View Full Version : slick guys, tire pressure?
bitemark46
09-05-2004, 02:04 PM
It's been awhile since I've used slicks. This battle of the clubs I'll be on 26x10's. On my bfg's I went down to 12psi. Where should I start? With my BFG's my launch rpm was around 5300. With these slicks it'll be between 6000-7100rpm. Thanks. -Mark
InsaneCivicCoupe
09-05-2004, 02:16 PM
what kind of slicks are you using??? I would say start at 10psi cold and do a nice big burnout to warm them up, then after that run check pressure because Im sure it will raise.... Keep them around 12psi warm, and then see how she does.... You can always take more pressure out, you just dont wanna take too much out from the start, and bog and mess up a driveshaft or something... Just drop it a little if it doesnt hook right, and then once you get it where you want it, stay there....
As a side note, if you take out too much pressure, dont put more air in..... Just launch higher :D
bitemark46
09-05-2004, 03:27 PM
Their MT 26x10. I think the compound is m5. Trust me the driveshaft or rear won't break. I made sure it could with stand hard launches when I built it. Now the tranny on the other hand is another story. :D -Mark
Scott
09-05-2004, 06:12 PM
Start at 13 and see how that does. Anything less and you could bang the rim off of the ground or roll the tire under.
BigBadBuick
09-06-2004, 01:13 PM
Don't listen to the FWD guys, they run them flat :grin: Remember you will sway more up top the lower the pressure is. I run the Buick at 12-14 and it sways a little, but it weighs more than your car too. I don't see any reason to go down as low as 10 however :wink:
Billy
09-07-2004, 11:53 AM
If you've got the time to test it out I'd start somewhere around the 15lbs mark and seen what it does. Then adjust from there. I've seen bigger, heavier cars that come out really damn hard run 11-12psi on the street and dead hook, I doubt you'll need to get that low with your car at the track.
Matt Vassallo
09-08-2004, 12:22 AM
my 2800 lb car with 26 inch slicks loved 15psi.
1.6 60's consistent enough to break the differential.
bad a** 69
09-08-2004, 12:23 AM
i have 29.5X10.5 mt on my car and it does best at about 10.5 psi
Strokd85
09-08-2004, 09:45 AM
start with 12-13 and adjust from there.. I run at about 11-11.5 on my 28x10.5
TheShow50h
09-08-2004, 04:48 PM
Originally posted by BigBadBuick
Don't listen to the FWD guys, they run them flat :grin: Remember you will sway more up top the lower the pressure is. I run the Buick at 12-14 and it sways a little, but it weighs more than your car too. I don't see any reason to go down as low as 10 however :wink:
You should have felt my car at sunshine on like 9-10 psi .. the backend probably had 6-8inches of lateral movement.
bitemark46
09-10-2004, 11:48 AM
Ok thanks guys. I think I'll start at 14psi and go down from there. I think my car will hook since it does on DR's. I just want less rolling resistance on the top end. Hopefully I can get some 1.5's w/ the measly power I'm making. I used to do a John Force style burnout w/ my BFG's but I heard for slicks you don't really need to smoke them that bad do you? -Mark
Scott
09-10-2004, 06:35 PM
I did not even back up in the water box or spin mine over a few weeks ago when I ran some low 1.4 60 ft times. Dry hop them one time to knock off the sand and then let er rip !
Strokd85
09-10-2004, 08:32 PM
Originally posted by Scott
I did not even back up in the water box or spin mine over a few weeks ago when I ran some low 1.4 60 ft times. Dry hop them one time to knock off the sand and then let er rip !
A lot of that will depend on the track prep too.. If I tried that I'd go up in smoke like cheech and chong..
It really comes down to what works best for your car, you just have to experiment.
alternativeauto
09-12-2004, 03:13 AM
To do it properly, use a tread depth Micrometer and keep track til you get a pressure that results in a full contact of tire surface.
jjtproperty
09-13-2004, 05:32 PM
Ignore the asshole (Scott) who told you to dry hop. The first bite your tires take is going to be the best!:D :D :D
BigBadBuick
09-15-2004, 11:41 AM
Originally posted by alternativeauto
To do it properly, use a tread depth Micrometer and keep track til you get a pressure that results in a full contact of tire surface.
Tread depth? We are talking about slicks here. You are right about looking for complete contact though. Assuming the rims are the right width for the tire (meaning the rims themselves don't cause the tire to bow out) you can check this by getting the tires wet and driving them a short distance on dry pavement (I've done it in the driveway) start high and slowly get the air pressure to where the complete width of the tire leaves a mark, use that as a starting point at the track. Every car is going to be different because of weight, but if you are running a 26" x 10" on a 7" wheel, you will never get the entire tire to touch without running it flat.
bitemark46
09-15-2004, 12:47 PM
Originally posted by BigBadBuick
Tread depth? We are talking about slicks here. You are right about looking for complete contact though. Assuming the rims are the right width for the tire (meaning the rims themselves don't cause the tire to bow out) you can check this by getting the tires wet and driving them a short distance on dry pavement (I've done it in the driveway) start high and slowly get the air pressure to where the complete width of the tire leaves a mark, use that as a starting point at the track. Every car is going to be different because of weight, but if you are running a 26" x 10" on a 7" wheel, you will never get the entire tire to touch without running it flat.
The rims are 15x8.5 so I don't think I'm bowing the tire. I'm wanna try to get the car to hook with as much air as possible.
-Mark
BigBadBuick
09-15-2004, 12:53 PM
Originally posted by bitemark46
The rims are 15x8.5 so I don't think I'm bowing the tire. I'm wanna try to get the car to hook with as much air as possible.
-Mark
You should be OK, and you're right in wanting to hook with as much air as possible, keeps you from having a white knuckle death grip on the big end as you start to saw back and forth with the sway :lol: If you get a chance, try what I said with the water on smooth pavement, it should give you a good starting point. Sorry I didn't say it earlier, I was caught off guard by the 10 psi comment :lol:
Scott
09-15-2004, 01:34 PM
Originally posted by jjtproperty
Ignore the asshole (Scott) who told you to dry hop. The first bite your tires take is going to be the best!:D :D :D
The best bite after a burnout is the next one so that is when you do not dry hop. When the tires are not heated you dry hop them once to knock off the sand and go. Only have been down the track at least 500 times or so.
So check yourself with the comments.
Mark run 14-13 pounds and see how it goes from there. If it hooks good then bump up another 1/2 pound until it starts to spin. And remember Mustangs like a little spin so that is something to think about too.
Make sure to get a very good tire pressure gauge and keep the tires out of direct sunlight if possible. Also know the on the first run you might want to start with one less pound than what you intend to run becuase they are going to gain a pound after the first burnout.
BigBadBuick
09-15-2004, 01:54 PM
Originally posted by Scott
When the tires are not heated you dry hop them once to knock off the sand and go.
So you leave your sand there for the next guy to pick up? Jeez, thanks Scott :lol: I would say alway do a water burn out with slicks, it doesn't have to be a John Force style smoke show, but it's easier on your drivetrain than a dry hop, and you'll know for sure your tires are clean and warm, just stay away from the dirt Scott just put down :lol:
alternativeauto
09-15-2004, 02:49 PM
Back to my idea, most slicks have small holes in them to detemine wear. These are the holes you use to measure tread depth. I don't understand how getting your tires wet and driving down the driveway is going to determine correct contact patch. When you launch, the tire expands changing the contact patch of the tire, pulling up and down the driveway with a waterhose in hand cannot duplicate dragstrip launching conditions. If you are consistant and check the change in tread depth after every pass, it is very easy to determine whether or not you are using too much or too little air. Once you have acheived a even patch if you are still spinning then you might want to consider a different compound or larger slicks.
TheShow50h
09-15-2004, 04:15 PM
Originally posted by BigBadBuick
it doesn't have to be a John Force style smoke show
I have to sit there for 15+ seconds to get them really smokin, but I'm definately in it for the smoke show. :D
Scott
09-15-2004, 04:51 PM
Originally posted by BigBadBuick
So you leave your sand there for the next guy to pick up? Jeez, thanks Scott :lol: I would say alway do a water burn out with slicks, it doesn't have to be a John Force style smoke show, but it's easier on your drivetrain than a dry hop, and you'll know for sure your tires are clean and warm, just stay away from the dirt Scott just put down :lol:
I am not off roading with the damn things, geeeeze ! You pick up the sand from just driving through the pits and return road. On a hot day when the ground is already 120+ degrees I see no use in burning out. If I can get 1.41 60ft. times doing this way let me know if you have something that nets you better times. :D And I will beg to differ on what is harder on the car. 10-15 seconds in a waterbox vs. one slap of the throttle ? Hmmmm
The knocking off the sand part came as a suggestion from the track manager (Wade) many years ago. And I find him to be far more credible than any of us since he is the man that preps the track surface. But you guys do want you want I know nothing.
jjtproperty
09-15-2004, 06:50 PM
After I made the post I saw that you didn't do a burnout. Sorry, my mistake!:( :(
TheShow50h
09-15-2004, 08:32 PM
Originally posted by Scott
I know nothing.
That's sig material right there. :)
A 2nd gear burnout slightly slipping the clutch from about 3k rpms to get the tires going doesn't seem it would be bad on the drivetrain at all.
Strokd85
09-15-2004, 08:35 PM
one slap on the throttle with a dry slick will be a lot rougher on the drivetrain than doing a burnout after initially getting the slicks wet.
Also, if the track temp is high, you will want to make sure that your slick is up to operating temperature so it will work properly, as with the track that hot it'll be greasy. With a hot track you're adjusting your power coming out of the hole, suspension, etc. If the track is hot, the prep of it will have less affect than what you do to adjust for a greasy track...
IMHO I would only dry hop if you're using a radial tire (not Drag Radial) as proceeding to do a burnout with them will only make them greasy...
Just my .02
BigBadBuick
09-16-2004, 09:31 AM
Originally posted by alternativeauto
Back to my idea, most slicks have small holes in them to detemine wear. These are the holes you use to measure tread depth. I don't understand how getting your tires wet and driving down the driveway is going to determine correct contact patch. When you launch, the tire expands changing the contact patch of the tire, pulling up and down the driveway with a waterhose in hand cannot duplicate dragstrip launching conditions. If you are consistant and check the change in tread depth after every pass, it is very easy to determine whether or not you are using too much or too little air. Once you have acheived a even patch if you are still spinning then you might want to consider a different compound or larger slicks.
This is why I hate trying to help anyone in here, somebody always knows everything :roll: If there is too much air in the tires, they will leave a mark skinnier than the actual tread of the tire. In other words, if a 26 x 10 tire is leaving a 5 inch wide mark, you should probably take it down some, unless, as mentioned, the rim is too narrow for the tire, then it will never sit right. Once you get them to where they are leaving a mark the entire width of the tread (or as close as they will get with the rim you are using), that is a good starting point, and you can adjust down from there until you get a good bite. All I was talking about was a starting point, no tread depth guage is going to tell you what pressure to run. In all honesty, you are probably not going to be riding on the entire width of the tire once they start expanding at higher speeds anyway. One does not need to actually measure tread depth, one glance at the tire, and you can see the wear pattern, we're not talking 60,000 mile radials here :tard:
BigBadBuick
09-16-2004, 09:45 AM
Originally posted by Scott
I am not off roading with the damn things, geeeeze ! You pick up the sand from just driving through the pits and return road. On a hot day when the ground is already 120+ degrees I see no use in burning out. If I can get 1.41 60ft. times doing this way let me know if you have something that nets you better times. :D And I will beg to differ on what is harder on the car. 10-15 seconds in a waterbox vs. one slap of the throttle ? Hmmmm
The knocking off the sand part came as a suggestion from the track manager (Wade) many years ago. And I find him to be far more credible than any of us since he is the man that preps the track surface. But you guys do want you want I know nothing.
I am so over trying to give advice and getting constant arguing. If a dry hop works for you, great, but I promise a mild burnout with wet tires (not in the water box :tard: ) is easier on your drivetrain. What do I know anyway, I'm just an idiot. What's your car weigh Scott? I guess a 1.61 ain't too shabby for a 4300 pound car with monroe sensatrac shocks and front sway bar, huh? I guess the next track day I better bring my micrometer to check my tread depth and stick to dry hops, God, I feel stupid after all these years....................
alternativeauto
09-16-2004, 10:02 AM
Your the one trying to argue man. I have grown up in a drag racing family that has been racing competitively for quite a few years in cars and full drag bikes. I spent many weekends at the track watching my crew and many others use this practice to determine what pressure to run on they're full slicks. This may not be your way and I am not saying your way is wrong, I am just simply sharing an idea that I have seen used by many semi-pro teams my father used to race with. Anyone can keep guessing all they want, but its should be simple to understand that if you are wearing the slick evenly then you are getting a better contact which should result in better traction. I'm not claiming to be completely right and a know it all, just sharing past experience.
BigBadBuick
09-16-2004, 10:06 AM
Originally posted by alternativeauto
Your the one trying to argue man. I have grown up in a drag racing family that has been racing competitively for quite a few years in cars and full drag bikes. I spent many weekends at the track watching my crew and many others use this practice to determine what pressure to run on they're full slicks. This may not be your way and I am not saying your way is wrong, I am just simply sharing an idea that I have seen used by many semi-pro teams my father used to race with. Anyone can keep guessing all they want, but its should be simple to understand that if you are wearing the slick evenly then you are getting a better contact which should result in better traction. I'm not claiming to be completely right and a know it all, just sharing past experience.
Sending PM.
BigBadBuick
09-16-2004, 11:19 AM
Originally posted by bigB
play nice ladies. :lol:
I'm playing nice, I'm just keeping my mouth shut from here on out. Helping people isn't worth the fight :lol:
bitemark46
09-16-2004, 01:35 PM
FWIW, every NMRA and FFW events I have been to, ALL the slick tired cars used the water box and did a burnout. And for those that don't know these are cars that ranged from 6 secs to 15. So I think I'm gonna follow suit.
BBB- Just give your advice that don't give your opinion to anyone else's advice. Believe me I look at the people giving advice and look at their cars to see if what they say works. (Ex. I'll take Derricks advice over some dude with a car that thinks 1.7's is a good 60ft on slicks. :lol:) But you gota be doing something right to yank the left front on that 4k+lb land yacht of yours. ;)
Thanks for all who chimed in. Hope to see eveyone on the 26th. -Mark
BigBadBuick
09-16-2004, 02:45 PM
Originally posted by bitemark46
BBB- Just give your advice that don't give your opinion to anyone else's advice.
I tried that before, still got arguements, now I just have fun with it :grin: It's funny, I tried to stay out of FFA and get more into the tech side of TR, but it seems there's just as much arguing. I guess I'm just too damned opinionated :lol:
Scott
09-16-2004, 02:54 PM
Originally posted by BigBadBuick
I am so over trying to give advice and getting constant arguing.
Funny thing is I was just talking about this the other day. I stated my method you stated yours then you decided to argue about it yet again, similar to other threads.
Need to learn how to not reply to what others are stating as their opinion and reply to the person asking the questions.
If your method works for you great ! Mine works for me. Most cars use the waterbox, I used it for years but I tried it without on a hot day and it worked better than ever. Personally I do not want to build heat in my turbo system and auto tranny sitting in the waterbox if I do not need to which was my reasoning for skipping the waterbox last time. The single (and very light) dryhop was at the suggestion of Wade at BMP after he watched my run. Make sense ?
P.S. I have the same exact shocks (Monroe) but I did a little trick with them to make them work even better at the track. ;)
Strokd85
09-16-2004, 06:40 PM
Originally posted by bitemark46
(Ex. I'll take Derricks advice over some dude with a car that thinks 1.7's is a good 60ft on slicks. :lol:) -Mark
Thanks I think? :D
Good luck on the 26th, let me know if I can help out with your progression...
Derek
BigBadBuick
09-16-2004, 08:47 PM
Originally posted by Scott
Need to learn how to not reply to what others are stating as their opinion and reply to the person asking the questions.
Scott, I tried that approach, then someone always follows with why I am wrong, then, of course, I reply :grin: Then it's over. Funny thing is, later on they end up taking my advice anyway :wink:
bitemark46
09-16-2004, 10:41 PM
Originally posted by Strokd85
Thanks I think? :D
Good luck on the 26th, let me know if I can help out with your progression...
Derek
:lol: That wasn't meant to be negative in anyway shape or form. I just compared you to someone in the analogy of the best vs the average or worst. Someday I'll carry the fronts like you... ;) it may be behind a tow truck but they'll be up nonetheless! :lol:
Strokd85
09-16-2004, 11:42 PM
You'll get it man, no worries there.
Shoot me a note if I can help out.
Derek
Originally posted by BigBadBuick
I I guess I'm just too damned opinionated :lol:
your just a dick face it.
BigBadBuick
09-17-2004, 07:39 PM
Originally posted by bigB
your just a dick face it.
That too :wink:
Originally posted by BigBadBuick
That too :wink:
me too
Scott
09-17-2004, 08:13 PM
Nah he is alright, he just likes his opinion and no one elses. :lol:
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