560 is definately not beneficial.

I got my PTP WGA for $70.00 (seen them go from $60-$80)
There's a guy on SRTforums selling the Coldside Pipe with Greddy Type S Bov for $160... and I've seen some go like that for $200-230 with the same bov and other different kinds.

So lets say it was $230 for the pipe/bov and $70 for the WGA that would put you at $300... that means $206 more for a boost controller which you save because you don't need it. The AGP or PTP/Kinetic/SBR WGA are adjustable and so are a few others that pop up here and there.

[cali]

Why do you guys waste $ on BOv's?
For sound? Dont tell me for performance.

The stocker works fine.....and is PCM controlled....

[Figs]

I went Stage 1, Stage 2 is nice but I've heard its not the greatest on the dyno as far as the numbers it puts out... but the power band on the street is nice. This is what I've heard and read. Stage 3 is oh so great but I can't afford it... but if I could I would get it. Regardless you want to tune an SRT-4 to get more power out of it since they do run rich. I'm pegging 10.0 on my Wideband.

I just have the blue plate, I don't want any aftermarket bov at this time. I don't gain anything from it.

[bmwdrifter]

thanks for the info on the wga's and bov's. i live in the pensacola area so there really isnt much of a "scene" around here to get any good tips or to really dyno and test tune my car. i am planning on attending uti in orlando for the fall and i know that there is a big scene there.

[Figs]

No problem.

There's quite a few SRT-4 owners in Orlando. Good luck!

[bmwdrifter]

the stock bov doesnt releas the hot air into the atmosphere but recirculates it back into the turbo correct? this causing a warmer running temp for the turbo slightly harming performance. i know i could by the mopar bov converter where it converts it into a pressure releasing bov. i do, and i sadly say this, want the bov for the sound and just for the fact that it is necessary in order to reach the psi i would like to. but i think as far as i am looking now is possibly the mopar bov,i have a 2005 so it comes with stage 1 injectors, and a decent wga.

[bmwdrifter]

what turbo seems to be getting the most positive attention? i have heard a great deal about the t3/t4 turbos maching up well with the srt-4 aftermarket.

[bmwdrifter]

i like what i am seeing with the garret 50 trim with .63 a/r. (but that is about a month from now)

[Figs]

the stock bov doesnt releas the hot air into the atmosphere but recirculates it back into the turbo correct? this causing a warmer running temp for the turbo slightly harming performance. i know i could by the mopar bov converter where it converts it into a pressure releasing bov. i do, and i sadly say this, want the bov for the sound and just for the fact that it is necessary in order to reach the psi i would like to. but i think as far as i am looking now is possibly the mopar bov,i have a 2005 so it comes with stage 1 injectors, and a decent wga.

The mopar bov converter is also know as the blue plate/ricer plate. The plate has holes... therefore venting the bov and giving you the psssshh noise. I warn you though it will blow off lightly even when not in boost. It annoys some people and they take it off but I like mine and hey I couldn't beat it for $65. I bought it new but there's people selling that plate for $20-$30 used.

The stock WGA opens at like 4psi... you'll boost up to 15psi or 14.7 but then you'll see it drop even with the gas pedal down to the ground. It opens too early. I have the PTP WGA and around 17psi is where I am at. I have an 05 but I have Stage 1... not just the injectors which came in the 05's already. I have the Stage 1 PCM as well... no overboost codes here... 10whp/10trq gained with the Stage 1 PCM plus it has a few options.

[Figs]

what turbo seems to be getting the most positive attention? i have heard a great deal about the t3/t4 turbos maching up well with the srt-4 aftermarket.

E1 and the E2 as far as turbo's. Do a search on SRTforums... they are stock turbo's upgraded with all the goodies. There's also the PTP SST.

If I were to choose for myself I would go with the E1. But I pretty much have my mind set on just picking up another stock turbo and having it re-worked. My mind can change though and if that were the case I would just go with E1.

[bmwdrifter]

i would rather the whooosh sound. yeah ,everything i have read on the stock wga says it sucks. i know this is a really NOOB type quwtsion but since i am one i can justify my asking of what is the e1 or e2 and ptp sst. sorry for the noobienes

[Figs]

Give me a minute and I'll pull information on the E1/E2 turbos and the PTP SST.

[Figs]

Forward Motion has the E1/E2 turbos... they are a vendor on SRTforums... information can be found in there forum which is this link below:
Forward Motion - SRTforums.com (http://www.srtforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=113)

Forward Motion (FM) also has a website with this product and others and can be found here:
Forward Motion - Specializing in front wheel drive dodge performance parts - SRT4, Turbo, Mopar, Plymouth, GLH, GLHS, Omni, Daytona, Shadow (http://www.forwardmotioninc.com/)

PTP aka PTPerformance has the SST turbo... they are a vendor as well on SRTforums and information can be found in there forum which is this link below:
PTPerformance - SRTforums.com (http://www.srtforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=241)

PTP also has a website with this product and others and can be found here:
PT-Performance.com (http://www.pt-performance.com/)

[Figs]

There's also information floating around as far as supporting mods needed and so fourth. Also dyno runs and track proven results are floating around there as well.

[bmwdrifter]

thanks for the info, you have been a huge help and insight. i will definately check those out, it seems i might be getting an upgraded turbo sooner than i first thought.

[Figs]

No problem. There's options out there. You can achieve some goals with simple setups on these cars and for not even that much money. I set a hp goal and that's what I'm looking at getting. I could go for more but I'll be happier just going faster then stock haha. Although a 50trim setup keeps floating around in the back of my mind... but yet not affordable so I'll go with my current plan. My goal is set at atleast 300whp or close with the torque being over 300. That on the stock turbo... we shall see.

[bmwdrifter]

i am really liking the ptp turbo. i think i can hit that 350 hp within the month!!!!

[bmwdrifter]

i have about 3000 or so saved up and am really seeing what i can play with.

[cali]

Guys I want to clarify couple things.

1. The mopar blue pate DOES not blow off in vacuum and all the time. If it does its INSTALLER error and I can prove it to anyone who has the symptom. Its all a myth that was spread by idiots on srtforums.

bmw, you admitted you wanted a BOV for sound and I can live with that. As long as you didnt try to tell me its better.

In regards to you comment about recirculating: The air is re-circulated on the outlet side of the compressor....it does not pass thru the compressor a second time.

fwddsm....I saw your comments about stage 2 dyno..
What do you prefer high dyno #'s ? Or a car that does the job? Do you know how much air flows across your IC when you're driving? VS that dyno fan blowing?
Dyno's are just for measuring changes..not absolute performance in my opinion


Oh and the stock WGA does not suck..its a 4PSi spring, and its controlled by the PCM.
So now you wanna say but the boost dies in the upper rpm...well there's a reason. Invest in a OBDII logger and you'll see.

[Figs]

Explain the blue plate, because I installed it exactly how the instructions came with it from Mopar. Same directions I have read online as well. What is the light psh not psssssh, that I hear sometimes under vac close to 0? Mine does not blow off under vac all the time, just when I get close to the 0 and let off or shift.

I have nothing against stage 2, just the fact that they don't do well on the dyno so I've heard. I would prefer both a car that dyno well so I have proof of its power and a car that does the job. But a car that does the job is more important. Well... really come to think about it... you can run at the track, get a timeslip and prove otherwise with the Stage 2. So the dyno is not really that important.

I don't like the stock WGA and I have a ScanGauge Pro so I can watch all those parameters. I'm also running the PTP WGA T'd off to the green line, black line capped off... not pcm controlled. I was told to do this by NeonDan.

[bmwdrifter]

but wouldnt an upgraded wga be worth the benefits? all i have read on acquiring a 300whp srt4 with stock turbo requires a fmic and new wga (for boost reasons) since the stocker is set at 15 and can really only reach 17 and has a huge boost drop at redline.

[bmwdrifter]

other mods require pcm upgrade,stage 1 or better injectors and some other stuff i cant remeber right now. (read it on srtforums)

[cali]

Explain the blue plate, because I installed it exactly how the instructions came with it from Mopar. Same directions I have read online as well. What is the light psh not psssssh, that I hear sometimes under vac close to 0? Mine does not blow off under vac all the time, just when I get close to the 0 and let off or shift.

I'm also running the PTP WGA T'd off to the green line, black line capped off... not pcm controlled. I was told to do this by NeonDan.

Your problem is right there in your post. The PCM has no correlation between your boost and BOV solenoid. One is PCM controlled while the other is not...

Look closely at the BOV(pink/blue line), it goes thru a solenoid. When you press the gas, the PCM switches the solenoid to route the blue-line into the pink line...therefore sealing the BOV. The blue line is the HIGHEST pressue source in the turbo, thats why its used for the BOV, to ensure its sealed at the slightest boost.

When you get off the gas, it removes this pressue and you hear the pssh...the reason you hear in vacuum is because of your WGA. The WGA is causing the car to hold boost EARLIER than the PCM expects....so pshhh..

[cali]

but wouldnt an upgraded wga be worth the benefits? all i have read on acquiring a 300whp srt4 with stock turbo requires a fmic and new wga (for boost reasons) since the stocker is set at 15 and can really only reach 17 and has a huge boost drop at redline.

You really should 'think' about your goals...I bolded your because only you really know what you want.

Of course there are many ways to reach 300whp, but the price and effort is what I would consider....I've not seen an srt make 300whp on a FMIC and WGA...usually some fuel pigy back is involved + intake + tuning.

The only reason I mention these things is several years ago I started going down that road....and I'm glad I turned around and went the Stage Kit way. The amount of money I spent not to mention the time installing things, and then troubleshooting stupid issues, was not worth it.

[Figs]

Your problem is right there in your post. The PCM has no correlation between your boost and BOV solenoid. One is PCM controlled while the other is not...

Look closely at the BOV(pink/blue line), it goes thru a solenoid. When you press the gas, the PCM switches the solenoid to route the blue-line into the pink line...therefore sealing the BOV. The blue line is the HIGHEST pressue source in the turbo, thats why its used for the BOV, to ensure its sealed at the slightest boost.

When you get off the gas, it removes this pressue and you hear the pssh...the reason you hear in vacuum is because of your WGA. The WGA is causing the car to hold boost EARLIER than the PCM expects....so pshhh..

All my lines are routed as stock. Every single one. The only thing I did was cap off the black line that would go to the WGA... I left the line there and just capped it off. I "T" off the green line and ran a hose from that to the WGA. Non-PCM controlled boost.

The BOV was still doing what its doing now when the WGA was PCM controlled. The problem is that now its more prone to PTB. It also did it when I was on the stock WGA w/just the blue plate no other mods/bolt-on's... all stock vac lines.

Everyone I've spoked too, even on a completely stock setup... meaning all they had was a blue plate. Said the same thing that they would get the small psh or tsh sound under vac. I experienced the samething when I only had the blue plate and everything else was stock. I don't think its install error because like I said I installed it just like the instructions from Mopar said and these are the instructions that can be found online as well. It's not leaking either atleast it wasn't about a month ago when I had a boost leak test down.

So I can understand one being PCM controlled (BOV) and the other not being PCM controlled (WGA). But I don't understand how your saying its the WGA causing it but when I was on the stock WGA with no mods besides the blue plate it was still doing it.

[cali]

So I can understand one being PCM controlled (BOV) and the other not being PCM controlled (WGA). But I don't understand how your saying its the WGA causing it but when I was on the stock WGA with no mods besides the blue plate it was still doing it.

And neither do I. That ^^ makes no sense. There had to have been a pressue leak somewhere. It just doesnt follow logic, and it cant be back magic, although I think some cars are possessed.

I've had my rice plate for 4years now, and still dont experience any pre-mature pshh.

[Figs]

I did have a boost leak but not at the plate, it was on the hotside. Which was fixed about a month ago or so. I had a boost leak test done today and I have no boost leaks.

Drove another SRT-4 today and it also made a psh noise in vac, same as one I test drove about 2 weeks ago.

Did you install yours differently then what the instructions said to? Your the only one that I've heard of saying that it doesn't make a psh/tsh noise in vac when you let off in vac. That's the main reason people get rid of their's they get tired of it blowing off so easily even when its not in boost.

[cali]

Did you install yours differently then what the instructions said to? Your the only one that I've heard of saying that it doesn't make a psh/tsh noise in vac when you let off in vac. That's the main reason people get rid of their's they get tired of it blowing off so easily even when its not in boost.

Not at all....just like they said. been there for years, on the stock turbo and now on the s3 turbo.
All my vac lines are exactly the way it came from the factory.

[Sourskittle]

ALL I want to add to this post is... Do a search for threads with "sourskittle" in them, watch all the cars I race with, and then know..... I use nothing, but PTP SSTs. I was one of first 2-3 srt4s to run 11's on the stock turbo without nitrous, and I did it with WAY WAY less mods then the other guys that didn't have a SST.

My car made 345whp 407TQ on a mustang dyno ( reads lower than a dyno jet ) with the stock intercooler, stock air intake, and never as much as a bolt pulled off the valve cover, clutch, pulleys, intake manifold or anything.

Stage2 with toys. PTP SST. Water injection and a few other small mods with race gas.

I'm shooting for OVER 400whp on the SST after I fix the motor ( see my other thread for pics/video ).

On the other hand... You don't sound super tuner friendly. A Stage3 might be your best bet. Its very fast, and it doesn't get any easier to tune ( b/c there is not tuning ).

If your willing to learn/tune, then the SST from PTP is the way to go for a budget, great street friendly SRT4. My wife daily drove mine to work, and I raced it on the weekends. It was are mini-van, until we bought a real mini-van last Thursday :lol:

ALso... keep in mind, not one SST equipped SRT4 has made less than 300whp. 300whp used to take A LOT of mods ( when I got my SRT4, I knew someone with EVERY bolt-on and only made like 287whp ). You gotta to tune the car. Tuning in a SRT4 is almost everything. Not many people have put the tuning with the driver skill, but the ones that have, are the ones that run 11's on the stock turbo without nitrous. Everyone else just goes faster by using bigger tires and 150whp more.