1st gen neon setup

[neondriver]

anyone know how people are routing the pipes for an turbo kit on a 1st gen neon. i installed my intercooler to try and fab up some pipes out of pvc so i can have them sent out and get a copy in aluminum(mild steel), and it sucks. alot of people go under the motor but i cant because of the mount that connects the tranny to block is in the way and if i go under it the pipe would be to close to the ground.i already put the battery in the trunk for more room, but the engine bay has no free space.i basically found how to go from the throttle body to intercooler but getting something made to go from the turbo to intercooler.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/285000-285999/285867_289_full.jpg

[Skittle]

Hybrid Performance
Coastal Dyno

[neondriver]

i take it they make custome stuff?its such a pain in the ass, looking at honda's having the exhaust manifold towards the front of the car makes it alot easier. the hardest and crappyest part is my intake manifold goes across and then up so i need a "U" going down immediately. Being the srt turbo manifold fits right on with a little porting i wounder if the intake mani would fit? anyone know.

[Josiah]

I routed mine under the engine, the bobble strut doesnt get in the way like it would seem(I am assuming your using a mtx?) I ran it from turbo, under tranny, 90 toward the passengers side, 180 into the FMIC 180 out, 90 up toward the hood in front of the battery and one final 180 to get it into the TB, its a pain, but I intend to cut it down a bit if possible with my next revision when I do it in aluminum

[neondriver]

i made this mock up from extra things laying around and it seemes to work.sadly for now as much as i hate to say it but i have an ATX( I know it sucks and isnt fast), but luckly swaps are common and not too hard so im positive that it will happen in the future.but anyway because its an atx the tranny is huge compared to an mtx and makes i alot harder.but like Josiah said it what i see alot of people doing, it just doesnt look like it would work. the front motor mount is in the way,it comes before the bracket inbetween the tranny and block.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/285000-285999/285867_272_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/285000-285999/285867_271_full.jpg

[Josiah]

I have a 2.4 swap as well, so its not quite the same(most of my engine to tranny supports are no longer there), but the front MM isnt a problem on any of them, really, its the rear bobble strut that comes closest to getting in the way(I imagine with an atx its even worse) and the oil pan is also different on a 2.4(there is a perfect place to run a pipe to the front, a small indentation that one of my non existant braces is supposed to cover) I spent all my money on building and swapping in a 2.4, the only mod I ever did to the 2.0 was 3.0L caravan intake(which I am still using on the turbo 2.4 for another week anyway, useful piece, that)

[neondriver]

hay, you can kinda see the end of my 3.0 caravan intake that i used for mine, it is very useful especally for $15 at a junk yard, it is basically the same intake as the over $200 iceman intake.but a 2.4 is a little different but not really a major change in the layout for pipes.

[Josiah]

yep, wont be able to use it anymore after I install the MS though, need metal piping to tap the IAT GM sensor into, not to mention I have a spare intake I cut the wortless 90 out of, gonna miss my old 3.0L intake....cost me like $8 at cophers

[neondriver]

who did your 2.4 swap, ive been looking at 2.4 and using srt internals. i see the 2.4 motor mount kits online it seems it cant be too hard seeing how many people do it.id like to save my money and swap motor and tranny at the same time,but ive heard that 2.4' have alot of torque and the auto's work well with them.

[Josiah]

I did all the work on my car, building, swapping, turbocharging...the swap itself is pretty easy, as far as swaps go...it was still 3 straight days of work the first time I pulled the motor though, I think if I am going to drive a car, I should know it inside and out...therefore no one else does work on my car...except to help when they feel like it

[neondriver]

i feel the same ive done absoutley everything myself except change the headgasket and replace the tranny which the dealership did under warrantee for free. doesnt the 2.4 have basically the same connections as a 2.0(coolant, electrical,...) this kit took me forever to get everything but its basically complete and ready to install except pipes and a fitting in the oil pan for a return. im not extremely mechanical and dont really know 100% about mechanics but ive done a shitload of research on turbo's and am confident i can get this all done. i would need major help doing a motor swap i have any tool necessary but the mounts would be the hardest for me i think. what block are you using?

[Josiah]

I am using a 96 chrysler sebring block with SRT4 water pump, oil pump, oil pan, wiseco 8.5:1 pistons and t2 rods, ported and polished head w/ three angle valve job w/ stainless steel valves and crane #14s, hahn 20g turbo....a waste at the low 6psi I am running till I install the megasquirt this weekend, as far as the engine swap itself...it was easier than turbocharging the car...just hard to do by yourself, but yeah, the wiring is the same virtually(pre 2002 block) and the cooling, I still use stock upper and a trimmed lower radiator hose meant for my original DOHC 2.0, if you ever go 2.4 let me know I'll help you out, might as well swap to a 5 speed tranny at the same time, I always suggest engine building first though if you plan to get serious with the turbo...my block is built for 500+ HP, though right now I am running just a little over 200, after all, this is my daily driver and I have to upgrade from my base running turbo setup slowly

[neondriver]

yah mine is a daily driver and i dont want anything crazy just something to have some fun. a mild built 2.4 turbo is what i would want, until i get another vehicle on the road i cant really start major work on my car.

[Josiah]

heh, my 2.0L timing belt broke and made me jump into the 3 day engine swap(8.5:1 compression on a car that does not yet have a turbo is not much fun, although the torque still shot up like 30ft lbs with just the 2.4 swap and I know I didnt lose any power ith all the other mods to the engine, it really woke up when turbocharged a few weeks later though

[AlanSOHCtampa]

Give me a call and I can assist.

-Alan
(813)416-8640

[FLNeonRT]

Give me a call and I can assist.

-Alan
(813)416-8640

+1, Alan knows his shit. Hes built a couple 1st Gen. turbo set-ups. He can answer your routing questions and any others you may have.

[neondriver]

well, i ended up getting it painted first so i took a break on the turbo until i save the rest up for pipes/tuneing. tell me if all this sounds good

fuel
-venom pump with fpr by-passed and made for return
-stock fuel suply line for return
-chilfactory rrfpr
- 24lb mustang injectors w/ pigtail
-100psi fuel pressure gauge afer rrfpr
-steel braided line to connect valve on fuel rail to rrfpr
-mich hose to run from rrfpr to return line and, hose to connect return line to gas tank

i have the entire srt-4 turbo setup and am getting rid of my muffler to weld a srt rear section on. i also have an aobe, and srt-4 intake pipe which leaves the filter in the location where the battery is.
-just to check i run a line from my intake mani to rrfpr?, then put a line from the barb on turbo to wastegate and install a boost controller in-line on that line? then does the 2nd barb go to the boost gauge?

i only have 1 week of school then i have alot of free time to begin working on some things

[Josiah]

the line from the wastegate on the turbo needs a vacuum signal either from the barb on the turbo inlet or the intake manifold(your choice, this is the boost controller line) another line from the intake to the BOV that your using, another line from the intake to the boost gauge, and a final one from the intake to the CF RRFPR(some of these things can be run off the same signal line, but I always reccomend a seperate line for everything except maybe the boost gauge) hit me up too thogh if you need help on anything, been there done that and hate the RRFPR/AOBE setup...it works but its not my cp of tea, its why my fuel is now controlled with a MegaSquirt....belive me, its not much more in cost and its a hell of a lot better(the wideband and laptop drive the cost up though, but if your planning on a wideband anyway....a laptop thats good enough can be had for $120 shipped on ebay)

[grindpunk16]

if you can find a srt hot pipe use it! it will save you so much time

[Josiah]

only if your using an SRT4 intercooler, wouldnt help too much with mine, but my I/C piping is convoluted, I really need to redo it....may switch to an SRT I/C as well just for ease(and so I can put my fog lights back in)

[neondriver]

yah, all the connections are going to be a mess of tubeing, the hot pipes are hard to find, ive been looking forever and when i finally found one someone offered the guy $175 for it and i wasnt going to pay that much. i have a newer lap top computer that i never use so lucklu i dont need to buy one, but what wideband do you suggest?

[Josiah]

the LC1 is a nice wideband at $200 its the cheapest non DIY one around(pretty much a barebones wideband o2 sensor with controller, perfect for the MS or any other standalone)

[neondriver]

well im just looking for something simple so i can have a bung installed on the turbo mani and have an accurate a/f gauge, the autometer says stioch then lean under hard acceleration, duh i can tell that with out a gauge. it would be cool to plug one into my laptop to run diagnostics of the system but i just need to find a good basic wideband that wont cost more than the turbo kit itself.

[Josiah]

lol, the lc1 is the one you want(with sensor its 200, without its 150)

[GsEclipse02]

hey not sure i dont have the time to read the full post but i have a greddy 24 intercooler and a rfl bov with all piping for sale ...pm me for details

[neondriver]

hey not sure i dont have the time to read the full post but i have a greddy 24 intercooler and a rfl bov with all piping for sale ...pm me for details

no thanks i have an intercooler and bov, but what pipes do you have? and also on your sig it says you have an alpine typr r for sale, do you still have it?and how much

[Josiah]

he has eclipse parts...wont easily fit the neon, not exactly sure why hes posting here...but the pipes for sure wont fit...I'm going to redo my pipes fairly soon an you can have have my old ones when I finish which you should be able to adapt to your setup

[neondriver]

he has eclipse parts...wont easily fit the neon, not exactly sure why hes posting here...but the pipes for sure wont fit...I'm going to redo my pipes fairly soon an you can have have my old ones when I finish which you should be able to adapt to your setup

i dont know either but if you redo your pipes and give me the old ones that would be a huge help im sure they would adapt with minor fabrication to them.

[Josiah]

yeah...but I am using johnny racecar I/C and with my current setup my fog lights are gone, but if want the pipes, they are yours in about a month or so

[neondriver]

thats cool im also using a johny racecar i/c and i have a xenon front bumper so it should work good. just let me know when you want to get rid of them. do you have any pictures of your setup?

[Josiah]

nope...I may spend $5000 on my engine...but I'm too cheap to buy a digital camera....have some undeveloped pictures of the engine build...thats about it

[GsEclipse02]

there both 420a motors so i thought i would try .... i want to get rid of my down pipe manifold and intercooler piping give me a decent offer on the sub and it will be yours...

[Josiah]

actually the neon is not a 420a motor....similar but not the same,

[neondriver]

D4RE Correct?

[Josiah]

some weird ass code, I know my 2.4 is a KZE...if I remember correctly, the neon is D4RE for DOHC 2.0 and S4RE for SOHC

[neondriver]

whenever you redo the pipes let me know and ill take the old ones, ive been seeing people using the srt intercooler but i didnt want to cut up my car.i finally got my car from the paint shop and put in a new system so now im focused on the turbo kit, i spent a little time puting together some of the fuel items.
how do you think these look?
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/285000-285999/285867_304_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/285000-285999/285867_306_full.jpg
i have a braided line going from the fuel rail to rrfpr and then a rubber line going into a 100psi gauge then finally into a stock fed line that i got from the junkyard to use as my return line, i still need to install the mustang 24lb injectors. than when everything is ready i will add my gastank with a venom pump, hopefully when that is all done the turbo instal will begin.

[Josiah]

looks pretty much like my seteup, but I use a MegaSquirt rather than the cartech for fuel control...used to have the chill factory unit...worked great but I got scared by the fuel pressure I would need to run 25psi, swapped to an aermotive 1:1, but I'm using a stock feed line for return as well, 4an from fuel rail to aeromotive, then 4an hose barb to fuel injection line running back to the return line. I like the johnny racecar I/C but want to shorten my piping a bit(and redo it out of aluminum if I can)

[cali]

What fuel pressure are u running? I have been told those quick connects are SAFELY rated for 75PSI....above that user beware.

[Josiah]

i was running 80+ on mine...but mine was just clamped onto the return line with a fuel hose clamp...not that I run that high anymore, I didnt like insane fuel pressures, which is why I got the megasquirt

[cali]

neither me...thats part of the reason why I ran away from a rtn line

[Josiah]

heh, I have both a return line and reasonable(50psi) fuel pressure, neondriver...your car was the one up at quaker steak the last tampa/clearwater meet with the wildly painted xenon kit right? mine was the teal sport coupe(at that time it still had the 2.0L motor though, its come a long way since)

[neondriver]

yah that was me at the meeting, it doesnt look like that anymore at all. but i hope the clamps are enough if not i would add 2 to each side, i will probally end up getting better lines but for now to get things working this is what i am going to use. i still need another day of work and a few days off my job to get the fuel system completed. i believe the base pressure to set at is 40psi, then it raises from there with boost

[grindpunk16]

heh, I have both a return line and reasonable(50psi) fuel pressure, neondriver...your car was the one up at quaker steak the last tampa/clearwater meet with the wildly painted xenon kit right? mine was the teal sport coupe(at that time it still had the 2.0L motor though, its come a long way since)

damn that was you. I had always wondered if i met you before. I had the black 03 sxt with the dis and crap. the :asshole: who lead everyone around st pete and forgot to stop at the lights for everyone lol

[Josiah]

heh, except for the fact I went home early due to lack of money(it was all tied up in the beast sitting under the hood, or soon to be beast anyway) I remember the DIS and wondering about it, did you go to the mini statewide meet? dont remember seeing your car up there

[grindpunk16]

car was down. I was having issues with the little monkey install and couldnt make it up. Oil leaks and whiney fmu. Now those are all fixed im thinkin of gettin a little get together started up.

[neondriver]

o-yah that was fun, i had no clue where i was following everyone. luckly that guy brice?? was infront of me and drove slow because of the rain.but that was the only car meeting i have been to in almost 2 years.

[grindpunk16]

well ill let you know when i get some time off and can make a couple calls. how did you like qsal or would you like it somewhere else like hooters/cruise or what?

[neondriver]

the qsal was ok.

[neondriver]

I am thinking about going ahead and installing the 24lb injectors soon, i know it is going to run righ but will it be safe to drive with. or should i just put in the fuel tank and run a rrfpr with out a boost signal line?

[Josiah]

you can put it in, and drive around rich, but its wasteful of gas, go ahead and install the RRFPR, you can set the base pressure somewhat lower and be fine...with 36lbers my base pressure was 20psi when I was still running a RRFPR setup...24lbers should be around 40psi or so on a guess

[neondriver]

update: i just found a hot pipe off a srt that im getting i found wih some mod it can fit on. i still need a few more pipes and hopefully before mid august it will be done

[Josiah]

cool, just so you know, you can always use radiator hose temporarily(I use it as couplers actually, works great, but you can use longer pieces as well for low boost(12psi or less) piping) yeah, I am currently rebuilding my SRT block to throw in the 98, and when I get an SRT I/C to go with it I'll be finished with my current I/C piping

[neondriver]

im digging up the grave, but do i have it correct? i think i switched it around. shouldnt the gauge go before the rrfpr? because brfore it is what the pressure actually is at the fuel rail. and will the clamps be fine on the return side or should i get another steel braided line? but thanks josiah for all the pipes, aparently your setup was a bit different than my car is and i had to do a bit of cutting but all the pipes will work. i finally recieved the srt hard hot pipe and it seems i need to remove the tranny brace for room.

[neondriver]

im dogging up the grave, but do i have it correct? i think i switched it around. shouldnt the gauge go before the rrfpr? because brfore it is what the pressure actually is at the fuel rail. and will the clamps be fine on the return side or should i get another steel braided line? thanks

[Josiah]

thats right, i forgot you had a 2.0...with my 2.4 I am used to having no tranny braces, as far as the gauge going before the RRFPR, yes that correct, at least thats how I had it set up anyway...since it would give an accurate reading afterwards, I personally use clamps for the return line since there is much less pressure on that side...never had a leak or a problem yet...of course SS is better all around obviously, but fuel injection hose and fuel clamps work

[neondriver]

does this look good? seems in my price range and comes with a gauge.
CLICK (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4568864208&fromMakeTrack=true)

[Josiah]

thats the unit....only $90 more than it should be

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php

$200 from the manufacturer, a gauge is going to be like $30....any A/F ratio gauge will work correctly when hooked to a wideband, unlike a narrowband

[Fast420A]

Just click this link and then click Go to check out.

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