Amp fucked?

[POST]

Yeah I never thought i'd be posting one of these but here it goes.

Got back from the beach and my bro tells me to crank up the bass before i leave (car was sitting outside his house all day, we went to the beach in his)
and i turn it up so i can shock him because last time i had shown him i had the crossovers all off and it was tuned shitty so it hit really low.

I expect a huge ass hit enough to knock my rearview mirror down to face the back seats but nothing happens. I went back to check the amp and no lights are on it, not even protect LED.

Is this because i forced it to go loud without warming it up i guess?
blown fuse?

i dont know how to check for these things.

I'm also going to replace this POS amp (TBSpyder knows haha) once i get my next paycheck.

But i sure as hell dont want to be without bass for 15 days...

thanks to all who respond

[POST]

Kenwood KAC-9102D (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-LLO5hJLwZ6S/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=113KAC9102) this sucker any good? or the 9152D version? i can get them nearly half price so I'm wondering if I'm falling into another hole or should i get something else. My subs only require 750 watts RMS @ 2ohms so from what that says im in the clear.

Budget is $300 MAX

thx again

[Notladstyle]

The fuses are the square things that stick out the side of the amp - if one is blown they probably all are. Look at the metal "bridge" in the middle of the fuse to tell if its blown.

Am amp should perform better the cooler it is (not totally cold though) than when hot.

Get someone to check the power leads with a meter and check the turn on lead for power. If you live near palm harbor ill diagnose it for you on wednesday.

I would take an Alpine mrd-m605 for 250 over that - cool LCD screen digital crossovers 600w rms x 1 into 2ohms. Might still be available else you gotta wait for the stackables.


Kenwood amps have never measures up to their headunits imho

[POST]

thanks a ton for the reply.

As for the amp suggested, that alpine is only 600 watt rms.. I have 750 wt rms subs, it'd be underpowering it a bit? bleh I should probably just stfu and get it anyways =/

[Notladstyle]

thanks a ton for the reply.

As for the amp suggested, that alpine is only 600 watt rms.. I have 750 wt rms subs, it'd be underpowering it a bit? bleh I should probably just stfu and get it anyways =/

what kind of subs do you have? get on aim biatch

[TBSpyder]

You want to start by checking both the fuses on the amp and the fuse under your hood on the power wire coming off your battery. Also, the fuse doesn't necessarily have to "look" blown to be bad. If a blown fuse is the case, you could be drawing too much current which could be a result of too thin of power wire, a bad ground, or your gains cranked too high. Or it could just be a freak situation and never happen again.

[POST]

You want to start by checking both the fuses on the amp and the fuse under your hood on the power wire coming off your battery. Also, the fuse doesn't necessarily have to "look" blown to be bad. If a blown fuse is the case, you could be drawing too much current which could be a result of too thin of power wire, a bad ground, or your gains cranked too high. Or it could just be a freak situation and never happen again.

Funny that you say that John. After checking a few things last night thanks to notladstyle, I couldnt really find anything wrong (visually) but the fker didnt want to turn on. This morning i reinstalled the fuses i took out and checked the fuse holder under the hood. The thing was cracked a little and chipped along the plastic screw-connectors. I guess that might've been it?
Started up the car, went to work without bass, sucked major ass.
I was about to borrow the 200 dollar multimeter from work when i remembered i dont know how to use a multimeter, so i said screw it and i waited till the day ended and i was going to buy a new fuse holder from "the audio itch" on Dale Mabry and Cypress (not even a block from where i work).

I usually remove my faceplate from the cd player because i hate it when i touch it and it's scorching hot, makes me feel like if the thing might get damaged with so much sun exposure. SO i plug it back in, turn on the car and im not expecting any bass to come through and a boring trip back on 275. 10 seconds later all the sudden i hear bass. I'm like no way... how the hell, maybe its my rears. So i put the volume knob up like 20% or so and sure enough, my subs were back in business. I popped open the trunk, looked at the amp and the little LED was lit up again.

wtf?

only got two theories.

Fuse holder is shittied up, maybe the heat from the sun caused it to expand and connect better?

Alpine faceplate might have had a small ball of lint on the metal connector and when i took it off and re-insterted it, it fell off.

oh wait and third one is -- Or it could just be a freak situation and never happen again.

:lol::lol:

[Notladstyle]

Funny that you say that John. After checking a few things last night thanks to notladstyle, I couldnt really find anything wrong (visually) but the fker didnt want to turn on. This morning i reinstalled the fuses i took out and checked the fuse holder under the hood. The thing was cracked a little and chipped along the plastic screw-connectors. I guess that might've been it?
Started up the car, went to work without bass, sucked major ass.
I was about to borrow the 200 dollar multimeter from work when i remembered i dont know how to use a multimeter, so i said screw it and i waited till the day ended and i was going to buy a new fuse holder from "the audio itch" on Dale Mabry and Cypress (not even a block from where i work).

I usually remove my faceplate from the cd player because i hate it when i touch it and it's scorching hot, makes me feel like if the thing might get damaged with so much sun exposure. SO i plug it back in, turn on the car and im not expecting any bass to come through and a boring trip back on 275. 10 seconds later all the sudden i hear bass. I'm like no way... how the hell, maybe its my rears. So i put the volume knob up like 20% or so and sure enough, my subs were back in business. I popped open the trunk, looked at the amp and the little LED was lit up again.

wtf?

only got two theories.

Fuse holder is shittied up, maybe the heat from the sun caused it to expand and connect better?

Alpine faceplate might have had a small ball of lint on the metal connector and when i took it off and re-insterted it, it fell off.

oh wait and third one is --

:lol::lol:

damn, im gonna go with boss sucks and it was just warning you to buy some real audio equipment to power those Polk subs.

[POST]

damn, im gonna go with boss sucks and it was just warning you to buy some real audio equipment to power those Polk subs.

yeah but since it's working for now, im going to hold off until later. No reason to break the checkbook if its working now.