Intake piping and its importance.

[Sneakin Deacon]

alright, right now i have about 6' of hosing leading to the vortech...its all 3.25" but has a 180* and 2 90* bends in it...am i seeing any power loss due to this? i would think there to be atmospheric pressure drop between the filter and s/c...but not sure how that would all affect it..any help is greatly appreciated.

[0HP930]

Why so long and funky (180 degrees)?. My induction AND turbo plumbing on my 930 does not add up to that and a lot of it is 3" in diameter.

To answer your question, the secret of any plumbing being the least restrictive on flow is to keep it big, straight and short.

2 out of 3 ain't bad, but from what you are describing you only have diameter working for you.

[Cronic]

I don't believe you would see any power loss after the charge pipe is pressurized. So I guess you could have excess lag, which would shift your power band, but not give you much less power.

[Just Dave]

This isn't pressurized though, this is from the filter to the blower.

[Sneakin Deacon]

yea...reason its so long is i bought the kit used, and some of you know my little fender hole and i was just paranoid where vortech wants the filter to sit, would be right under that hole, and if it rained, i might do something i wouldnt like.

and i think jeff meant that since the air is being pressurized by the s/c that the engine is not losing any power...but you may be right with me losing boost...anyone else?

[0HP930]

It will slightly reduce the efficiency of the compressor to be compressing air to a certain pressure if the inlet is noticibly below atmospheric but while you will have some restriction with that setup it may not make a noticible difference.

I guess you will know for sure once you get it running.

[Sneakin Deacon]

it runs and everything....i guess im going to have to put the other piping on (just a 180* and about 2' of piping and its 3.5") and see if i pick up any better mph or anything at the track possibly.

[0HP930]

You could just build a simple water manometer and hook it up to the compressor inlet to determine exactly how much of a pressure drop it is producing.

[Just Dave]

While I think that would be the most accurate Tony, Kenny's idea of track testing would probably be easier and tell him any real world differences :dunno:

But do you care to explain how to make a cheap manometer :D

[0HP930]

Put a clear hose in a cup of water and see how much it rises when the pressure is applied to the end. The height of the water column directly converts to pressure.

[Just Dave]

Damn, very simple. I'll have to remember that. Thanks!

[0HP930]

Just wait till you see my home made flow bench. :D

You would be suprised what you can do with some old cardboard boxes, duct tape, a shop vac and some clear rubber tubing. :lol:

My head work has only just begun.

[Solar Specialist]

I wouldn't think it would matter very much like they already said. Simply because its before the MAF and blower, right? Theres no way to get pressure drop since the air wasn't pressurized at that point anyways, correct?

[Sneakin Deacon]

i have no maf...and the hardened pipe actually put me at 6/7psi...a little high for my tastes...im going to keep my ghetto rigging in and keep it around 5psi...if anyone questions this, look up the Brad Bran intake piping for a vortech LT1..its all hardened and they pick up a couple psi over the vortech piping aswell.

[Solar Specialist]

So what type of fuel management system are you running where you don't use a MAF? Carb or standalone? Sorry I'm not familiar with your setup.

[Sneakin Deacon]

speed density....uses intake air temperature, manifold pressure, and throttle position(i think)