Possible power surge???

[TIM TIM TIM]

I made a thread a while ago about how the radio kept popping. its still doing it and we have noticed that it seems to only happen when we hit the gas hard, not just gradually but just jump on it.. its a 06 chevy diesle van. the set up is an alpine h/u, kicker sx 1250.1, sx 900.4, 2 eclipse titanuim 12's.. When i used the sxrc (Remote for amps) i can go through the "sick bay" and look up the history of them and they have quite a few over volt's, cant remember number.. Would this popping, and and shut off (amps dont shut off, just dont play for a minute then come back on) be from them getting a hit of too much power? i see 14 volts very consistant during regular driving, its the diesle so its got 2 batterys and all already.. If this could be the problem, how would i fix it?? add a cap??

[TIM TIM TIM]

???? nobody?

[stompy]

first who did your setup and what impedence are your subs at.
second most alternators run at 13.7-14.4

[POST]

first who did your setup

who cares who did it?

people might suggest checking your voltage regulator, grounds (i know you've probably checked 100 times but what may LOOK good to you, may not be.) If you have a bunch of grounds on one spot, try taking them off and ground them elsewhere.


But since its really popping at the gas poundage, then i'd check that alt/volt regulator.... since its a diesel, i know it needs that extra voltage but i don't know how you can dumb it down without affecting the rest of your truck:crack:.

Eh this seems rather pointless but try running a muuuch beefier ground (or 2nd one) for your alternator and make sure its screwed down tight...

[TIM TIM TIM]

If its a ground problem id be amazed. the 2 amps are sharing a 0 guage ground, and the battery has a pretty big one too, I guess I can try upping that one somehow though :dunno:. Whats the volt regulator, where is it and how do i check it? would a cap possibly help with something like this, to regulate the power a little more?

[GradeA_TireFryer]

try unplugging the alt so it does not work and see if the noise goes away! diesel do not need much electricy to run - they run off of fuel only! no spark, the fuel pump may be electric but alot of them are mechanical

[TIM TIM TIM]

ok and if that fixes the problem.. what do i do

[GradeA_TireFryer]

buy a new alt from autozone - put it on and if that fixes it your done -if it is and under warranty take it in, is the noise entering the amps by power or signal (rca's) - you worked at cc as a installer - didnt you?

[POST]

If its a ground problem id be amazed. the 2 amps are sharing a 0 guage ground, and the battery has a pretty big one too, I guess I can try upping that one somehow though :dunno:. Whats the volt regulator, where is it and how do i check it? would a cap possibly help with something like this, to regulate the power a little more?


Hold up hold up, I'm NOT talking about the battery ground, im talking about the alternator ground.

[POST]

try unplugging the alt so it does not work and see if the noise goes away! diesel do not need much electricy to run - they run off of fuel only! no spark, the fuel pump may be electric but alot of them are mechanical

Why the hell was i under the impression that diesel = electrical hogs? or at least that they needed a large amount of power for something....? :?

[Notladstyle]

Why the hell was i under the impression that diesel = electrical hogs? or at least that they needed a large amount of power for something....? :?

they take an insane amount of power to start and heat the coils - but once they are started the pressure and heat ignites the fuel without a spark.

[POST]

they take an insane amount of power to start and heat the coils - but once they are started the pressure and heat ignites the fuel without a spark.

true that, at least i wasnt completely wrong :D

[TIM TIM TIM]

yeah they take alot for start up.. I doubt the alt is bad, its a brand new van we just bought it maybe 6 months ago and this has happend since day 1 of the system in there.. How much would someone here charge to come and fix this shit. I hooked it all up, I will help fix and I have most tools needed here (accept multi-meter, mine broke) I just need some more knowledge. I sold stuff at CC btw, not install.. I just helped most of the installers here and there. I still know how to do it all, I have hooked up plenty of systems. This is the first time i have ran into this.. The rca's are ran directy from the h/u.. it has the 3 sets of outputs, front rear and sub. Power is ran from the battery right underneath and ground is ran to a thick support piece on the corner of the floor/sidewall

[Notladstyle]

if the sick bay says over voltage at the same time you hit the gas, it stands to reason the voltage regulator is not fast enough to limit the voltage before it spikes to over 16v. this is harmless to the engine and most of the car's components but could damage your system.

A capacitor will slow your voltage change(rise and fall) but not by much, though maybe enough to eliminate the problem.

[POST]

if the sick bay says over voltage at the same time you hit the gas, it stands to reason the voltage regulator is not fast enough to limit the voltage before it spikes to over 16v. this is harmless to the engine and most of the car's components but could damage your system.

A capacitor will slow your voltage change(rise and fall) but not by much, though maybe enough to eliminate the problem.

Yep, I am positive now without a doubt its your voltage regulator. Whether it be internal or external (to the alternator) is dependent on your vehicle model and type but you should get it replaced pretty much asap. This may not be hurting your vehicle components too much.... but its still hurting them. That and the amps you're powering are probably protecting themselves but they are definitely not liking whats going on.

Volt reg's aren't that expensive but if you do want to get on the higher end stuff I have a coworker who has a digital adjustable voltage regulator that he uses for his boat... that would be $200.


Get that shit fixed Tim!

[TIM TIM TIM]

I dont see how this is already broke, It did it since day one on a brand new van.. Is 16 volts where the amp would show an overvolt??

Its a gm, so it has that littel box that is supposed to let you put an aftermaket hu in it, What makes me think its NOT a power surge is that when you turn it off (Radio stays on) but when you open a door (when radio turns off) it popps too, so i dont see how that would be a power surge.. .This is some annoying shit..

Toby, how much if i bring this to you for you to take a look?

[POST]

I dont see how this is already broke, It did it since day one on a brand new van.. Is 16 volts where the amp would show an overvolt??

Its a gm, so it has that littel box that is supposed to let you put an aftermaket hu in it, What makes me think its NOT a power surge is that when you turn it off (Radio stays on) but when you open a door (when radio turns off) it popps too, so i dont see how that would be a power surge.. .This is some annoying shit..

Toby, how much if i bring this to you for you to take a look?

Its not supposed to be anywhere near that high, see if you can adjust it?

You said it only happened when you slammed on the gas!? damn tim get your story straight ;).

Or yeah take it to Toby.

[Notladstyle]

RAP relay may not be isolated.

If this is the case, when a relay shuts off, the coil momentarily sends a giant voltage spike across its poles which could be 50 or 500 volts. This would cause your pop and the over voltage protection.



Just because the alternator holds 16 volts does not mean every piece of electronics will be OK with it. SX amps are entirely digital and they are regulated so a large voltage spike would cause them more harm than your average unregulated CRUNCH amp.

Also, im wondering, do you still run them inside their retail boxes =/

[TIM TIM TIM]

lol no there out of the boxes now... So how do i Isolate the rap relay?? Sorry i forgot to mention that part in the begining :lol:

[Notladstyle]

The RAP relay wouldnt cause your amps to shut off when you hit the gas, only when you open the door.

There are too many relays linked to the ignition circuit to fix them all, try installing a power filter on the headunit or try using a manual switch to supply power to the headunit.

[TJElite]

While it could be a voltage regulator problem, that seems odd. Unless, like Dalton said, those amps are just super protected against overvolt conditions. Its not uncommon for voltages to jump around like that.

One of the first things I might try is to get the amps off the alternator circuit. You could unplug the alternator, but I'd rather see you throw another battery in there temporarily. Hook power and ground right from the amps to this battery. Make sure everything is bolted down, and then try stomping the gas. If this fixes it, it most likely is a voltage spike. If it doesn't, well, then it isn't.

If it is a spike, you could either fix the spike, or damp it with a big diode.

Toby

[TIM TIM TIM]

im pretty sure its a spike now. I sat in there agian thinking of what everyone has said, looked up at the remote for the amps and opend the door (turning off the radio) and it popped, like always and the remote flashed "sx 900.4" "overcurrent" back and forth.. So i went to the sick bay and looked at the max volt and it was like 15.7, thats damn close to the 16 dalton was talking about.. what do you think??? and please elaborate more on this diode thing, what is it, how do i get it or make it if thats the case, and what is a price on one?