help!!

[neondriver]

started my car and went to work...almost to work (10 miles) my car was just below 1/4 tank of gas. i got in the turn lane and it stalled. i went to start it and all it did was turn over. i got it home and added new spark pluggs, iso-heat in the gas incase i went through a puddle, i put my coil from my other neon tyhat i know is good and still nothing. it is geting gas, not sure about spark yet...an possible ideas? it does turn over bt doesnt start, i had it backfire a cople times earler causing a small shot of flame out the throttle body, i also used quick start and still nothing....im out of ideas and could use any help...

thanks

[neondriver]

so i unplugged the injectors and turned it over...got a loud backfire....then turned over again for a while and nothing..plugged the injectors back in and still nothing WTF??

[SlowAssNeon]

check spark. im thinkin youve got none.

[neondriver]

spark is weak and spratic when it does happen...coil id good though..what else could cause no spark

[BlackWind]

bad grounds/wiring harness/pcm/anal demons.

[Dano Moparo]

pcm/crank sensor/cam sensor

[neondriver]

wouldnt the sensors throw a code? the only codes i got have really no major impact on the motor running wise.

[neondriver]

so today i got no spark...

[Dano Moparo]

what codes did you get?

[neondriver]

only code was battery dicsconnected within last 50 key on cycles

[SlowAssNeon]

the ecu *should* set a code for the crank position sensor if it doesnt see a signal from it during cranking... but unfortunately it doesnt always do so, and thus making it slightly more difficult to diagnose fast.
same goes for the cam sensor too unfortunately.

considering you went from having weak spark, to no spark.. i too am thinking you should be checking wiring - mainly grounds. it very well still could be a sensor, but id start with the wires.

[neondriver]

now that i tink of it on my way to work i heard a mild loud sound like i ran something over..but when i looked behind me there was nohing in the road..shortly after is when the car stalled and wouldnt start. so either sonething broke, or i did hit something which may of hit a wire or something...i really hope its something simple and stupid that is just a matter of finding. but for now im stuck driving my white neon aronnd :/

[Dano Moparo]

How olds the belt? Almost sounds like a broken belt.

Sometimes the water pumps in them take a shit and takes out the belt

[neondriver]

so i messed with it today. i unplugged the sensor on the valve cover (right side of the front most cam) with the sensor unplugged it started but sounded like crap. i put a sensor from my other neon and it still didnt start unless the sensor was unplugged. i drove it down my block(about 4 house's distance) with the sensor unplugged and it ran like absoult crap with no pick up like it should. i unplugged the sensor from my other neon and it stil ran like normal but hesitated to start. i took a vid of it at idle which should be up and working soon...

[neondriver]

2 short vids mostly showing how it sounds.....let me know if the video works because its my 1st time using photo bucket for movies

http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a54/neondriver/?action=view&current=brokenmotorwmv.flv
http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a54/neondriver/?action=view&current=brokenwmv.flv

[bOoStIn-NeOn]

It almost sound like the timing is off.

[neondriver]

i took the valve cover off and everything looks normal..theres one bolt on th oil pan i need to figure out how to get off because it sits behind the motor mount, then i can see if anything looks wrong on the bottom end. the knocking sound is comming from the lower end so i fear something broke. i stil dont get why it starts with the sensor unplugged and not plugged in. but the timing is advanced because of teh mopar computer and the crane 16 cams

[SlowAssNeon]

ah crap. i remember someone on neonspeed had a similar issue.. car would run (in limp mode - which should be called "barely friggin runs mode") with the cam sensor unplugged, but as soon as you plug it or a new one in, it wouldnt run again. i forget what the cause was :(

[HPNOTIQracing]

the exhaust sounds like its timing. but not sure
you need to get the pan off. its clicking awful loud could be valves slapping

[neondriver]

i cant get the dam motor mount off the bolts are rusted on....im gonna ned to find some sort of breaker bar because i have nothing lying around my house....i really need to figure this out and get the thing back on the road.

[SlowAssNeon]

i talked about it today with one of the other techs at work.. and he thinks its possibly the timing being incorrect. (but without being able to actually hear it or anything, he said its just a guess at this point)
odd though, that you arent getting the code 11.

no CEL at all btw?

[96neonmike]

some one with really good skills on neon with probs wanna help me also lol my car sounds just like what his is doing mine runs but is hesitating on throttle respose slow excelleration till it hit a certain rpm which idk cuz the damn car dont got a tach and also is had alot of shit dont to it timing alt and power steering belt water pump coilpack multiple plugs egr o2 sensor oil sending unit head gasket and the pcv valve have all been replaced on car also has all new gaskets on the intake mani still just cant find the prob also ive had the coilpack replced so when i did that my firing went back to normal recently got it in the first cylinder again but its showing spark changed spark plug still changed again still idk wtf is wrong with it

[neondriver]

http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a54/neondriver/?action=view&current=brokenmotorwmv.flv

this is what it sounds like

[96neonmike]

i gotta say 2 it sounds like timing take the timing belt tensioner off and or take the whole belt off and see if the water pump is free or if it locks up after a while of turning it i did that and found out that the water pump was shot on mine a while back also temp would go up also if anything but it could have skiped like 1 or 2 notchs on the cams or crank did that before 2 mine dont sound or ever sounded that bad tho the cams should be top dead if im right and the crank should be 1/2 notch looked in car manual haynes but just my overlook it says bring crank back 3 or 2 notchs conterclockwise then bring to half a notch on crank an arrow dont know if that helps do you have a cover over the timing belt still?

[SlowAssNeon]

gotta remember though, that when the neon runs in "barely friggin runs" limp mode.. it does kinda sound like timing is off.
ive worked on a couple cars and forgot to plug the map sensor in, started it up, and it would be all choppy and could barely hold an idle (if at all) .. plugged the map sensor in, viola! problem fixed.

now.. if the timing was off - you *should* get a code 11 because the cam pos sensor and crank pos sensor are no longer in synch. but you arent, correct?
if it was a bad map sensor, youd get a map sensor code.. but you arent, right?

gotta multimeter? a scope would be awesome, but i dont think ya got one, cuz if ya did you wouldve mentioned checking the sensors with it heh.
i can see about comin out possibly tomorrow to look at it if ya gotta multimeter/voltmeter (id bring mine, but its kinda unusable at the moment)

[Dano Moparo]

I just listened to the video. That sounds like valve train interference. Yikes!

[HPNOTIQracing]

yes the valves do sound like they are slapping. i wouldnt run it again till you know the timing is right.

[neondriver]

ok, bottom end is ok, it is from the head. i took the valve cover off and everything seems fine. all i think can be left is the valves slapping like some of you have said. so it seems i may end up taking the head off and trying to see what is going on.

[Dano Moparo]

Yeah things usally look ok from above. You prob won't be able to tell if they are bent until you (try to) take them out. Take a good look at the teeth on the belt and how the water pump is.

[HPNOTIQracing]

usually if the valves are bent you can grab the rocker over the top of the valve and wiggle it if the valve is bent it will be loose. kinda the same way you test a rod bearing. it shouldnt move. if it does that valve is probly bent.

im not sure if this is an accurate way to test it. but its always worked for me.

[Josiah]

my guess is that the timing belt jumped a few teeth, possibly causing valvetrain interference, but thats all it is, a guess

[SlowAssNeon]

if the timing belt jumped "a few teeth" , he would have gotten the code 11, yet says he hasnt. it only takes 1 tooth off for the ecu to toss the code.