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View Full Version : which clutch setup do you like??


Undsptddsm
07-28-2005, 06:24 PM
well, time for me to upgrade the clutch on my car...i wanted to ask you dsm guys....actually anyone.....what you guys think...


SBR 3500 or ACT 2600.....i leaning more towards the ACT, but i've heard alot of good things about that SBR....

DEATH ZEPPELIN
07-28-2005, 06:29 PM
Is it for a gst? Most people with fwds like the act 2100.

Undsptddsm
07-28-2005, 08:47 PM
Is it for a gst? Most people with fwds like the act 2100.

i was thinking the 2100...but i've heard alot of the finger going out on pp....and i also figured, i plan on upgrading and doing more mods, i might as well get a stronger clutch now.....

FastEclipseGSXT
07-28-2005, 08:47 PM
if your car is mainly driven on the street get a sprung disk, act 2100 or 2600 seems to be very popular, it will not be long before i have to replace mine as well, i will probably go with a ceramic disk and a decent pressure plate from baycity clutch since my dad has connections there...
i have been running the 2600pp with the 6puck brass disk unsprung and it has lasted only about a year....

Undsptddsm
07-28-2005, 08:50 PM
and your all wheel drive, so i'm pretty sure your launches are alot harder then mine...i think i might stick with the 2600

FastEclipseGSXT
07-28-2005, 08:54 PM
a buddy of mine on here has never complained about his 2600 and hes running a fully built motor, stroked (russellbeerman)

FastEclipseGSXT
07-28-2005, 09:02 PM
ck out slowboy they seem to be overstocked

"I'm just guessing that there are 50 SBR 3500 clutch kits back there. Basically too many for me to count!"
-Cragger www.slowboyracing.com

FiLjAr4LiFe
07-28-2005, 09:18 PM
Are you running 7 bolt or 6 bolt currently? I'm happy with my ACT 2100 and heavy duty pressure plate. I've been told it's not a good idea to go with a heavy clutch such as the 2600 if you havn't gone 6 bolt yet because it increases your chance of cw. :(

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I opened this same thread when I bought a clutch 7 monthes ago, and that was what made me decide, even though shortly after I ended up doing the 6 bolt anyway.

The 2100 has never slipped on me, even when i beat on the car (launching around, driving like and idiot, etc...) and yet it also isn't a pain in the ass to drive with if you're in traffic or just daily driving,

2600 is over kill. But of course, it's a heavier clutch, will most likely outlast the 2100 and can handle more power. I don't know what kind of power you will be putting down.

Ian MMF
07-28-2005, 09:38 PM
2600 and get a fidanza flywheel and put it on while you are in there, last thing you want is to miss a hard shift and have the flywheel expload on you and tear apart the whole car like i have seen happen countless times. Plus it helps the engine rev faster by reducing rotating mass, if you know anything about that.

cavalierchamp
07-28-2005, 09:49 PM
I will not put a 2600 in my car unless I have already crankwalked and have a 6 bolt installed. I have read too many posts about people's cars cw'ing within weeks/months of their 2600 installs.

2100 is plenty for a fwd.

Brandon
07-28-2005, 10:18 PM
and your all wheel drive, so i'm pretty sure your launches are alot harder then mine...i think i might stick with the 2600


+1 stick with the 2600`

DEATH ZEPPELIN
07-28-2005, 11:20 PM
Get the 2900. Its guaranteed to be fwd friendly. ;-)

Undsptddsm
07-28-2005, 11:56 PM
well you guys made some good points in not only supporting but also going against the 2600...you made a good point FiLjAr4LiFe...i haven't really researched this, but it is very logical....and like was mentioned about SB being overstock....if i get a good deal, i might just get the SB for now, and upgrade to the 2600 once i'm done building my 6bolt....hmmm interesting point....i'll let you guys know once i make my choice, i'm going to find out more about the SB....thanks ...

FiLjAr4LiFe
07-28-2005, 11:59 PM
2100 is all you're going to need bud. Be safe about it.

Undsptddsm
07-29-2005, 12:09 AM
not a bad idea, especially when you put it that way....after all, it is my daily driver (for now hopefully)

DEATH ZEPPELIN
07-29-2005, 12:17 AM
It really depends on your prefrence. Do you want to keep spinning everytime you shift with a 2600 or be able to slip a little and have traction with a 2100.

Undsptddsm
07-29-2005, 12:22 AM
It really depends on your prefrence. Do you want to keep spinning everytime you shift with a 2600 or be able to slip a little and have traction with a 2100.

yet another good point

Ian MMF
07-29-2005, 12:39 AM
That's funny, my buddy put in a 2600 in his stock 7bolt 99gst with a 50trim, didnt blow it up or crank walk and is actually on its second 2600 disk. go with the 2600 and spin a little or go with the 2100 and burn through disks every 3 months

DEATH ZEPPELIN
07-29-2005, 12:41 AM
Thats also a factor I forgot about. The 2100 will burn up quicker, but in many cases ive seen people who drive them hard and get very close to the full mileage out of it. Many people do toast them also.

FiLjAr4LiFe
07-29-2005, 01:54 AM
That's funny, my buddy put in a 2600 in his stock 7bolt 99gst with a 50trim, didnt blow it up or crank walk and is actually on its second 2600 disk. go with the 2600 and spin a little or go with the 2100 and burn through disks every 3 months


Ok so your buddy is lucky?
How many miles was on his car?

Also keep in mind he did say this was his daily driver for now. I would hope he's not burning through clutches every 3 monthes. Don't care what kind of clutch you have.

Putting a 2600 if you have over 60000 miles on your car is very high risk. It would be foolish to take a risk on a very small difference. The 2100 is what? 200 dollars cheaper. Lasts a little shorter, but performs great. I'm estimated 255 to the floor and mine doesn't slip at all. But then again thats not a lot of power.

How much power are you planning to put down? Either way, if you're planning on modding your car 6 bolt should be one of your mods otherwise add engine rebuild to the list.

Ian, you know that there are special cases where the 7 bolts don't crankwalk. Just better to be safe than sorry in my opinion.

cavalierchamp
07-29-2005, 03:02 AM
Ian, you know that there are special cases where the 7 bolts don't crankwalk. Just better to be safe than sorry in my opinion.

This man has his head screwed on straight. We all know that there are 7 bolts that make 400 whp without crankwalking. But would the owner rather spread word that he's made 400whp, or that he's crankwalked? Power isn't even the issue here, but it illustrates my point.

4drwhore can post whatever the hell he wants, because he and I obviously don't agree on a lot of things. But I am going to be the voice of reason for the threadstarter and whoever else reads this, warning them that ACT 2600s or clutches with heavier pressure plates are notorious for inducing crankwalk. Do a search on whatever DSM site you choose, and you will come up with all kinds of horror stories. Every 2g with the faulty crankshaft/bearings/oil squirters, whatever you attribute it to, has the potential to crankwalk. Don't give it a reason to with a heavier clutch than you need.

LS1Fever
07-29-2005, 03:08 AM
have you looked into the CFDF clutches? you might want to look into them.

Ian MMF
07-29-2005, 09:07 AM
I understand where you are coming from Filjar. My only reason for saying he should go for it is the fact that I don't think that the installation of a 2600 is the cause of those 7bolts for walking. I think if it was, every one would that has a 2600 not just about 1/10th of them. His talon has over 130,000 miles on it and puts down over 400whp with alot of track passes by yours trully. If it was me I would go for broke, but then again with it being his daily driver I couldn't blame him for trying to play it safe.

FiLjAr4LiFe
07-29-2005, 10:37 AM
From what I've heard Ian, you are lucky not the crankwalk with a 7-bolt, much less extremely lucky to be putting down 400whp, running it at the track, using heavy clutch and not crankwalk.

The safe way: Unless you need to replace the clutch right now, save money to buy 6 bolt + the clutch of your choice whether it be 2600 or 2100 (doesnt matter at that point). If you need to replace the clutch right now, unless you are putting down over 350 whp the 2100 is going to be all you need.

Undsptddsm
07-29-2005, 11:16 AM
yea my clutch definetly has to be replaces a.s.a.p....it is my daily driver with 100k so i will end up playing it safe with the 2100 for now and re-doing the clutch once i'm done with my 6 bolt....i just want something that will get me through until maybe later on this year which is when i should have the 6 bolt done, and from there i'll just replace it again....i'd hate for my motor to walk on me when i dont have the money to rebuild a 6 bolt....

Undsptddsm
07-29-2005, 11:22 AM
ohh and as far as my power.....i haven't really dyno'd but i would like to think i'm in the upper 200 (280-300 hopefully more:grin: ).....but once i do the 6 bolt i'll definatly be higher then that, so the question is, how the 2100 will react with about 280 wheel ponies....

FiLjAr4LiFe
07-29-2005, 11:54 AM
What's your mod list?

2100 will hold 280 to the floor just fine.

LS1Fever
07-29-2005, 11:59 AM
like i said, look into the CFDF clutch. a friend of mine has one in his FWD and i personally think its better then the 2100 if you ask me. it engages like a stock clutch would and grabs like a 2600 would.

Ian MMF
07-29-2005, 12:32 PM
like i said, look into the CFDF clutch. a friend of mine has one in his FWD and i personally think its better then the 2100 if you ask me. it engages like a stock clutch would and grabs like a 2600 would.

I have heard alot of quality control problems with the cfdf clutchs with the weights coming off. I also drove an awd with the cfdf and it sucks on awd compared to the 2600.

FiLjAr4LiFe
07-29-2005, 12:46 PM
I have a 2g gst with 2100. It's fine. He's not gonna be doing anything serious until the 6 bolt which is a good call. Prob wanna do the 2600 at the same time that you do 6 bolt.

Autobot
07-29-2005, 12:57 PM
like i said, look into the CFDF clutch. a friend of mine has one in his FWD and i personally think its better then the 2100 if you ask me. it engages like a stock clutch would and grabs like a 2600 would.

you have a PM waiting

Undsptddsm
07-29-2005, 03:19 PM
yea, i've heard bad things, especially about the weights on the cfdf clutches....now the question is do i get the 2100 or the sb3500, supposdly the sb 3500 is pretty much the same 2100 but with a stronger pp and stronger clamping force

my mods list are...big 16g, fmic, 2.5 ic piping (short route), bov, mbs, intake 3' turbo back exhaust...dsmlink, 650 injectors, 255 fp....

LS1Fever
07-30-2005, 02:31 AM
who told you bad things about CFDF? ive heard more horror stories from ACT clutches and never with CFDF. do a search on dsmtuners.com and dsmtalk.com about what im talking about. you will see what i mean.

VWFREFF
07-31-2005, 04:02 PM
go with the act 2100 it is more than you will need in a fwd with those mods, and if john shepherd can trust act in the world's fastest dsm, then i think you can trust them too. i have an awd so i have the 2600 which requires a slightly strong leg. but the 2100 is great for a fwd.

The Hedgehog
07-31-2005, 04:17 PM
I had the 2600 and that was the best option, In traffic it sucked balls but other than that i loved it...It finally went out after Daily driving for more than a Year and A Half....Mine is FWD btw....When it went out i was on the sunday cruise, upped the boost stomped it, the RPM's went up, and the car went like nowhere...ghey....but other than that i loved that clutch cause i could beat the shit out of it...

FastEclipseGSXT
08-01-2005, 11:35 AM
This man has his head screwed on straight. We all know that there are 7 bolts that make 400 whp without crankwalking. But would the owner rather spread word that he's made 400whp, or that he's crankwalked? Power isn't even the issue here, but it illustrates my point.

4drwhore can post whatever the hell he wants, because he and I obviously don't agree on a lot of things. But I am going to be the voice of reason for the threadstarter and whoever else reads this, warning them that ACT 2600s or clutches with heavier pressure plates are notorious for inducing crankwalk. Do a search on whatever DSM site you choose, and you will come up with all kinds of horror stories. Every 2g with the faulty crankshaft/bearings/oil squirters, whatever you attribute it to, has the potential to crankwalk. Don't give it a reason to with a heavier clutch than you need.

I will not disagree that a 2100 would probably be sufficient considering his mods list and the daily drivability factor. But in my opinion the 2100 is a very conservative clutch. I would also like to note that material of the disk has a big factor in slippage. ACT has interchangeable disks (street or race) to suit your goals. Most clutches are the organic material which is good for longevity and smooth engagement (less chatter). Yet they can burn up relatively easily if your ride the clutch a lot. The more aggressive disks are usually designed in a 3/4/6 puck style with a more abrasive material (brass, ceramic, etc.) and will start to eat the pressure plate and flywheel. For now I would buy the cheapest one you can find until you decide to go all out.
Nothing personal but I will agree with 4drwhore that 2600’s are not a proven cause of crank walk. I have seen the threads and Advanced Clutch Technology has more clutches on the road than any other clutch.
Here is a pic of my 2600 pushing atleast 30k miles although I recently swapped out the street disk for the 6puck.

IMO, anyone that has NOT disconnected their clutch switch is CRAZY! that is the easiest solution I can reason for crank walk...