View Full Version : once again serious help is needed
Philly Blunt
06-04-2005, 09:18 PM
ok i was on my way to tampa today and i was driving normal on the veterans then i look down at the temp gauge and it is on red so we pull over found out its a bad radiator cap and was leaking coolant everywhere, so we got a new cap so on the way home it was doing ok then it over heated again pull over again now one of the small coolant hoses had a leak so we got a new one drives good for a while then on the road by my house it was on hott again but this time there are no leaks anywhere and fluid is full, there is no white smoke out the exhaust or anything like that so headgasket is ok, but i think it is either water pump wich im not sure of because coolant still flows thru but maybe bad radiater? how can i check for that?,i also have one more solution we just installed the fmic wich required that we take off the a/c fan and i havent got a slim fan yet to take the place of it, could the fmic be restricting the flow to the radiator without the other fan its not getting cool enough?
im so lost right now and this car is giving me one problem after another please help
Philly Blunt
06-04-2005, 10:59 PM
one more idea is maybe that when the coolant ran sooo low that there is air in the line because the upper radiator hose has alot of pressure in it and when the cap is off it just bubbles out coolant leaks everywhere.......also thermostat is not it
25psi
06-05-2005, 12:17 AM
one more idea is maybe that when the coolant ran sooo low that there is air in the line because the upper radiator hose has alot of pressure in it and when the cap is off it just bubbles out coolant leaks everywhere.......also thermostat is not it
Air in the lines will do it. With the car cold jack the front of the car and and run it with the radiator cap off until it's fully warmed up, the air bubbles should be out. You may have to add some more water/coolant afterwards.
Philly Blunt
06-05-2005, 02:54 AM
Air in the lines will do it. With the car cold jack the front of the car and and run it with the radiator cap off until it's fully warmed up, the air bubbles should be out. You may have to add some more water/coolant afterwards.
yea i drove home with the heat on and it did ok but as soon as i pulled in it was hot again but ill see tomm
is it normal for when the car is running with the cap off to just like run out like a spout? it dosent shoot put it poures out
Philly Blunt
06-05-2005, 03:46 PM
anyone know?
DEATH ZEPPELIN
06-05-2005, 04:49 PM
Correct me if im wrong, but usually when the coolant is being pushed out, it is because of air being trapped and trying to escape...i may be wrong.
Philly Blunt
06-05-2005, 07:27 PM
ok i bought a new thermostat and a slim fan so i hope it stays cooler now
Philly Blunt
06-06-2005, 01:36 AM
ok once again the car was on hot i put the new thermostat in and slim fan the gauge is weird it will stay at middle then jump to hott then go back down i have no clue whats going on im going to do a full flush tommorow and i pray it fixes this problem
Jordan Y.
06-06-2005, 01:42 AM
Use one of those flush kits that hooks a heater hose up to your garden hose to flush all the bubbles out.
Philly Blunt
06-06-2005, 01:52 AM
how much do shops cost to do this? because i think the price of the kit and all the fluids will be about the same as a flush from a shop
DEATH ZEPPELIN
06-06-2005, 05:16 AM
usually they run 49+, but after the flush, i let it still sit there and idle the bubbles out, the flushing usually still traps air in the system
BoosTb4BroaDs
06-06-2005, 01:46 PM
if your temp needle is jumping from middle to hot to cool in a matter of a few minutes, the sender unit could be dead, cost 18 bucks at napa. On my very first dsm my temp gauge looked like a tach sometimes, worth a shot.
Jordan Y.
06-06-2005, 03:56 PM
usually they run 49+, but after the flush, i let it still sit there and idle the bubbles out, the flushing usually still traps air in the system
Not the way I do it. I hook the hose up to the flush tee, which is hooked into a heater hose that comes in underneath the thermostat- this is important, it has to be a hose that feeds directly into the block without being blocked by the thermostat. Then I open up the radiator drain cock and turn on the hose full blast, then turn on the engine. Then I just let it run for however long it takes for the fluid to look clean, and I just shut off the drain cock and turn off the hose. I pop the thermostat and suck out some water with a turkey baster, just enough to dump a bottle of water wetter in there to prevent corrosion, and done.
DEATH ZEPPELIN
06-06-2005, 04:09 PM
I never used it with a heater hose before, the systems I use at the shop, you have to use the upper radiator hose to flush, thats why I said that. But your way seems like it works alot better.
Derka
06-06-2005, 05:03 PM
UPDATE : i took the car today, and ran a pressure test, the cooling system wouldnt hold pressure, i put it up to 15psi, and it feel to 3 or less, very quickly, like 30 seconds. But there is no leaks. But there wasnt any coolant, im pretty sure its a very minor crack in the headgasket, But im a honda driver and dont know shit so dont hold my name to it. Thanks. Good luck phill
Philly Blunt
06-10-2005, 03:16 AM
just for reference for people that have the same problem and do a search the headgasket was cracked pushing exhaust into the coolant chambers
vBulletin® v3.6.10, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by
vBSEO 3.2.0 RC5