Need Help

[chad79fl]

I have had my 2005 SRT-4 for a little over a year now and I have 14,000 miles on it. I had a manual boost controller on it and was peeking at 25 PSI and love the way my car ran. I now have it hooked back up stock and have the set up for the Greddy B-Spec Boost controller and am getting ready to replace the wastegate actuator, anyways there is two questions I have.

1. It seems that I hear air early from the blowoff...It does it as I hit the gas and not only when I let off to shift. I am also getting only 4-5 PSI on my boost now. When I purchased the car it was pushing 11 PSI stock why am I not getting that boost now?

2. Does anyone in this area work on these cars? I found a place called Twin Cam up in the Holiday area but that is a good little drive from Dunedin, plus they all have eclipses so I was just wandering if anyone knew someone in my area that is good with these cars.

Thanks for all the help and I am glad to be a new member

[bluelighting]

25psi??? Dayum, you ran the shit out of that turbo. And if you're boosting only 4-5 now. it's probably a boost leak.

[chad79fl]

I got my wastegate actuator on last night and love it, my car feels like a whole new animal, but I am now only pusing 2lbs of boost would this be because of a boost leak? and if so how to I find the leak or if that is what it is? Thanks for all the help.

[bOoStIn-NeOn]

Why does people think they run high boost when really they need fuel to support it. :rolleyes:

[Mike K.]

How does your car feel like a whole new animal if it's only pushing 2 lbs...Im lost where..How were you running 25 psi on the stock turbo...The stock guage only goes to 20...A little more detail on what your car has done and are you doing the work yourself...Im in Palm Harbor..Whats your car look like? LMK
Mike

[chad79fl]

Well as you read above....I was only pushing 5lbs and my blow off was releasing air early when I replaced the wastegate actuator last night It stopped releasing early and I can feel the difference in the tourque and it rides nicer even though it has dropped to 2lbs of boost. I know the stock gage goes to 20, but I was over maxing the needle at max boost and it would settle just a little over the 20 at redline so I was guessing the max peek since the guage didn't read that far. As far as how I was running that much boost on the stock turbo..I don't know other asked me the same thing and didn't believe me till I took them for a ride and they saw it. I don't know how detailed I can get but here is the story:

My friend put on the forge motorsports blow off and manual boost controller and this is when I was pushing the 25 psi right afterward. Then one day I was turning real sharp into a parking spot and I had pulled the hose off the the powersteering some how and they towed it to Dodge and put that back on. I was still getting the same performance but wanted to be able to control the boost from inside so that I didn't have to get out or run it on high all the time driving so I bought the Greddy S-Spec Boost Controller and had Twin Cam in Holiday hook it up. They got it all put together and we could only get the low boost to work and it would push around 15 psi so thinking that there was something wrong with the controller I exchanged it for the B-Spec Boost Controller and ordered a wastegate acutator, because Twin Cam said that should fix it. Well, they seem to be always busy or not interested to install the actuator or finish the boost controller job they already started so I put the actuator on myself last night and have all the tubbing and wiring all hooked up for the boost controller just don't have the actual box or computer component installed. I am friends with a guy by the name of Brett who said I could find some help here.....see I am new to this and am interested in learning and doing new things with my car I am just looking for someone that can actually help. So, Now I need to finish putting my boost controller on, but need help and am hoping to find someone that knows these cars and is interested in helping someone new here.......Thanks and sorry if I didn't get all the info across in the first place and hope this helps.

By the way My Car is Silver with Tribal and A Red Dodge Symbol on the middle of the tribal at the top of my windshield I also have replaced the taillights with the alteeza lights and also replace the yellow headlights with whites and have replaced the fog lights with blue glow in the darks. I have a Pioneer CD/DVD Player with 12"CVR Kicker Comp. powered by a 250 watt Kicker AMP. With Red neon and strobe that turns on in the trunk when it is opened.

[Mike K.]

Ok Chad couple of things we need to go over...These cars are lucky to see 16 lbs of post with the stock turbo and wga( depending on weather conditions and what the map is reading) you installed a MBC and turning it up to over 20 (from what the guage read) is very bad for the car. In order to see anything close to those boost levels you need a aftermarket wastegate which you just recently installed on the car. Now for the reason your only holding 2 lbs of pressure your adjustments on the wga could be set wrong or your have a super major leak and that could be the reason for your bov going off "early". Either way dude I highly recommend you stop messing wtih the car if you dont know what your doing because you could cause serious damage. You need to have the wga adjusted properly and have the Greddy BC tuned to the proper settings by someone that knows what they are doing. I might be able to help you out sometime if you would like..LMK
Mike

[chad79fl]

Mike,

That would be great! I would really like if you would help. I talk to one person today that said that I don't have a leak, because my vac reads 23 psi when at idle. He also said the same as you that the WGA needs adjusted. Like I said I am new to this and am looking a learning, but don't want to ruin my car while doing it so the help would be really appreciated. When adjusting the WGA which direction do I want to go with it?

[chad79fl]

So, I adjusted the wastegate actuator and I am peeking 15 psi and dropping to around 12, the only thing is I get a whoosh sound while the gas is pressed and I get a fluttering sound when I let go of the gas does this sound right? I also need help to finish installing the Greddy B-Spec BC and wandered if there was someone in the area that could help me do this?

[Josiah]

a fluttering sound when letting off the gas indicates a BOV(or bypass valve, or whatever dodge calls the SRT unit) that is not opening and releasing the excess pressure, it exactly what happened to me when one time I was putting my engine back together and forgot to run a vacuum line to my BOV anyway, you should hear a "whoosh" sound when letting off the gas, indicating excess air pressure being released to the atmosphere

p.s. correct me if I am wrong, but most electronic boost controllers require a dual port wastegate correct?

[chad79fl]

See and that whoosh when you let off the gas was what I had before I adjusted the WGA, but was only getting 1lb - 2lbs of boost, so I adjusted the WGA and now I am getting the boost but I am getting the whoosh while pressing the gas and the fluttering when the gas is let go. So is this a bad thing for the car? and what do I do to fix it. I don't know about any other electric boost controllers but this one dosen't require a dual port wg. The tubing and wiring is ran, I just need the computer component and the controller box put in the mix.

[Josiah]

yes, this fluttering is bad, the pressure builds up when the throttle plate closes and goes back the way it came....to the turbo...slowing or even reversing the spin of the fins, causing premature turbo wear....as for what you need to fix it...couldnt say for sure, since I never actually used the SRT turbo setup and its BOV setup right on the turbo, just to make sure, you do have a vacuum line run to the BOV/Bypass valve/Surge valve correct? should be the red line I believe on an SRT

also, another note of interest from Mopar...

OVERBOOST - 103.4 kPa (10 psi) or more even at part throttle (could be as high as 137.8 kPa (20 psi) or more). A "Fluttering" noise can be heard during overboost. CAUTION: Engine damage can result from prolonged Overboost. </B>Waste Gate control hose plumbing compromised/disconnected


how do you know how much you are boosting? I wouldnt trust the stock boost gauge, its junk, and consistently breaks giving false boost readings, which is why you probably thought you were boosting 20-25psi...in reality you were probably only boosting 16-17, and since the fluttering is a symptom of overboost and your gauge says you are only at 14, to me your gauge looks faulty, buy an autometer

[chad79fl]

so I adjusted the wga a little more and am peeking 10 psi according to the stock guage it still has the whooshhhhhhh as I hit the gas continously until I let go of the gas but the fluddering has stopped. Is there a specific Autometer that you would suggest?

[Josiah]

whichever one you like, I have a pro comp myself, always reads accurate boost(I can tell because I also know what kpa my MAP sensor is reading and its always dead on) anyway, a pro comp or a sport comp should cost you like $30

[bluelighting]

Just a thought... Check the pink line that connects to the stock diverter valve. Whoever told you that you dont have a leak because your boost guage read in vaccum is wrong. My car, until very recently (thanks D and Luke) had huge boost leaks, and still read in vaccum and in boost.

I do know that if you did not zip tie your pink line to the stock DV, then it probably blew off. I blew mine off at 17 lbs, so at 20+ I can almost certainly say that this one blew off.

Another thing, as was said before, the stock turbo runs out of efficiency at about 19-20 lbs. It also will start to run too lean, becaue there's not enough fuel... espicially at 20lbs at redline. This is VERY bad for you car. The map sensor will pull timing, but you might as well kiss your turbo goodbye. YOu dont want to be pushing (on Stage 0, which I can only assume you are) anymore than about 17-18 psi in 3rd and 4th gear, or you'll get spark cut, which is no fun.

One thing I am wondering is if you have a CEL yet. If you were pushing that much boost, then you most certainly have a P023 code or whatever the hell the other overboost code is. If you do not, then you might want to check your boost guage. It's a common problem with the SRT's, actually. Your boost guage should read 0 when the car is off. If it does not, then the guage is bad. Check these things first, and if you have any problems, I'd be more than happy to help you out with whatever I can if you're ever on my side of town. Good luck.

[chad79fl]

Thanks for the help everything you said make complete sense. I was getting the spark cut and that is why I took the MBC off. I did have the overboost codes but had that reset when I took the MBC off also. So I am going to take a look at the pink line to the DV tomorrow when I can see. I will let you know what I find and I appreciate all the help.

By the way all the tubing is ran for the EBC. It is a Greddy B-Spec II First Question: Do I even need this right now? and if I do I just need to have the little black box with the two connections for the hoses and the actual electronic box put in. You wouldn't know how that would hook up would you? I can hook up the actual electronic box, but the little black box I am not sure what hoses go on which connection

[chad79fl]

So I checked the pink line and it is going to my BOV but is not disconnected, my turbo and WGA are hooked directly together and the red one is going to the intercooler.

Another question I have a Greddy B-Spec II EBC and wanted to know if I should or need to hook this up? and if I should then what I need to know on the boost controller box that goes under the hood has two connections, one as NO on it and the other has COM, there is two connectors hooked on these for tubing, then there is one that there is threads but no connector that reads NC but doesn't seem like any airflow goes through there. I need to know which I hook up to this box, I know one is for the tube that comes from the actual electronic control box but don't know which one and I also don't know what I connect to the other one. So this is where I stand now.

I am not usually on that side of town, but if we could get together sometime that would be great, I would definitly make the trip over there, any help is great and I apprectiate all the help you have been already.

Last thing, How hard is it to replace the clutch in this car? I think I burned my second gear last night racing. It grinds at anything over 4K RPM and I have to force it in, but that is only from first to second. Plus is there a clutch that you recommend this is the one I was looking at getting......http://froogle.google.com/froogle_url?q=http://www.sportcompactonly.com/product.aspx%3Fp%3D1657%26c%3D83%26st%3D40%26l%3D2 %26utm_source%3Dfroogle%26utm_medium%3Dshop&fr=AG_vgAgkILKyPuKMJ4UgjdcLugv0YBp1jqBPx0O_f4P3AAA AAAAAAAA&hl=en

As for everything you said, it makes complete sense. I was getting that spark cut and therefore that is why I removed the MBC. Now I did get the CEL but then when I took the manual controller off I had them reset and it didn't come back on till last night, I readjusted the WGA so that I was pushing 15 psi instead of 10 psi. After half the night it popped on.