Need some input

[canyouheminow]

I'm upgrading my in dash to the new Kenwood DDX 8017 double din and upgrading my amp to the new Kicker KX2500.1? I think I will get a little better quality sound and shouldn't have so much bottom out sound with stuff below 50hz. I did have the KVT-715 and MTX 1501 D, so I hope this makes a better improvement in the over all quality.

[Teamcalloway03]

Put a 100 shot on it..That fix's everything..

[TBSpyder]

Sorry to say, I'm not a big fan of Kicker or Kenwood. IMO, MTX makes better amps. Most of the Kickers I've come across seem to pick up induced noise very easily. What kind of sub are you running? If it's bottoming out, there's a number of things it could be...number one probably being the box it's in. Most problems can be fixed with some extensive tuning of your amps and deck however.

[canyouheminow]

Sorry to say, I'm not a big fan of Kicker or Kenwood. IMO, MTX makes better amps. Most of the Kickers I've come across seem to pick up induced noise very easily. What kind of sub are you running? If it's bottoming out, there's a number of things it could be...number one probably being the box it's in. Most problems can be fixed with some extensive tuning of your amps and deck however.

2 L7 15's in a cutom made ported box so the box isn't the issue, I figured going with the kicker amp would create the best possible sound since both the subs and amp were tested with same brand in mind, my system I had hit hard. I had it drag rated and the best I ever got was 159 it consistantly pushed between 152-156, but got a little to sloppy for my likings in the lower 40hz-20hz range. So I'm hoping matching brand for brand will result in a little better quality sound. Plus the MTX was pushing for all it was worth and when it would hit hard bass line and hard thump line together, the amp would clip and cause my subs to hit the voice coils and make a really emberassing popping noise.

[GradeA_TireFryer]

Watch Those Kickers Subs - As They Get Older The Loosen Up And Bottom Out

[TIM TIM TIM]

im not sure if matching brand for brand will matter to much... but running the more powerfull 2500.1 will help... 2500 watts verse 1000..

[TBSpyder]

If your subs are bottoming out, a sealed box or even a more properly tuned ported box would definetly tighten things up and provide better overall sq. Box design plays a major role, for the most part, in controlling the sub. If your amp is clipping, that's a different issue. Ofcourse a more powerful amp is going to make a difference. Thicker wire and a high output alternator would make a noticeable difference as well.

If you're actually hitting a true 159dbs legal (which I'm highly skeptic of) than I'd say you're getting more than your money's worth with those subs. I've yet to see a pair of L7's and 1000w come anywhere near those numbers.

[TIM TIM TIM]

well i can for sure tell you that your underpowering them with that amp.. at 2 ohms its at 1000rms... i dont know how 2 dvc w/ 4ohm coils are ran at 2 ohms, but if you did it somehow, those subs are rated for a bit more i belive

[canyouheminow]

If your subs are bottoming out, a sealed box or even a more properly tuned ported box would definetly tighten things up and provide better overall sq. Box design plays a major role, for the most part, in controlling the sub. If your amp is clipping, that's a different issue. Ofcourse a more powerful amp is going to make a difference. Thicker wire and a high output alternator would make a noticeable difference as well.

If you're actually hitting a true 159dbs legal (which I'm highly skeptic of) than I'd say you're getting more than your money's worth with those subs. I've yet to see a pair of L7's and 1000w come anywhere near those numbers.

I understand there's a more new system when doing ratings, so when I had it done I don't know what sytem was used I only saw what was put out on the screen, but I've got the heavy duty 160amp (vs 120mp) alternator in my car already, the biggest dry cell battery (that would fit in my trunk area) stinger has to offer, so power supply I don't think is the issue, Really all I would like to have happen is to get rid of that damn popping sound, and get a more consistent SPL level. What about the DDX 8017, anyone heard anything on them or have any experience with it, or reliability?

[GradeA_TireFryer]

If your subs are bottoming out, a sealed box or even a more properly tuned ported box would definetly tighten things up and provide better overall sq. Box design plays a major role, for the most part, in controlling the sub. If your amp is clipping, that's a different issue. Ofcourse a more powerful amp is going to make a difference. Thicker wire and a high output alternator would make a noticeable difference as well.

If you're actually hitting a true 159dbs legal (which I'm highly skeptic of) than I'd say you're getting more than your money's worth with those subs. I've yet to see a pair of L7's and 1000w come anywhere near those numbers.

FINALLY SOMEONE WHO UNDERSTANDS HOW TO GET GOOD SPL
BOX DESIGN IS AS IMPORTANT AS THE SPEAKER IT SELF
YOU CAN MAKE A $50 SUB SOUND GREAT IN A PROPERLY DESIGNED/BUILD BOX
YOU CAN MAKE A $300 SUB SOUND LIKE CRAP IN A BOX NOT ENGINEERED FOR THE SUB

A CLIPPING AMP CAN BE THE CAUSE FROM MANY THINGS,
INPUT CLIPPING
AMP HAS LOST CONTROL OF SPEAKERS (BOX DESIGN COMES IN PLAY HERE)
AMP IS DC'ING
AND JUST TRYING TO GET TOO MUCH OUT OF THE AMP.

NO WAY ARE YOU NEAR 159 DBL, MATHMATICALY IT CAN NOT HAPPEN WITH ONLY 2 SUBS!!!!!

I THINK YOU ARE ON A GOOD TRACK BY CHANGING AMPS, BIGGER IS ALWAYS BETTER, YOU CAN ALWAYS TURN THE GAIN DOWN, LEAVES YOU MORE DYNAMIC HEAD ROOM (ABLAILTY TO KEEP CONTROL OF THE SUBS)
I WOULD TRY CHANGING THE PORT LENGTH/SIZE ON YOUR CURRENT BOX, BOTH MAKING IT LONGER/SHORTER - TRY PLUGGING IT UP ALSO
IF YOU HAVE YOUR SUB SPECS POST THEM AND YOUR BOX SIZES - I WILL PLUG THEM INTO BASS-BOX PRO AND TELL YOU IF YOUR BOX IS CORRECT SIZE AND WHAT IT IS PORTED TO